RO... I am humbled by your recommendations. It's truly appreciated. @Johnez
has not been here on the site for at least 2 months or so. I even PM'd him and no response about two weeks ago. I know he changed jobs and such, I just hope that the Covid Grim Reaper spared him a visit. @Johnez
and I had a great rapport and did a lot of PMs between us. Plus I sent him a few samples of my shave soap for his feedback.
Your recipe is fine for a starter, but I highly recommend using a ratio of 40% Sodium Hydroxide and 60% Potassium Hydroxide. KOH also makes a softer soap, not gooey, but a softer hard puck (oxymoron?) which will soften quicker with the addition of water to build up the lather quicker. The addition of the KOH also make the initial soap easier to deal with during the post hot process phase... I know from experience. In addition, all the high-end shave soaps out there are a mostly softer consistency and all have some level of KOH in them. Some are a harder pucks but most have a softer consistency, like homemade fudge. I have done extensive research on this. It is recommended by most advanced soap makers that one does a superfat when making shave soaps; around 6-8% is the recommended range. Remember, shave soap is not to clean the skin but to provide a slick and easy gliding barrier between the razor blade and the skin.
Superfatting after the hot process cooks does several things; it adds skin conditioning qualities to the product which are not changed by saponification, one doesn't need much in the way of conditioning oils to make a great shave soap with great post shave feel. I set the soap calculator
for a 5% superfat during the hot process and saponification phases then I add 1.5% Argan Oil and 1.5% Lanolin Oil along with 10% glycerin (by weight of total oils used). I get an end result of an 8% total superfat.
Carrie Seibert recommends that when designing a shave soap formula to be sure to have at least a 45-50 percent stearic fatty acid content from the combination of oils used. This can come from using fats high in stearic fatty acids such as beef tallow 22%, shea butter 40%, cocoa butter 33%, sal butter 44% and so forth. Avoid using expensive soft oils, they will do nothing for adding to a great shave soap. Jojoba oil is a liquid wax ester and only adds a little conditioning plus it's expensive and really doesn't add to the shave experience quality. If you want to make a bombdiggity slap yo' Mama OMG shave soap then avoid the soft oils except for Castor Oil which adds a level of creaminess not found in other oils or fats.
Now there are some "individuals" that take Melt & Pour soap base and then add coloring and scent to it and call it "artisan homemade" or "gourmet" to sell on that famous auction site. Riiiggghhht!
As we say in the Southwestern United States: Don't tinkle
down my back and tell me it's raining!
(Had to change the verb so as to not offend the lightly offendable folks here.)
If you want to color your soaps and also improve the lathering/bubbliness of them I suggest using HONEY! It reacts with lye in a most interesting way going from a honey color to a deep amber color. It speeds up saponification quite a bit, which is a good thing when doing hot process (just look out an occasional volcano.) It also acts as a humectant drawing moisture to the skin. All you need is about a tablespoon or less per pound of oils. As most experienced soap makers here on this forum will attest to, using sugar, honey, or sorbitol will really kick up the lathering of the soap. Honey also adds a sweetness of odor in the background of whichever scent you use. As the Owl said, working with cocoa can be a tricky proposition. Plus it doesn't add anything to the end product but color and grit. Try honey and see what you think.
You may make whichever kind of soap you choose to do. That is the freedom of making soaps! I just thought I would throw in my 2 cents worth... actually about two bit... shave and a haircut two bits! LOL~!
Experiment all you want, check out some YouTube videos, get Carrie Seibert's book: How to Make Shaving Soap: Charting Your Course to the Land of Lather
What ever you decide will be the right course for you, naturally. Come here to this forum seek assistance if you desire. I suggest making small batches, around 200 grams or so. When doing hot process you will lose water, cover the cooking pot with plastic wrap and the lid to reduce it. Add a 10% loss factor to the water added in the beginning to offset this, it helps.
Good Luck and BE CAREFUL... you just may fall into the TWILIGHT ZONE of shave soap making!
"You unlock this door with the key of imagination. Beyond it is another dimension: a dimension of saponification, a dimension of smell, a dimension of conditioning. You're moving into a land of both shave slickness and glide, of formulas and ideas. You've just crossed over into… the Twilight Zone."