ISO: Recipe for "Runny Lotion"

[Niyona]

I recently purchased some Drummer's Hand Lotion from a local store. It's a handmade lotion - but the shop owner said the lady who made it isn't going to be bringing anymore in, because she is moving out of state. I love this stuff, and was wondering if you guys could help me make my own version of it.

It is a very runny consistency, almost like a very thick heavy cream.

Ingredients listed:

Shea Butter, Glycerin, Cooca Butter, Aloe Vera Gel.

It smells wonderful. I don't particularly need it to be runny. I do however like that it doesn't have any emulsifiers in it.

What do you guys think?

 

[Dorymae]

No emulsifiers? Not even borax? If it does not then it either need to be shaken before use or it containes no water.

Which is it?

Just saw the aloe Vera gel, which is water soluble. For some reason I am having a very hard time believing she labeled correctly.

Hmmm all I can think is that the aloe is a very very small amount and that she used glycerin as you would normally use water.

Need someone a bit more knowledgable than me I think!

I found this : http://www.thriftyfun.com/tf46754104.tip.html
Is that the one?

 

[Niyona]

It does separate if left to sit for about 48 hours. The separated portion is a clear, orangey color. I am guessing that is the aloe vera gel.

Just saw the aloe Vera gel, which is water soluble. For some reason I am having a very hard time believing she labeled correctly.

The fact that there are no emulsifiers listed on the label is what intrigued me. Before I had a baby, I used to make my own lotion, soaps, whatever looked fun to make that week... But, I never made one without emulsifiers.

 

[Dahila]

No emulsifier means Separation. Lotion which separates is gross in my opinion

 

[Dorymae]

It does separate if left to sit for about 48 hours. The separated portion is a clear, orangey color. I am guessing that is the aloe vera gel.

Well then there is your answer! If you want to try to dupe it, I would start by looking carefully at the list. There is less glycerin ( or equal) to the Shea - my guess is equal, since you call it runny. I imagine both the cocoa butter and aloe are smaller amounts ( together maybe 10% or less of the entire recipe).

Good luck.

Oh, and just a heads up. Although this is mainly an oil concoction, it can get the Ickes so be sure to make very small amounts you can use within a week, don't dip your fingers in the lotion ( try a squirt bottle) , and refrigerate when not in use.

 

[The Efficacious Gentleman]

Could you use an emulsifier and preservative? Would make a much more stable lotion with no shaking and worries about it going bad

 

[DeeAnna]

I was having trouble wrapping my mind around how the ingredients list in Post 1 would make a runny, liquid product. IMO, shea + cocoa butters, which are solid at room temperature, are unlikely to remain liquid without any other liquid oil in the formulation to act as a solvent. The aloe and glycerin won't help any -- they aren't oil soluble.

The ingredients in Dorymae's link are more likely to make a product as you describe, Nionya. In Dorymae's link, the ingredients are Shea Butter, Glycerin, Cocoa Butter, Mineral Oil, Hydrocortisone 1% Gua Gum, Calcium Sulfate and Aloe Vera Gel.

The mineral oil is the solvent for the shea and cocoa butters. The hydrocortisone will help stop itching. The gua (guar?) gum and calcium sulfate are thickeners (but they aren't emuslfiers).

If the ingredients list is in order of descending %, then glycerin is the water phase. Aloe is below the 1% hydrocortisone, so aloe is equal to or (probably) less than 1% of the total and is mostly there for label appeal. My conclusion is the glycerin is acting both as the water phase and as a self preservative. Here's more info:

"...Glycerin is a very effective preservative... To be effective as a preservative, you need to have AT LEAST a 50% glycerin content in your formula, and it is best if it is about 60-70%. The downside is glycerin is very, very sticky – not a great skin feel...." Source: http://www.makingskincare.com/preservatives/

 

[Dorymae]

"...Glycerin is a very effective preservative... To be effective as a preservative, you need to have AT LEAST a 50% glycerin content in your formula, and it is best if it is about 60-70%. The downside is glycerin is very, very sticky – not a great skin feel...." Source: http://www.makingskincare.com/preservatives/

Wow, I did not know glycerin could preserve. Learned something new!

One question, in that same article it says that Ethanol (ever clear) can preserve at 20-25%. Is this true? I had always thought the percent had to be quite a bit higher than that.

 

[DeeAnna]

I think the actual alcohol content in a finished product has to be about 18% or higher. I'm speaking from memory, however, so please take this as a rough number, not gospel truth.

Everclear is sold in two versions -- 190 proof (95%) and 151 proof (75%). You would need to doublecheck the actual everclear you're using and calculate the ethanol content in the finished product. The higher alcohol version isn't sold in all 50 states, so that's something to keep in mind too.

If you use 190 proof everclear at 20%, the actual alcohol content would be 0.95 X 20% = 19%. That would work.

With 151 proof everclear, the answer is 0.75 X 20% = 15%. Not good enough.

 

[Dahila]

Dorymae you can make herbal extracts in gliceryne ) even with the fresh herbs. I make them only dry herbs and vodka )