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This morning I made Charcoal Liquid Soap with Tea Tree & Lavender. It turned out really well! I'm pretty excited about this batch! It so beautifully BLACK!

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Looks beautiful! 🥰 and I bet it smells great, too. I've made that recipe and just love it.

BTW, I have those same caps for my mason jars and love them. I only use the two piece metal ones if I'm actually canning something.
 
Looks beautiful! 🥰 and I bet it smells great, too. I've made that recipe and just love it.

BTW, I have those same caps for my mason jars and love them. I only use the two piece metal ones if I'm actually canning something.
And it was way easier than I anticipated. I watched the video and made a full sheet of notes. I've been washing my hands all afternoon just testing it and, like you, I love it. I'm trying to come up with a catchy name for it now.

Same here, re the caps. No more rusty lids.
 
I have those same caps for my mason jars and love them. I only use the two piece metal ones if I'm actually canning something.
Oh yes, that's a lovely soap.
I bet some of the bubbles go away and are replaced w creame after a couple weeks sequestration. That's what happened w my recent pt ls had bubbles on top just like that n turned into a lovely cream from 2% sf within a couple of days. I've got pics if u want to see em.

Idt my ls causes rust on the 2 piece metal jar lids. You must use more salt than me, or some alcohol.

I really like to hear my jars pop when i open them for the first time. That 'pop' is caused by a true negative pressure environment created by hot liquids cooling in hermetically sealed jar w the 2 piece lid ensures no bacteria or nothing can enter the jar until that seal has been broken. It extends their shelf life significantly to at least a couple of years with no degradation and the only preservatives I use are EOs before jarring at the 90-100 degrees heat sufficient to create 'pop'.


The owner of a packaging company explained to me once while selling us a packaging machine that this 'pop' is only possible with glass containers bc of glass' electrical neutrality and true hermetic seal, & since our packaging system used plastic the best we could do was vacuum seal it then inject some argon gas, a noble gas that didn't work out so great to be honest w you...

I like to always pour hot scented liquids into glass jars w 2 piece metal lids to create negative pressure, & then months later when I'm ready to actually use the product if it causes rust ill swap it out for the plastic one piece lids that are super convenient & pleasant to use at that point immediately after I got my 'pop'.
For the salted alcohol products that do cause rust, I can store the jars in 2 piece lids indefinitely almost without any rust. Just a little tiny bit. Most of rust occurs when the salt and alcohol get into jar threads.
To prevent rust during storage simply wipe down the jar threads w a paper towel or tp before sealing n storing the jar.The metal lid can't rust if the glass threads were wiped clean after pouring hot product into jar.
 
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Oh yes, that's a lovely soap.
I bet some of the bubbles go away and are replaced w creame after a couple weeks sequestration. That's what happened w my recent pt ls had bubbles on top just like that n turned into a lovely cream from 2% sf within a couple of days. I've got pics if u want to see em.

Idt my ls causes rust on the 2 piece metal jar lids. You must use more salt than me, or some alcohol.

I really like to hear my jars pop when i open them for the first time. That 'pop' is caused by a true negative pressure environment created by hot liquids cooling in hermetically sealed jar w the 2 piece lid ensures no bacteria or nothing can enter the jar until that seal has been broken. It extends their shelf life significantly to at least a couple of years with no degradation and the only preservatives I use are EOs before jarring at the 90-100 degrees heat sufficient to create 'pop'.


The owner of a packaging company explained to me once while selling us a packaging machine that this 'pop' is only possible with glass containers bc of glass' electrical neutrality and true hermetic seal, & since our packaging system used plastic the best we could do was vacuum seal it then inject some argon gas, a noble gas that didn't work out so great to be honest w you...

