How Much (Quantity)

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Bubble Agent

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That is interesting, and it makes sense to me why 10% of the water weight was chosen. I suspect it has to do with anticipated water loss after cure, with the expectation being that 90% of the water weight is lost, and therefore the 3% would be the correct portion for the Net Weight of each bar of soap. Someone really put a lot of thought into the calculation for fragrance usage.

Of course, I may disagree with the 3% limit, but the rational for how the percentage is calculated is brilliant, IMO.
I know, and I also disagree with such a low limit. But I do understand it is a specific reasoning behind the limitations, so I am fine with it (now, lol). I know how to make the best out of my recipe with the fragrances and limitations, and I am making sure I only use the oils that performs the best in lower concentrations, so nothing feels like a waste.

I have three essential oil variations that I have in my assessment - Rosemary & Spearmint, Lavender & Lemongrass, Lime, Fir & Cypress (french). They stick quite well, and are not too weak to be noticed, even after a year.

What I found interesting is that my assessment has quoted recommandations from Tisserand when it came to safety, usage rates etc. So his work is listed in my safety assessment, and since I have his book I recognised the things that were quoted. No other sources were mentioned at all when it came to essential oils, so his work seems to be regarded as the best, at least for my assessment team, since they used only his work as the scaffolding for essential oil safety in their work.
 

kdm

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@kdm Do you have some favourite essential oils you want to use? I know you mentioned Lavender and grapefruit/sitrus already. But any other ones?
Just those two initially. I've made two batches of 5 bars each already this week and clearly I don't wash enough for them to be useful!
I think I should have doubled up on my lavender. I haven't done the grapefruit yet, but think it might have to be even stronger.
If I had to pick another one, I might go with mint.
I have a truckload of juniper berries. I was considering trying to extract the essence.
In fact, I'd like to make a transparent soap with just juniper. Just as a sort of apprentice piece!
 

Babyshoes

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Not quite correct, but I do understand it is easy to misunderstand that 3% number!

For those of us that have to follow the EU regulations (regarding fragrance when selling soaps) we are not allowed to use more than 3% of the combined weight of the oils/fat, the lye and 10% of the waterweight.

So not 3% total batch weight unfortunately, which would give us more allowed fragrance. Annoying yes, but it is what it is...🤨

Therefore, depending on each recipe`s waterweight i.e 33 % Lye Concentration vs 38% Liquid as a percent of oils, the allowed grams of a fragrance will fluctuate from recipe to recipe.

But it is indeed correct that if the IFRA is lower than our allowed fragrance, we do have to follow the IFRA first and foremost.
That's good to know, thanks for that clarification. As I mentioned, I don't sell so have never had an assessment done, that was my understanding based on what I've read or heard others say about their limitations within their assessments.
 
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Bubble Agent

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That's good to know, thanks for that clarification. As I mentioned, I don't sell so have never had an assessment done, that was my understanding based on what I've read or heard others say about their limitations within their assessments.
Totally understandable @Babyshoes ! And I also initially thought the same as you, because things I had read in different places, even some blogs, that said that they had their soaps assessed, and clearly said that 3% fragrance of the complete batch weight was the standard norm. So when I started the whole process I double checked with them (Scott Grainger) thinking they would of course say, yup, you got it right, gurrl, lets do 'dis.
But of course they didn`t😅

I apologize if I came accross as a know-it-all, but I just wanted to be clear instead of giving a vague reply when I just as well be specific.
 

Bubble Agent

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Just those two initially. I've made two batches of 5 bars each already this week and clearly I don't wash enough for them to be useful!
I think I should have doubled up on my lavender. I haven't done the grapefruit yet, but think it might have to be even stronger.
If I had to pick another one, I might go with mint.
I have a truckload of juniper berries. I was considering trying to extract the essence.
In fact, I'd like to make a transparent soap with just juniper. Just as a sort of apprentice piece!
Set some bars to the side and let them sit, and test them over time. Never mind the fading fragrance, but test the soap itself and save the recipe beside them so you know what it is if they turn out to be the most fantastic soaps in your stash.

Grapefruit - the the times I have used pink grapefruit (the essential oil) it faded terribly, and I used it at 5% of the oil weight (I checked the SDS beforehand and it had no limitations in soap for personal uses) and after 6 months it was just pffft - gone alltogether. So if you want to use it perhaps pair it with something to anchor it. I don`t use it for soap anymore, but it is great in cleaning products. Fresh and clean smelling.

I have not had any success using kaolin or other clays to anchor that or other faders, and I have tried so many times. But maybe you have better luck than me if you haven`t tried it.

Mint is a fresh one, and I have kept a bar from february 2020, at 4% it has a faint mint smell. When I pair it with rosemary it sticks better (2% mint & 2% rosemary) My favourite is to pair it with spearmint. I love the chewing gum smell it gives, but some doesn`t. It just makes for a refreshing bar. I hot process it though, or else it fades a bit to much.

Mint and other minty oils - just be sure to take into acount the ahem cooling effect. I mean, since you mentioned before that you tested soap on your.... on your... ahem...body. 🙃
 
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Bubble Agent

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Thanks Zany, but I am a bit confused to why you gave me the links?:)

The calculator gave me 5% safe usage rate for CP soap, the same rate as I have used but did not stick. The fragrance blend I am sure is lovely, but WSP does not ship to the EU/Europe, so even if I wanted to try the blend you linked to I can`t get a hold of it.

But thank you anyway for trying to help!
 

ResolvableOwl

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Bubble Agent

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@ResolvableOwl Oooooo, I LOVE star anise! I blended 1% with 2% of Vanilla Cream from Nurture. Nom! And a crazy sticker too. I have used up the last of the soap now, but it stuck for 2 1/2 years. It really is one of those crazy sticking essential oils that is fun to have. Tisserand says it can be used at 1.75%, but I found 1% was plenty. I may try a bit more next time!

Nobody else that I know likes star anise, so I made it just for me.

(there is obviously something wrong with them...)
 

Zany_in_CO

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Thanks Zany, but I am a bit confused to why you gave me the links?
Oh dear. I hadn't had my 2nd cuppa coffee yet! 🤪 I should have explained, I like grapefruit EO but, as you mentioned, it needs to be paired with an "anchor". I like Yuzu FO and when I didn't find it, I just linked the WSP calc any way, which gives rates for EOs, FOs, and blends. I'm math-challenged, so anytime I can find a tool to do the math for me, I'm happy. :D
 

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