FOs - Scent Memory Fragrance

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dibbles

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I tested the first four of my samples today. I can't report on discoloration or scent retention, but while it's fresh in my mind my first impressions. I will also update the fragrance notes when I can - they are currently in the newborn nursery on a heating pad and tucked into their blanket so I expect some changes.

Neroli Portofino - Neroli is one of my favorite scents. It's present here, but I want more. A very nice blend - neither too masculine or feminine. It smells expensive. It was easy to soap with, and actually seemed to slow trace. I ordered 2 ounces of this and I'm going to try mixing it with some All Souls Day from Nurture which I really like but it accelerates and discolors to yellow. Hoping the blend bumps the neroli and tames the naughty FO - and ends up being something I love. I also want to try Neroli Blossom from Scent Memory as a comparison - it might be closer to what I ultimately want from a neroli FO.

Helloooo Sailor - This is the only one that accelerated - not unworkable, but I wouldn't plan something that takes a long time to pour. I think an ITP swirl, drop swirl or any kind of hanger swirl could be made. There are some spicy notes, and it does seem to be more masculine than I first thought. I'd still use it myself, but will definitely keep it around for hubby. He has to like it - I'm not giving him the choice to not.

Black Saffron - I suspect this one will discolor some - not sure how much. It is probably the strongest of the samples I ordered. It is very complex and quite lovely. At first I thought 'fruity floral' but it's not really quite that. There are a lot of notes that just blend together in a beautiful way. Behaved well while soaping.

Mojave Ghost - Definitely woody. I mostly smell sandalwood, and I'm not picking up much of the floral as yet in the soap. It's quite nice and was easy to soap.

I ordered a sample of Baccarat Rouge and I love it. I made a small - okay, tiny - solid perfume with it. I really hope this one soaps well and the fragrance sticks. It is my favorite of the ones I ordered. Hopefully I'll be able to test the others soon.
 
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I tested the first four of my samples today. I can't report on discoloration or scent retention, but while it's fresh in my mind my first impressions. I will also update the fragrance notes when I can - they are currently in the newborn nursery on a heating pad and tucked into their blanket so I expect some changes.

Neroli Portofino - Neroli is one of my favorite scents. It's present here, but I want more. A very nice blend - neither too masculine or feminine. It smells expensive. It was easy to soap with, and actually seemed to slow trace. I ordered 2 ounces of this and I'm going to try mixing it with some All Souls Day from Nurture which I really like but it accelerates and discolors to yellow. Hoping the blend bumps the neroli and tames the naughty FO - and ends up being something I love. I also want to try Neroli Blossom from Scent Memory as a comparison - it might be closer to what I ultimately want from a neroli FO.

Helloooo Sailor - This is the only one that accelerated - not unworkable, but I wouldn't plan something that takes a long time to pour. I think an ITP swirl, drop swirl or any kind of hanger swirl could be made. There are some spicy notes, and it does seem to be more masculine than I first thought. I'd still use it myself, but will definitely keep it around for hubby. He has to like it - I'm not giving him the choice to not.

Black Saffron - I suspect this one will discolor some - not sure how much. It is probably the strongest of the samples I ordered. It is very complex and quite lovely. At first I thought 'fruity floral' but it's not really quite that. There are a lot of notes that just blend together in a beautiful way. Behaved well while soaping.

Mojave Ghost - Definitely woody. I mostly smell sandalwood, and I'm not picking up much of the floral as yet in the soap. It's quite nice and was easy to soap.

I ordered a sample of Baccarat Rouge and I love it. I made a small - okay, tiny - solid perfume with it. I really hope this one soaps well and the fragrance sticks. It is my favorite of the ones I ordered. Hopefully I'll be able to test the others soon.
Portofino is one of my personal favorites. They are all so beautiful
 
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I made a test run of my FOs tonight. The bars are 65 g each and I scented at 4%. Nothing weird happened, as in there was no seizing or ricing, but some moved a bit faster than others and there will be some discoloration. The scents all seemed strong to me and it was a bit overwhelming to be smelling them all at once. I’m resting my nose now and will report back soonish.
 
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I made a test run of my FOs tonight. The bars are 65 g each and I scented at 4%. Nothing weird happened, as in there was no seizing or ricing, but some moved a bit faster than others and there will be some discoloration. The scents all seemed strong to me and it was a bit overwhelming to be smelling them all at once. I’m resting my nose now and will report back soonish.
Fabulous.
 
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My Scent Memory FOs arrived. I purposely tried to order very different scents based on the way the scents are classified on the website. My OOB impressions:

Terra - Really different. It made me think of the rainforest of the PNW. I like it, but my partner does not. From the Scent Memory site “A highly naturalistic fragrance composed of cedarwood, geranium, oak moss, orange and grapefruit.” Safe usage is up to 10.8% in soap based on the IFRA 50th Amendment dated June 2021. The one soap maker review noted - “Super strong. Slight acceleration (but still workable with even intricate designs, just be aware). I'm noticing a bit of discoloration (light purple).”

Neroli Portofino - Smells like the soap I use in the hotels I stay in when I get the conference rate. My partner gave it two thumbs up. From the Scent Memory site “Conjures cool breezes, sparkling water, and lush foliage through crisp citrus oils, floral notes, and amber undertones.” Safe usage is up to 8.28% in soap. The same soaper who wrote the review above shared “it just soaped beautifully!! No immediate discoloration (good sign as it's my experience that with floral discoloration, I know quickly).”

