No zap so you are good to go on the dilution. We can't give you more advice since you do not say what else is in your face wash recipe. If I was in your situation, I would reserve the paste (it will keep almost indefinitely) and dilute a small part of it, check how it works in your application. If you like it and it works for you, dilute the rest!Thanks Greensoap and Sussie!
So basically I have no clue about the zap test but I did try to test it out yesterday! I tested it and I felt nothing (no electric feeling or zap..) but please enlighten me if I make a mistake in understanding what's a zap test!
For the OO Ls now, I am still unsure what to do with it as I initially wanted to transform it to a face cleanser instead of using surfactants to create one! Any ideas on that? Like if I dilute it straight to my face wash recipe ?
Thanks for this perspective. When I make solid bar soap using 100% OO I use a much larger lye concentrations than when I make a 100% CO soap, yet, I can unmold the CO one much faster, and it cures in 3-4 weeks, rather than several months for the 100% OO ones. This is why I was quite surprised at the LS behaviour, finding it counter intuitive. Your explanation makes sense though, thank you. 100% CO LS does dilute very easily indeed. It also saponifies much more easily so you get paste a whole lot faster."...It is counter intuitive that using OO only would make such an incredibly thick liquid soap...."
I don't think it's counterintuitive at all. Castile bar soap is well known for making its infamous "slime" or "snot". It's the oleic acid soap in castile that causes the bar soap to form a gooey gel over a wide range of water content. This oleic acid soap in a LS castile does the same thing -- it forms a gooey thick gel over a wide range of water content.
When you add a modest amount of another type of soap -- your coconut oil soap for example -- you cut the goo factor down enough so you can get a decent thickness when the soap is concentrated enough to do some good.
If you go to the other extreme and eliminate all or most of the oleic acid in the recipe, you'll end up with a LS that is fairly thin even when fairly concentrated.
ETA: But if I'm following the OP's question, the problem is not about diluting a finished paste -- the question is about getting the batter to saponify in the first place.
Yep- those commercial liquid face washes aren't really 'soap' (an alkali salt of a fatty acid), but are detergent-based instead.And I do see commercial brands that has ph5.5 liquid face wash. If we couldn't make it with liquid soap, is it with surfactants?