Goat milk soap help

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Cnitts

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Hi everyone. I’m trying to come up with my own GM soap recipe. I really want a white, long lasting bar that is not drying. I saw this recipe years ago online and love the look of the soap but wanted to add a few more oils than what this has.


I tried making my own recipe with SoapCalc but everyone told me my CO percentage was too high and my cleansing value was also high which would make my soap very drying and strip the skin of natural oils.

I changed some things around and dropped the CO percentage but now I’m am getting high iodine. Any ideas on how to make this work? I upped the super fat and it didn’t help the cleansing value much.
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Zany_in_CO

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INS Value of 168 is a little high for the "ideal" INS 160. The SAT/UNSAT value is nicely balanced.
INS Value of 133 is too low for the "ideal" INS 160.The SAT/UNSAT value is not balanced and most likely will be softer and take longer to cure.

Personally, I don't expect that 5% each sunflower & grapeseed would add much to a formula where olive oil is a better choice. ??? I like the addition of 5% castor (conditioning, lather) and shea butter as a sub for palm in the Basic Trinity of OIls Formula.

GM Soap w: Shea.png
 
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Dawni

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I also agree that 5% of anything will not amount to much so either increase both and lower the olive or add that 10% to the olive (if you're sticking with this). Also, those 2 oils up your linoleic and linolenic numbers a bit (the higher these are the more chances of rancidity quickly), and it ups your unsat a bit.

Also, I don't think changing your superfat will change your cleansing number in the calculator. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. If you're sticking to 7% superfat in your current recipe I think you can up your coconut even a bit more to change your sat/unsat.

Personally I use very little coconut (so my superfat is also low) but I use a lot of butters. I don't look much at the numbers other than lauric+myristic (cleansing on low) and palmitic+stearic (longevity as high as I can get it), because there has been soap made that defy the INS and iodine and they still make good soap. Check here and here to know more about the numbers.

Are you willing to add more butters? A little cocoa butter will add towards a longer lasting bar of soap, if palm is not an option.
 
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@Cnitts Can you explain what you were hoping to achieve by "using more oils"? Do you have oils around that you are trying to use up?

If not, then the original recipe is not a bad starting place. She was using 25% coconut oil, but her SF was set to 8, which was no doubt done to offset the rather high cleansing number. Still, you could drop the CO down to 20%. I'd use rice bran oil for the missing 5%, and also replace some of the olive oil with RBO, as well. RBO makes a nice white bar of soap, and adds a lovely feel to the lather. too.

I agree with @Dawni about not caring too much about the "ideal numbers" for the most part. Honestly, I make lots of soaps that are outside the ideal iodine range, or aren't "balanced" as far as sat/unsat, and they turn out just fine. Mostly I keep it to low cleansing and higher on conditioning. Longevity comes in at a distant third for me - I have lots of soap to use up, and I don't sell, so it's totally fine with me if it is lower in longevity. ;)

As an aside, are you really using 92 degree coconut oil? Most of what's sold in the US is 76 degree, and the original recipe calls for 76 degree. You want to be careful about that when you are selecting the oils in the calculator.

Also, unless you are doing HP, I recommend changing from "water as percent of oils" to "lye percentage" - set it to 33%. That will give you much more consistent results when scaling your batches up and down.
 
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