How do I go from here? HBL

[dagmar88]

I'm trying to come up with my own recipe for a facial cream

The oil phase without emulsifier is 22% of the total recipe.
The HBL of the combined oils is 6,91.

I'd like to use e-wax as the emulsifier.

How do I calculate how much I need?

:?

 

[IrishLass]

I don't know, but here is a link to a treasure trove of HLB calculations and info from Swiftcraftymonkey's blog:

http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com/search/label/HLB


IrishLass

 

[judymoody]

Swift has an HLB calculator on the side bar of her blog. It's an excel spread sheet that you can download and you then can plug in your numbers.

If I understand the HLB system at all, it doesn't tell you how much emulsifier to use in % terms, but how to combine emulsifiers to get to a corresponding HLB value. I am new to this, so I may be incorrect, but e-wax/polawax, and BTMS technically don't have HLB values but Swift approximates them at 14.9 and 15.5 respectively. In your case, you would combine your e-wax with some other emulsifier that has a lower HLB in order to approximate 6.91.

Hope this helps. I'm just figuring this stuff out myself.

 

[dagmar88]

Ah, right.

:? But then why is there a need to find a matching HBL?
The HBL of e-wax is 15. That doesn't match, but works at 25% of the oil phase...

 

[judymoody]

Hmm, I don't think I stated my last post very clearly.

Again, I'm no expert but I think with self emulsifiers like e-wax and BTMS, the HLB system might not be as crucial? My thinking is that if you're using an ingredient that has a double function (say both a humectant and a thickener) then you'd have to factor that it with your e-wax.

Unfortunately, one of the sites where I've been getting much of my information has been down for a day or two so I can't verify.

There is a great downloadable article on Swift's site that explains HLB and how to calculate it.

I don't think I'm being much help here, sorry!