When oils and lye water are at 90 degrees pour lye water into oils. At lite trace, add the liquid silk and stickblend it or whisk it in for good incorporation. Add pearberry fragrance at full trace and mix in very well. Pour into mold wait 20 minutes and "swirl" the top with a butter knife into peaks and waves. Insulate well for 24 hrs. This will be a very hard and bubbly soap, a soft ivory color that reminds me of the meat of a luscious green pear. The high percentage of palm makes it very creamy and conditioning and the silk is wonderfully softening on the skin.
The primary thing I've found that helps my soaps to be extra moisturizing is to superfat my recipes after trace. Using 2 oz. of Castor Oil or Shea Butter can do wonders for the moisturizing end results I believe.
Also, have you tried using the lye calc at this link?
you can make a much less expensive soap by using tussah silk and dissolving it in your lye water. simply snip or pull a bit off and drop it in the water - add the lye in on top and stir. it dissolves as the lye water cools and even if you see bits of it in there still when it's time to soap it disappears and is never seen again.
I found this old thread, and I feel I need to say something about the original and the posts. First of all soap is not there to moisturise the skin, it sole purpose is to cleanse without stripping off the natural oils and we achieve that by superfatting. The only thing that will moisturise is water, so after a good wash pat dry and before it all evaporates lock it in with some good oil based moisturiser or just a few drops of plain evoo or oil of choice.