Laundry soap recipe - by weight?

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" I concede I don't wear dress clothes anymore, so I can't speak about delicates like silk.

My favorite travel skirt is heavy black silk I had made in Hong Kong - I do hand wash it, and my laundry soap mix works just fine. Now I can't speak for delicate frou-frou silk things...

I read all the post, I have been wanting to do my own laundry soap, I just didnt have a recipe. Can I use all/part of these recipes and it would be ok for an HE washer?

Spice - look at the links below. Theres lots of recipes, they mostly start with 0 super fat soap, made up mostly of coconut oil. Often citric acid or chelators added. Then the debates start about liquid soap vs grated/powdered solid soap, washing soda and borax and how much or if to add. I like it dry, 1 part grated coconut soap (0% SF and citric acid added) to 1 part washing soda to 1 part borax. Better minds than I say washing soda is better with dry soap and borax with liquid soap, so Ill try it with 1- 2 parts washing soda next time. I have an HE machine, as do most of us here, and 2.5 tbs work fine in mine.
 
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Can I use rebatch soap? I have this soap that I was trying to get it really soft. I purposely added...like a cup of water and melted the soap. It had been cured. I wanted to make it creamy so that when I would go to street fairs I didnt have to hassle with a bar of wet soap. It worked...but now I have to much of it. Reading the posts I wouldnt have to grate it because its like instant soap:-?, Its all ready soft.
 
Can I use rebatch soap? I have this soap that I was trying to get it really soft. I purposely added...like a cup of water and melted the soap. It had been cured. I wanted to make it creamy so that when I would go to street fairs I didnt have to hassle with a bar of wet soap. It worked...but now I have to much of it. Reading the posts I wouldnt have to grate it because its like instant soap:-?, Its all ready soft.

What superfat is the soap? If close to zero Id try it. If not Id put it in pumps for hand soap. Laundry and dish soap are different than body soaps - they are meant to strip oils and leave nothing behind.
 
What superfat is the soap? If close to zero Id try it. If not Id put it in pumps for hand soap. Laundry and dish soap are different than body soaps - they are meant to strip oils and leave nothing behind.
oh, that right. It is sf at 5% ( I think) lately I have been gone and have not done soap in two months. This is actually my first day back. Had to rebatch my life. Anyway I am sure its 5%. Thanks for that heads up. But the hand soap sounds wonderful too;:) I have been wanting to make foam soap.
 
My laundry powder worked well. So far, so good!

My liquid recipe makes 4 3-cup mason jars full, +1 cup. Did a load (I used 1 cup b/c our washer is big), and it worked fine! I made it on Sunday and it didn't really thicken up until today. It kind of has a thin snot texture.
 
I've never made laundry soap, but I'm inclined to do it because I have some oils I don't need that are on the verge of getting old, including quite a lot of CO 92 that isn't used in my latest recipes.

Since excess oil is just a performance-reducing residue in laundry soap, I would be inclined to make this with a negative 5% superfat instead of 0% to help ensure that all the oil is saponified. I could even see doing it at -10% with an older batch of sodium hydroxide.

I would reassure the excess lye police that any leftover caustic is just going to cure out and become washing soda very quickly, especially since the soap has to be pulverized and will have an enormous surface area exposed to air.
 
My favorite travel skirt is heavy black silk I had made in Hong Kong - I do hand wash it, and my laundry soap mix works just fine. Now I can't speak for delicate frou-frou silk things...



Spice - look at the links below. Theres lots of recipes, they mostly start with 0 super fat soap, made up mostly of coconut oil. Often citric acid or chelators added. Then the debates start about liquid soap vs grated/powdered solid soap, washing soda and borax and how much or if to add. I like it dry, 1 part grated coconut soap (0% SF and citric acid added) to 1 part washing soda to 1 part borax. Better minds than I say washing soda is better with dry soap and borax with liquid soap, so Ill try it with 1- 2 parts washing soda next time. I have an HE machine, as do most of us here, and 2.5 tbs work fine in mine.



My laundry powder worked well. So far, so good!

My liquid recipe makes 4 3-cup mason jars full, +1 cup. Did a load (I used 1 cup b/c our washer is big), and it worked fine! I made it on Sunday and it didn't really thicken up until today. It kind of has a thin snot texture.
Thanks SeaWolf and Dixiedragon, this will be my project for this year. I need a kick start, lately. :)
 
I've never made laundry soap, but I'm inclined to do it because I have some oils I don't need that are on the verge of getting old, including quite a lot of CO 92 that isn't used in my latest recipes.

Since excess oil is just a performance-reducing residue in laundry soap, I would be inclined to make this with a negative 5% superfat instead of 0% to help ensure that all the oil is saponified. I could even see doing it at -10% with an older batch of sodium hydroxide.

I would reassure the excess lye police that any leftover caustic is just going to cure out and become washing soda very quickly, especially since the soap has to be pulverized and will have an enormous surface area exposed to air.

I have wondered about this very thing. I have been using 0% super fat CO laundry soap. I wanted to go lower on the superfat but I didn't know what would happen to any access lye. Thanks for the idea.
 
TOMH has a point, if only that most soap recipe calcs assume the lye purity is 100% and lye is not that pure -- the purity is more like in the low to mid 90 percents. So a -5% superfat setting in Soapcalc would probably make a soap that's closer to a true zero superfat.

I see no point to going lower than a "true" zero superfat, however. I adjust my recipes for lye purity and at a zero superfat, I know my laundry soap has a slight amount of excess lye based on zap testing and on the drying and roughening of my skin when I handle the soap without gloves. I definitely don't get this from my bath soaps at 2% to 3% superfat. That's sufficient proof for me that the superfat in my laundry soap is at or near zero.

