Is my soap usable

[dpr64]

I just unmolded and cut my 4th batch of soap. When I was cutting it, I noticed there were streaks throughout the soap. They appear to be some oils that did not get incorporated. Sorry if I don't use the correct terminology. While I was mixing the soap with a stick blender there seemed to be some oils that would not blend in. Here is the recipe I used:
240g water
104 Lye
338g olive oil
165g Coconut oil
150g Cocoa Butter
60g Hemp
38g Castor
40g Fragrance
1 teaspoon Kaolin Clay
The lye and oils were 110 and 108 when mixed
I unmolded it after 14 hours and it was slightly warm, just above room temperature.
Is this batch still good? This is for personal use and as gifts. I do not sell soap.
Thanks for any advice

 

[ResolvableOwl]

30% lye concentration, 5% SF, 5.3% FO load. This all looks entirely fine. Unless you have had really bad luck with SBing (did you scrape off the walls of your SB container and give it a good stir afterwards?), there is little chance that your soap would turn out to be unsafe. When in doubt, a zap test can't hurt.

I'd say just give it a day or two, sometimes issues with excess oil resolve by themselves (reabsorption).

Which fragrance did you use? There are some that are notorious for slowing/reverting trace or messing up otherwise with the soaping process.

 

[earlene]

Did you pre-melt all the oils and were they clear or opaque when you started adding the lye solution to the oils? Sometimes when the pre-melted oils cool down, a hard oil will start to revert to the hard state and in the presence of more cold, will not mix well with the lye. Sometimes we can get what looks like trace because the hard oils get hard at a faster speed than the lye reaction. But with that starting heat, I would not expect that to happen unless either you introduced something cold to the mix (something kept in the refrigerator, for example) or you used a fragrance known for behaving badly in CP soap. (as RO mentions above.)

 

[dpr64]

30% lye concentration, 5% SF, 5.3% FO load. This all looks entirely fine. Unless you have had really bad luck with SBing (did you scrape off the walls of your SB container and give it a good stir afterwards?), there is little chance that your soap would turn out to be unsafe. When in doubt, a zap test can't hurt.

I'd say just give it a day or two, sometimes issues with excess oil resolve by themselves (reabsorption).

Which fragrance did you use? There are some that are notorious for slowing/reverting trace or messing up otherwise with the soaping process.

While blending there was a small amount of oil "clinging" to walls, I did scape to get them into middle and blended them in, and they appeared to blend in. I used 24g of Rose Boquet from NDA, 5g of Amber Romance from NDA and 1g of Ylang Ylang III from BB. What is a zap test? Thanks

Did you pre-melt all the oils and were they clear or opaque when you started adding the lye solution to the oils? Sometimes when the pre-melted oils cool down, a hard oil will start to revert to the hard state and in the presence of more cold, will not mix well with the lye. Sometimes we can get what looks like trace because the hard oils get hard at a faster speed than the lye reaction. But with that starting heat, I would not expect that to happen unless either you introduced something cold to the mix (something kept in the refrigerator, for example) or you used a fragrance known for behaving badly in CP soap. (as RO mentions above.)

I did melt the coconut oil and cocoa butter then added the olive oil, hemp oil and castor. The oils reached temp of at least 140 and was clear. when I mixed lye with oils the temps were almost same at 110. The fragrance oils were room temp. Rose Boquet 24g from NDA, Amber Romance 5g from NDA and Ylang Ylang III from BB. Thanks

 

[ResolvableOwl]

What is a zap test? Thanks

https://www.soapmakingforum.com/threads/how-to-properly-safely-conduct-the-zap-tongue-test.63199/

 

[dpr64]

https://www.soapmakingforum.com/threads/how-to-properly-safely-conduct-the-zap-tongue-test.63199/

Thanks, I have just started reading Scientific Soapmaking but didn't get to that page yet. I appreciate it

 

[earlene]

I did melt the coconut oil and cocoa butter then added the olive oil, hemp oil and castor. The oils reached temp of at least 140 and was clear. when I mixed lye with oils the temps were almost same at 110. The fragrance oils were room temp. Rose Boquet 24g from NDA, Amber Romance 5g from NDA and Ylang Ylang III from BB. Thanks

One review (perhaps others) on BB mentions Ylang Ylang III causing ricing, which could be what you were seeing. Take a look at this link (scroll down to the heading Ricing/Seizing) and see if it looks like what you were seeing: Soapy Mess-Up Quick Guide - Soap Queen

And there was one customer review (perhaps others) that mention the NDA Rose Bouquet did accelerate trace a bit.
I have found that many florals can accelerate trace.

I have also found that when I mix fragrances that on their own cause problems, they tend to complicate things. So I have learned to read reviews and also look at reviews here at SMF.
Link to thread about the SMF review document: Fragrance Oil Review Chart Link
Link to the document: SMF Fragrance Oil Review

 

[Nona'sFarm]

Whoops, see below

 

[Nona'sFarm]

I just unmolded and cut my 4th batch of soap. When I was cutting it, I noticed there were streaks throughout the soap. They appear to be some oils that did not get incorporated. Sorry if I don't use the correct terminology. While I was mixing the soap with a stick blender there seemed to be some oils that would not blend in. Here is the recipe I used:
240g water
104 Lye
338g olive oil
165g Coconut oil
150g Cocoa Butter
60g Hemp
38g Castor
40g Fragrance
1 teaspoon Kaolin Clay
The lye and oils were 110 and 108 when mixed
I unmolded it after 14 hours and it was slightly warm, just above room temperature.
Is this batch still good? This is for personal use and as gifts. I do not sell soap.
Thanks for any advice

It all sounds good. As @ResolvableOwl said, it may just need more time. I usually wait around 24 hours before unmolding.

This thread may be helpful.

https://www.soapmakingforum.com/threads/unmolding-soap.80846/