Liquid Castille

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well on the orange batch...

the oxides floated to the top. So there was an orange layer, with whiteish soap under neath. It was ...very gelatinous. I've tried pumping it out f a pump bottle, and it won't move. I spooned some into a tub to take to work to use in the bathroom there, and i'll stick a stick blender in it this evening (the rest) to see if I can get it to loosen up a bit.
 
And some more results...

a good beating loosened it up enough it can be pumped in the bottle and mixed in the oxides. (they were in grapeseed oil and glycerine btw)

The pine tar set nicely, needed another beating but loosened up and then (I"m sorry) looked like old snot.

It did however, form a lovely if a bit slimy cream - not very bubbly but its not very cured yet, so I"ll see how it develops. Its in tubs. I'm wondering if I need to add a preservative?

on the plus side, I used it for shaving, my entire body and oh yeah, the hair. (pine tar, not the orange )

It's still drying, but it feels very soft so far (teh fringe is dry. The rest not yet).

More later.
 
Deb. thanks for your reports.

How much do you superfat your pine tar soap?

I add glycerin and extra oil to my shampoo. I'm planning to liquify the pine tar bars soon. Mine are lard, EVOO, and 20% pine tar, at 5% SF.
 
5% superfat, and 20% of the total is pine tar.

And annoyingly, each and every jar has reset with the pectin.

Maybe agar-agar or gelatine? or more liquids, although in that case i'd be wanting to ad a germicide.
 
I'm sorry they're setting up firm. I tried a lard batch recently and it set up firm as well. I can use it, but not for what I had hoped.

My olive-castor bars stay liquid. I have used 89% olive and 11% castor at 5% SF. Also, 95% EVOO - 5% castor, 7% SF. Both soap bars work well. I cook them very slowly for 3 - 4 hours.

Am wondering if less pectin would make a difference.

I may try the pine tar. Mine is 20% pine tar and 5% SF.
 
Vintageliving said:
I'm sorry they're setting up firm. I tried a lard batch recently and it set up firm as well. I can use it, but not for what I had hoped.

My olive-castor bars stay liquid. I have used 89% olive and 11% castor at 5% SF. Also, 95% EVOO - 5% castor, 7% SF. Both soap bars work well. I cook them very slowly for 3 - 4 hours.

Am wondering if less pectin would make a difference.

I may try the pine tar. Mine is 20% pine tar and 5% SF.

I make a batch with plain whipped soap (no milk powder or fragrances) and thickened that with Xanthan gum instead of pectin. The result is a gel type soap which can be squeezed out of a dispenser quite easily. It feels marginally slimy but works extremely well as a hand wash with a little added Jojoba and Lavender EO.

The base soap definitely has an impact on the result. I made some CP soap which was very high in Castor (sticky bar) and also used PKO instead of CO. Now this one was "thickened" with double the amount of Xanthan gum but it has remained extremely liquid and clear. Who would have guessed ?

This is a lot of fun :)
 
My last batch of lard soap solidified, even though I didn't add any baking soda to it. This newer batch is good for washing dishes, so nothing lost.

MDL, I'm glad you've had such good success with the xanthan gum. I'll give it a try.

Do you use the same amount as you would pectin powder?
 
Vintageliving said:
My last batch of lard soap solidified, even though I didn't add any baking soda to it. This newer batch is good for washing dishes, so nothing lost.

MDL, I'm glad you've had such good success with the xanthan gum. I'll give it a try.

Do you use the same amount as you would pectin powder?

VL I used
170 g soap
1000 g water
5 ml (1 teaspoon) Xanthan Gum.

Melt the soap in the water over high heat, then sprinkle the gum over the surface and stir in with a wire whisk until it starts to thicken. Take off the heat and leave for about 12 hours.

It will become quite solid and gelatinous, but will break up when you beat it with a wire whisk after which it can be poured into bottles through a funnel.