I don't want any more excess lye in the soap for safety reasons. A certain amount of dust gets into the air when processing the soap into powder, so it's already irritating to breathe (which is why I do this work under my stove's vent hood set on high). I don't need to add more lye to make the dust even less safe.
 
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I would not use a negative superfat. Your clothes don't need the excess alkalinity. 0% SF is low enough to ensure complete saponification.

Even in bar soap, excess NaOH cures out pretty quickly to sodium carbonate, which we're adding anyway to make laundry soap.

Without knowing actual SAP values, we don't know how much caustic is required to completely saponify a batch of oils. If we say for the sake of argument that our assumed values are exactly correct, then 0% SF probably is not enough to ensure complete saponification because of the purity issue DeeAnna pointed out. Caustic strength readily deteriorates from picking up water weight and reacting with the air to form Na2CO3.

The intent is mainly to aim a little closer to the mark rather than intentionally have excess caustic, but I wouldn't worry about a small amount. People can do it according to their preference, but setting a -5% superfat in the calculation is a viable option.
 
I offered some to a co-worker. Her washing machine drains into field lines in her yard, not a septic tank or sewer. So I did a bit of Googling and found this page.

http://ecologycenter.org/factsheets/greywater-cleaning-products/

It looks like Borax and washing soda "sodium and ingredients with the word “sodium” in them*" are out.

OxyClean doesn't appear to be good for a gray water system either. So now I want to make a greywater-compatible laundry soap.
 
"...ingredients with the word “sodium” in them*" are out..."

Like the sodium in lye -- sodium hydroxide?

"...Her washing machine drains into field lines in her yard, not a septic tank or sewer...."

I have to say that's pretty unlikely. All properly designed home (private) sewage systems have two main components -- a septic tank and a drainage field. Sewage from the house drains into the tank first. The tank is there so solids can settle out and microbes can have a quiet warm place to chomp up all those wastes. Then the cleaner wastewater drains from the tank into the drain field and from there into the soil. If her sewer water is draining directly into a drainage field without a septic tank, she's 99% likely to be in violation of local environmental quality laws. Not to mention the drain field would plug up pretty fast without a tank to remove solids first.

I spent about 5 years working in an industrial wastewater treatment plant and have lived with a septic system for over 15 years. On that basis, while I agree that large amounts of some typical household chemicals (including soap) could be toxic to a septic system, the modest amounts used in normal bathing, clothes washing, and such are fine.

Some chemicals have no place in a septic system -- petroleum products, paint, flammable products, pesticides, more than trace amounts of grease and fat, and large amounts of food from a garbage disposal. It's also good to minimize wild fluctuations in how a septic system is used. For example, draining a hot tub into a septic system can disrupt normal septic and drain field function simply from the unusually large flow of water.

In Alabama and the rest of the eastern 2/3rds of the United States, there is enough yearly precipitation that sodium and boron (the chemical of concern in borax) will not accumulate in the soil. In these regions, the rainfall exceeds the rate of evaporation and plant use of water. In arid or desert regions of the US, the story is different -- sodium, boron, and other chemicals toxic to plant growth and to the soil can accumulate over time.

To give you an example based on living in Iowa -- we keep a salt block out in the horse pasture for the horses and wild deer. It's pretty easy to see the effects of sodium overload on the soil around the salt block -- nothing, not even the toughest weed, will grow in a 3 foot circle around the salt block. It takes 2-3 years for the effects of the sodium to disappear once the salt block is gone. In almost 20 years of living with a septic tank and in the three years I've been making lye soap and using laundry soap, the soil in my drain field is NOT in any trouble -- the grass is growing quite fine over the drain field.

http://www.epa.gov/septic/brochures-and-fact-sheets-about-septic-systems-homeowners
 
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"...ingredients with the word “sodium” in them*" are out..."

Like the sodium in lye -- sodium hydroxide?

"...Her washing machine drains into field lines in her yard, not a septic tank or sewer...."

I have to say that's pretty unlikely. All properly designed home sewage systems have two main components -- a septic tank and a drainage field.
http://www.epa.gov/septic/brochures-and-fact-sheets-about-septic-systems-homeowners

Keyword here is "properly designed". My parent's lakehouse does the same thing. The bathrooms and kitchen water go into a septic tank, but the laundry drains into some field lines, or maybe one of those things with the gravel, I think it's called a French drain? Both of these are older houses way out in the country, so while this is probably technically a violation of code, nobody actually cares or enforces it. We really try to limit the laundry we do at my parent's lake house because we are worried about runoff into the lake. But when we do laundry, we have random little foamy streams appearing in different parts of the yard. I think what happens is that the homeowners have the laundry room added on years and years after the home is built, and rather than run lines to the septic tank they just have the water go in the yard, because it's way cheaper.
 
Yep, I agree -- it sounds like the laundry water is going to a french drain or possibly to a "dry well". (In older designs, a dry well is basically a hole dug in the ground and filled with rock or gravel.) Problem with a drain/drywell is exactly what you describe -- it's really easy to end up with a muddy mess in the yard. And if there's raw sewage in the drainage water -- as would happen if someone plumbs a toilet to the so-called "sewer" -- then it can end up being a muddy health hazard. :-|
 
Yucky. Fortunately, not the case here! Although at the lake house, one of the toilets drains into the wrong half of the septic tank. Apparently septic tanks (at least some of them) are divided in half. The half that toilets drain into is designed so that toilet paper can't make it into the field lines until it is completely dissolved. Plus the previous owner built a sidewalk over half of the tank. So eventually my parents (or the next owners) are going to have to tear up the side walk to get to the tank, and then have that toilet re-routed to the correct half of the tank.
 
I sooooo do not envy your parents! Septic fixes are messy, muddy, and nasty.
 

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