HLB confusion

Discussion in 'Bath and Body Forum' started by eden, Mar 17, 2019.

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  1. Mar 17, 2019 #1

    eden

    eden

    eden

    Well-Known Member

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    Until recently, I never paid attention to HLB values or requirements or calculators ...then I started playing with a 'calculator' about 2 weeks ago ...and seems I'm having trouble that I never had before. So I guess common sense would tell to just abandon the calculator.
    I created a formula that came out really nice without using a calculator. then I discovered a calculator ( at WSP) - upon putting it into the calculator I was informed that my formula was unbalanced.
    So I tweaked it within the calculator until it said it was balanced. Then I made a test batch ...not nearly as nice in my opinion ...I am working a cream, not a lotion. It was substantially thinner than the 'unbalanced' version. My original version which the calculator said was unbalanced, was really what I was looking for ...it just needed more glide.

    Something I find confusing, calculator aside ...when I increase, say the amount of the co emulsifier, it thins my batch -even though the primary emulsifier is at the same level ...I was thinking the extra co would help ad more body/viscosity/thickness but it did not. My primary emulsifier is actually a complete emulsifier. I added the co for increased body/viscosity/thickness ...but seems less is more (??). I am using Glyceryl Stearate as my co and - the primary emulsifier is SimulGreen 18-12 (tradename from LotionCrafter) which I do like a lot. It's like, upping the co diluted the efficiency of the primary/complete emulsifier ...is that usually the case?

    I think I am going to subscribe to SwiftCraftyMonkey ...it's a paid subscription now but I'll try it ...sounds like a great resource for learning
     

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