Hot Process and Flash Points

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quita

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I have about 3-4 batches under my belt and I realized that most of my citrus oils have been flashing. These are essential oils b/t/w not fragrance. Can I cool hot process soap to 115-110 degrees? My bars come out really smooth for hot process even the tops. I pat them down and it almost looks decorative but I work really fast once the soap is done. I'm afraid if I let cool down that far that the soap will start to seize. So can I let it cool that far? If not any ideas for an herbal scent bar with EO's that have a higher flash point. I'm searching.
 

JayJay

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I had a similar issue with HP. I would let it cool as much as possible before it got too hard to jam into my mold. I like the rustic look of HP soap that isn't smooth, so I was comfortable letting it cool quite a bit. Still it often ended up being too hot for some of the EO's that I was using. I never figured it out completely. So I started using Fragrance Oils and CP. I know that isn't really an answer to your question. I will be watching for someone else to answer because I am curious too.
 

Susie

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Citrus EOs are notorious faders in CP. I would be willing to bet that it is the same for HP. It smells lovely in liquid soap, though!
 

Arimara

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I think that might be a little tricky to cool a HP soap that much. I could try that to be sure but it would have to be tomorrow.
 

lsg

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Adding sodium lactate or instant powdered milk makes a much smoother pour for me. You might try adding one of those to your next batch.
 

HoiPoloi

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I love hping soap but yes, you have to watch for the flashpts. I usually move it into a large bowl so I can let it cool enough to add the eo. I use a candy thermometer. I make sure to continue to turn it so it cools and one spot doesn't get to cold to fast, add in the eo and quickly mold it. It does get a bit crazy but doable!!! It's extreme soaping!!! Lol!!!!
 

cmzaha

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Flashpoint does not necessarily mean you are burning off your fragrance or eo. It is the point at which a flammable liquid will get to the combustion point. In my experience it will start smoking right before it will actually hit the combustion point. Nope you cannot cool hp that cool or you will end of with hard crusty on the top and gel underneath. I have to cool my shave croap enough to get in my jars and at 120º F it is a mix of hard and gelled soap. I can smoosh it into jars but it would not be pretty as a soap. As mentioned citrus are notorious faders. I just cooked a cream soap that was fragranced with Dragon's Blood for over 12 hrs and the DB is as strong as ever. Most of the time my large crock pot was on high and it gets well over 200º F. If anyone asks I was cooking of the extra water in my cream/ shave soap. lol, must use a lye concentration higher than 33%
 

Arimara

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Flashpoint does not necessarily mean you are burning off your fragrance or eo. It is the point at which a flammable liquid will get to the combustion point. In my experience it will start smoking right before it will actually hit the combustion point. Nope you cannot cool hp that cool or you will end of with hard crusty on the top and gel underneath. I have to cool my shave croap enough to get in my jars and at 120º F it is a mix of hard and gelled soap. I can smoosh it into jars but it would not be pretty as a soap. As mentioned citrus are notorious faders. I just cooked a cream soap that was fragranced with Dragon's Blood for over 12 hrs and the DB is as strong as ever. Most of the time my large crock pot was on high and it gets well over 200º F. If anyone asks I was cooking of the extra water in my cream/ shave soap. lol, must use a lye concentration higher than 33%
I thought that might happen. I did forget to find out the hard way today though. I also see what you mean with the flash points. I used half of a SOS sniffie in my second HP batch and the scent light and detectable (I thought it had cooked out initially).
 

quita

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HAHAHA!!! A few batches back I was busy running my mouth and poured bergamot in my batch immediately after the cook and got a big steamy poof of citrus in my face. I was lucky, huh? LOL!! However, a bar from that batch smell like nothing now. :-(

Adding sodium lactate or instant powdered milk makes a much smoother pour for me. You might try adding one of those to your next batch.
When do you add the sodium lactate?
 

reinbeau

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I know people insist flash points have nothing to do with it but I disagree. No, your scent isn't 'flashing' off. However, low flash point EOs seem not stand up well to hot process when added when the heat is full on. I always let mine cool to about 160° and that seems to help. Also you really need an anchor for the citrus scents, straight orange, for example, will fade even in CP.
 

Muskette

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Litsea is a great citrus anchor, and when using Orange, use 10x or 15x for better staying power. Like reinbeau, I let my HP cool to about 160 degrees before adding EOs. I've never had a citrus fade, but I always use blends, for example, a Lemon blend gets lemon, litsea, a bit of lemongrass, and maybe a touch of lime. This way, you can use more total EO without going over the recommended usage for each EO, and the higher total will help ensure that the fragrance lasts. Moreover, the blends are more well-rounded and smell better than straight notes, in my opinion.
 

quita

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I know people insist flash points have nothing to do with it but I disagree. No, your scent isn't 'flashing' off. However, low flash point EOs seem not stand up well to hot process when added when the heat is full on. I always let mine cool to about 160° and that seems to help. Also you really need an anchor for the citrus scents, straight orange, for example, will fade even in CP.
You mean like a mid or base note? Ylang ylang for example?
 

reinbeau

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You mean like a mid or base note? Ylang ylang for example?
Anchor with a good base note, yes. I don't know that ylang ylang is the best choice, that makes things race. I like to use cedarwood to anchor citrus scents. Or lemongrass.
 

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