Gabriels shaving soap recipe

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Gabriel_Gago

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Aug 10, 2017
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Hello everyone!

Today i want to share a recipe, and maybe more later, with you. I have been selling shaving soaps and other products for a year and a half now, and my customers and friends really love my soaps.

Do notice that, altough i am a barber and i'm in this classic shaving "stuff" for eight years now, what i do know about soapmaking i learned with a friend, and by internet, so i'm almost a self-leaner in the subject. I do not claim to be any kind of expert.

Do feel free to make observations, questions, even criticise if you want it. If i could help a single person with this thread i'll already feel happy about it.

--
So, this is a dual-lye soap, based on stearic acid and suported by babassu oil.

I use Soapee as calculator and you can find this recipe in this link:

http://soapee.com/recipes/4755/print?preview=true


Oil % Grams
Babassu Oil 15 10,5
Canola Oil 15 10,5
Castor Oil 8 5,6
Stearic Acid 62 43,4
100 70
Recipe Totals

Total Water Weight 29,8 grams
Total NaOH Weight 3,8 grams
Total KoH Weight 8,9 grams at 90% purity
Total Lye Weight 12,8 grams
Total Oil Weight 70 grams
Fragrance Oil Weight 2,1 grams
Total Batch Weight 114,7 grams
Superfat 5%
Lye Concentration 30%
NaOH / KOH Ratio 40% / 60%
Water : Lye Ratio 2,333 : 1
Saturated : Unsaturated 75 : 25
Summaries

Property % Recommended
Bubbly 18 14 - 46
Cleansing 11 12 - 22
Condition 23 44 - 69
Hardness 75 29 - 54
Longevity 65 25 - 50
Stable 72 16 - 48
Iodine 27 41 - 70
Ins 172 136 - 165
Fatty Acids %

Lauric 8
Linoleic 3
Linolenic 1
Myristic 3
Oleic 11
Palmitic 2
Ricinoleic 7
Stearic 62
Notes

To have a increased moisturizing effect, do add 8g glyceryn and 4g of any butter after it cools down to 70-ish ºC. I find it better to add some butter of your choice in the end as a superfat, because you want to preserve as much moisturizing effect a possible. Me, i'm a Cupuaçú butter guy. Cupuaçú is much more moisturizing than lanolin or shea butter, besides being a national fruit from my country, Brazil, and thats also why i like to use Babaçú oil whenerver possible, altough i often use coconut or palm kernel, too.

Of course, you can replace an ingredient for another one of your liking, change the amounts, add or not to add any butter or glycerin. Its a solid recipe, tough, and if you want to change it, i would advice not to increase the castor oil %, keep the structure (stearic acid/a hard oil to kickstart the lather/a suport oil for slickness and a moisturizing oil), and since it will make a croap-like soap, pour it directly in the tub of your choice to let ir hardens.

Hope you guys enjoy it, feel free to ask any questions, make suggestions, etc

take care
Gabriel
 
thank you for sharing a vegan version, i have seen so many with lard or tallow that i was going to make it for my husband and not tell him what was in it at all. but now i don't have to cover it up:)
 
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