Liquid natural syndet for wool wash/rinse

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Oct 27, 2020
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New Zealand
Hi everyone!
My name is Caroline and I am a total newbie here. I own a little company of hand dyed yarn, and recently decided that I wanted to develop additional products for wool care, and create a line of natural and neutral pH liquid detergent.
I first was looking at soap bar, and have talked here in a different thread about creating a lanolin soap bar. I will still look into this project, however after learning a little more I realised that I actually want to create two separate products, one being a hard lanolin soap bar to use on your woollens when they need to be cleaned of stains or else, with superfatting agent but mainly with enough surfactants to clean the wool, which would then be rinsed. I realised however that I also wanted a more 'day to day" product that would have less surfactants and cleaning agents, more of a conditioner, and that would be a "no-rinse conditioner"

My idea is to use the conditioning one when you want to refresh your knits or block them, and I want this product to be as pH neutral, and as gentle as possible on the knits whilst still having surfactants. After doing a little research, I have found these ingredients which I think could work for a recipe:

Sucrose cocoate:
– mild – increases foam density & viscosity – adds creaminess – has good re-fatting qualities – moisturising and anti-static – biodegradable, / 6.5, 7.5 pH, 65% active matter - foam collapse quickly, and turns milky in water - ( those are my notes on the product haha): I like the idea of a product that doesn't have too much suds and turns milky, so a low temperature cloud point non-ionic surfactant would be prefered.

Polysorbate 20
This was suggested in another recipe for wool wash as a fantastic way to get rid of grease etc and wondering if I could add some of that

I want this in both products, but definitely up to 20% present in the liquid syndet to bring back the softness of the wool // PEG 75 Lanolin is used in Eucalan, a similar product to what I want to recreate

Grape seed extract:
"You can also use GSE (Grape Seed Extract). It's sold in most Health Food Stores. It's a 100% Natural cleaner & antibacterial made from Grapefruit Seeds. Using the name-brand of "Nutribiotic". It cost about $12 or so for a small bottle, but it should last you quire some time cause you only need a little!'"
Thinking this could maybe work too?

Coco Betaine:
INCI: Cocamidopropyl Betaine // 29 -31% Active content // Cocamidopropyl Betaine is a mild co-surfactant compatible with anionic, non-ionic, cationic surfactants and also useful as a primary surfactant. It is an effective cleanser, foam booster and acts to increase the viscosity of the finished product. Cocamidopropyl Betaine is also an excellent conditioning and antistatic agent. It is a common ingredient in Shampoos, Conditioners, Bubble baths, Cleansing lotions and Hand soaps.
PureNature Cocamidopropyl Betaine is palm-free, derived from Coconut Oil.
Solubility: Water Soluble
Usage: 4-10%
pH: 4-12

Sorry my notes again, this would be an ideal surfactant given it's properties.

Castor oil:
I read many benefits of castor oil and already have some on hands. I want to create a product that is really nourishing for the wool, so I wanted to add more oils in addition to the lanolin. So instead of having 25% lanolin, I'd have 20% and another 5% of other oils such as castor oil, jojoba or avocado.

This is as far as I have gone into my research at this point, and now i'm kind of hitting a brick wall and feeling pretty overwhelmed not knowing in which directions to go next.
Are the products I selected good for what I want to create? Will they all be compatible? Do I need to add thickeners or other preservatives on top of this list for shelf duration? I haven't even dived into fragrance at this stage.
I'm also really unsure as to how to proceed once I acquire all products. There is many many recipes out there so it's hard to know what I should base my research on in terms of what amount to add for which products and how to blend them all together.
I would be super grateful for any guidance or tutorial to create a liquid syndet! Couldn't find too much on youtube which is usually where I go when I decide to learn a new craft.
Thank you!

Jojoba Oil - 11$