I like to always pour hot scented liquids into glass jars w 2 piece metal lids to create negative pressure, & then months later when I'm ready to actually use the product if it causes rust ill swap it out for the plastic one piece lids that are super convenient & pleasant to use at that point immediately after I got my 'pop'.
For the salted alcohol products that do cause rust, I can store the jars in 2 piece lids indefinitely almost without any rust. Just a little tiny bit. Most of rust occurs when the salt and alcohol get into jar threads.
To prevent rust during storage simply wipe down the jar threads w a paper towel or tp before sealing n storing the jar.The metal lid can't rust if the glass threads were wiped clean after pouring hot product into jar.
I love hearing the lids pop when the seal and when you release the seal but only when I'm canning. I only had the LS in the glass jar for cooling; it's now in pump bottles, ready for my first market of the season (my last post). The soap in the first post had just been poured; the foam on the top was gone by the next morning. :)
 
Do you think the book is worth buying? It seems quite expensive - $45!
I found it very worth my while to learn some of the science behind LS. Many oils behave very differently in LS than they do in bar soap. You have to formulate differently, and the calculator numbers (other than lye and water) really don’t work well for LS.

She also has some nice recipes in case you don’t want to get into the formulating and just want some go-to LS recipes to make.

There is a 15% off coupon available on the Walnut Creek Bath and Body YT channel; find her video on LS. Also, if you join their FB group, they used to have a standing 10% off coupon FACEBOOK10, but that’s been a few years so it might not work. You can also wait for a holiday; she always has holiday coupons, and the discounts are pretty good.
 
Do you think the book is worth buying? It seems quite expensive - $45!
Post #10
YouTube demo of UGLS -- use code WALNUTCREEK for 15% off - expires June 2023
It is just another way of making liquid soaps... there are many! So it's up to you to decide.

If you want to learn the basics, for FREE, go to Alaiyna B's Blogspot and click on Tutorials - Liquid Soap in the top menu.

The one book "worth buying" and having on your reference shelf
Making Natural Liquid Soap by Catherine Failor -- the "bible" that got the ball rolling way back in 2000. Although her process is passe´, the info contained is well worth the price. Check your local library or a used-book site in the UK like the one I linked to.
 
Do you think the book is worth buying? It seems quite expensive - $45!
I've found it to be worth it, yes. And that's $45 US; I'm Canadian. I've made several of her recipes now (I have LS enough to last me a lifetime). I've made the Alaiyna B LS and our own Irish Lass' liquid soap and I find the methods in this book far easier to follow and as @AliOop said, there's a lot of the science and background information included. It isn't just the recipes.

One of the things holding me back from making liquid soaps was the length of the process. I don't want to have to spend up to a week making a single batch of liquid soap. (That includes all the dilution time.)
 
While I totally support innovation in making liquid soap, I have to say, @Misschief and @Mobjack Bay and other members of SMF, I feel I've let you down.

Done correctly, it takes me all of 12-15 minutes to trace. At that point, you can either leave it to finish saponification as you would NaOH CP or HP it with whatever process you're comfortable with.

As far as time is concerned...
NaOH CP or HP generally takes 4-6 weeks to cure.
KOH CP or HP is ready to use as is (!) or after dilution.
NOTE: Dilution can be speeded up with the addition of the addition of Sodium Carbonate (Borax, Calgon) or Potassium Carbonate.

Carrie's Glycerin LS becomes soap in all of 2 minutes! (NOT recommended for Beginners due to the possiblity of scorching and toxic fumes if you don't know how to prevent that from happening.)

All natural LS really is as easy to make as hard soap. It just takes time and practice to learn the basics, i.e., no different than when first learning to make soap. To my mind at least. I learned to make LS in 2004 -- at the same time as I was perfecting the process of making hard soap.


2¢ Worth.gif
😁
 
That books kinda expensive but I want it. Ultimate Guide to Liquid Soap by Ashley Green seems to not be available on Amazon. Also I'm getting Making Natural Liquid Soap by Catherine Failor. Thus far I've only read one ls book by author JT that was very interesting but not exactly what I was seeking. Thanks, Zany.
 
That books kinda expensive but I want it. Ultimate Guide to Liquid Soap by Ashley Green seems to not be available on Amazon. Also I'm getting Making Natural Liquid Soap by Catherine Failor. Thus far I've only read one ls book by author JT that was very interesting but not exactly what I was seeking. Thanks, Zany.
I'm not a fan of Catherine Failor's books. I find them confusing, out-dated, and very lacking in scientific explanations about the "why" behind the "what" and "how."

In contrast, Ashlee's e-books provide a ton of scientific information, are easy to read, and come with the ability to email the author for clarification, additional information, etc.
 
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