It tends to return to the gelatinous state after standing, but is easily broken up with a good shake and there is no separation. It can also be thinned out a bit with the addition of a little cold water which incorporates into the gel and also does not separate out. Very strange, but fun.
 
MDL, thanks very much! I'm going to use your method for my next batch. Will post a report about what happens.
 
I gave this method a try this afternoon. It was unbelievably easy! I used shreds from my mixed shreds bucket so it was a combo of different soaps (milk, silk & various oils/butters).

The result was very similar to MDL's first batch with the milk and/or silk particulates floating on top. So I added some mango FO and a bit of AKO and gave it a quick buzz with the SB.

I ended up with a light tan colored, creamy looking soap with an awesome silky lather. It rinses clean and is not as drying as some natural liquid soaps I've used. I'd still like for it to be a bit more moisturizing though (I may have cooked it a bit too long). I'm thinking of adding a bit of botanical extract (in glycerin). And maybe a tiny bit of mango butter.

Anyway than you so much Sun for sharing this fun recipe :)
 
Thanks so much for sharing this. I tried it tonight for the first time and felt like it left a drag on my hands. Any ideas how to get this? It just didn't feel like it rinsed clean.

Lisa Johnson
 
Thanks so much for sharing this. I tried it tonight for the first time and felt like it left a drag on my hands. Any ideas how to get this? It just didn't feel like it rinsed clean.

Lisa Johnson
 
johnsonlisa said:
Thanks so much for sharing this. I tried it tonight for the first time and felt like it left a drag on my hands. Any ideas how to get this? It just didn't feel like it rinsed clean.

Lisa Johnson

I suspect that it is in fact too cleansing, resulting in a lack of slip on your skin. Try adding a bit of Jojoba to it.
 
I am so glad someone got this thread going. I was looking to make some liquid soap too and have my Potassium and all but when ever I looked at the directions...I was overwhelmed. lol I will give this a try though as soon as I can get some pectin. Whoo hoo! New experiment! :)
 
I did add about 1/2 oz of vit e oil (not jojoba) but I only made the half batch. Will try it again with the full batch and jojoba.

Is everyone just using a sauce pan to melt the soap or a double boiler (which I don't have)? I notice that a great deal of the soap mixture was stuck to the bottom of the pan throughout the cook and I had to keep scraping the bottom. I wasn't sure if that was "normal"?

Lisa
 
johnsonlisa said:
I did add about 1/2 oz of vit e oil (not jojoba) but I only made the half batch. Will try it again with the full batch and jojoba.

Is everyone just using a sauce pan to melt the soap or a double boiler (which I don't have)? I notice that a great deal of the soap mixture was stuck to the bottom of the pan throughout the cook and I had to keep scraping the bottom. I wasn't sure if that was "normal"?

Lisa

I am not sure how CP or HP shreds behave, Lisa. I use shreds of whipped soap and those always float on top of the water. I use a normal saucepan.
I have noticed though that when I use shreds which have colourant in them the colourant sinks to the bottom of the pan after the soap has melted into the water.

If you have a scale which can measure in grams try
170 grams soap shreds
1000 grams water

and once the soap has melted add 1 tsp pectin.

I use a wire whisk to stir the mixture as it creates the least amount of suds.

ETA.......I add the Jojoba after the soap has cooled completely.
 
Success! I found success thanks to you all by using 170 g soap shreds, 1000 g water and 1/2 tbl pectin. I cook for an hours, skim the top for bubbles and sludge, and whisk a bit. The result is the texture of condensed milk. My only issue is that it turns a honey brown color. Has anyone else had this issue with non-colored soap. Is there any way to lighten it up?

Lisa Johnson
p.s. I am using a bastille I made last week with 85% OO, 10% CO and 5% castor.
 
This is a pretty neat idea but I do make 100% EVOO liuqid soap using the traditional HP liquid soaping metod. It is not slimy at all, you just have to dilute the heck out of it. It is acutally one of my best sellers for eczema and sensentive skin.
 

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