Palo Santo Woods - my first impression is a little chocolate, some wood and earthiness, which I like. I might be getting a little hint of the clove folding into what I’m calling chocolate. I have no idea what Palo Santo smells like on its own. From the site: “A cleansing and earthy blend of palo santo, orange, cedar, clove, sage, cypress.” Safe usage is up to 10.65% in soap. There are no reviews from soap makers.

Rose and Peppered Plum - Nice. My partner gives it two thumbs up. I don’t know what all the reviewers mean by “dark” for scent descriptions. I would call it a full or rich floral leaning scent that is heavily influenced by the patchouli and vanilla. From SM “both dark and sweet at the same time. Notes of Dark rose, plum, peppercorn, patchouli, vanilla.” Safe usage is up to 13% in soap. There are no reviews that mention how it behaves in soap.

Seven Veils - I have no idea how to describe this. It smells a bit exotic in a good way. I don’t detect anything resembling carrot, which is in there as a top note, but I do think I can pick up a little sandalwood, vanilla and floral. According to the website, the carrot adds an earthiness. I like it. From SM, the notes are “Carrot, Pimento Berries, Glycine, Laurier Rose, Tahitian Vanilla Flower, Tiger Orchid, Sandalwood, Vanilla Bean” Safe usage is up to 13% in soap. There are no reviews on performance in soap.
Here are the color test results for my first round of Scent Memory FOs. From left to right in both photos: Top row - Terra, Rose and Peppered Plum; middle row - Neroli Portofino, Palo Santo Woods; bottom row - Seven Veils, and the last one is BrambleBerry’s Eucalyptus Cotton as a reference point. According to BB it causes mild acceleration but does not discolor. The Seven Veils is so dark that it’s almost impossible to see the purple mica swirl on the top. They’re all plenty strong enough for me at 4% and if they stick around I would consider ordering each of them again. That will have to wait until after I test the next round I ordered 🤣

E395838A-608E-4094-AA2C-FAC41D134D31.jpeg AD9AABF7-E700-41EF-A399-2F8A23D5D48E.jpeg


My notes indicate a wee bit of acceleration for Terra and Seven Veils, so I will expect a bit more acceleration from these in a regular batch. The recipe was 35% palm oil, 5% each shea and cocoa butters, 20% coconut oil, 5% castor and the rest liquid oils. I used 40% lye concentration and started with the batter at 95 F.
 
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Here are the color test results for my first round or Scent Memory FOs. From left to right in both photos: Top row - Terra, Rose and Peppered Plum; middle row - Neroli Portofino, Palo Santo Woods; bottom row - Seven Veils, and the last one is BrambleBerry’s Eucalyptus Cotton as a reference point. According to BB it causes mild acceleration but does not discolor. The Seven Veils is so dark that it’s almost impossible to see the purple mica swirl on the top. They’re all plenty strong enough for me at 4% and if they stick around I would consider ordering each of them again. That will have to wait until after I test the next round I ordered 🤣

View attachment 68214 View attachment 68216


My notes indicate a wee bit of acceleration for Terra and Seven Veils, so I will expect a bit more acceleration from these in a regular batch. The recipe was 35% palm oil, 5% each shea and cocoa butters, 20% coconut oil, 5% castor and the rest liquid oils. I used 40% lye concentration and started with the batter at 95 F.
Lovely. Seven veils and rose and peppered plum discolor the most even in hot process. Palo santo from sm is my favorite of the kind.
 

Carly B

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Lovely. Seven veils and rose and peppered plum discolor the most even in hot process. Palo santo from sm is my favorite of the kind.
As promised, here's what I ordered. I'm mostly interested in what accelerates. I'm interested in what discolors, too, but not as much. Thank you for any information!

Baccarat Rouge 540 Type

Bibliothe'que Type

Black Saffron Type

Bohemian Spa

Byredo Sunday Type

Delina Exclusif Type

Geranium & Incense

La Boulangerie

Laila Type

Noir Twenty-Nine Type

Ol Mossy Walls

Seven Veils Type

Whispers In The Library Type

Your Skin But Better
 
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As promised, here's what I ordered. I'm mostly interested in what accelerates. I'm interested in what discolors, too, but not as much. Thank you for any information!

Baccarat Rouge 540 Type

Bibliothe'que Type

Black Saffron Type

Bohemian Spa

Byredo Sunday Type

Delina Exclusif Type

Geranium & Incense

La Boulangerie

Laila Type

Noir Twenty-Nine Type

Ol Mossy Walls

Seven Veils Type

Whispers In The Library Type

Your Skin But Better
Some of these I have not soaped with yet but of the ones I have
Whispers - discolors but doesn’t accelerate
7 veils - discolors quite a bit. No other issues as far as I know.
Laila is fabulous. No issues
Geranium is also fabulous.
Biblioteque no issues as far as I know.
Bohemian spa is also fine. Those are the ones I have soaped with and I experienced no issues other than discoloration.
 

Carly B

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Some of these I have not soaped with yet but of the ones I have
Whispers - discolors but doesn’t accelerate
7 veils - discolors quite a bit. No other issues as far as I know.
Laila is fabulous. No issues
Geranium is also fabulous.
Biblioteque no issues as far as I know.
Bohemian spa is also fine. Those are the ones I have soaped with and I experienced no issues other than discoloration.
Thank you so much!
 

Zany_in_CO

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Posted in a separate thread:

 

Carly B

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Posted in a separate thread:

Thanks, Zany!
 

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