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First timer using Lye did I do it right?

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Sorry for this post lol. But I want to make sure my soap is OK... so my first time doing this...
These are my ingredients..
Soap first test. Oct. 21
10 oz coconut
2oz walnut oil
2oz hempseeds oil
2oz avocado oil
2oz. Grape seed oil
3.24 lye
6 oz. tea water
10g bentonite clay
10g Himalayan mud
10g Armenian clay
2g Dead Sea salt
.5g tea tree
1.5 lavender
6oz. Seamoss gel.

So when I started I mixed lye into water and then I was expecting that to heatup to 200 degrees like people say. But I guess since it’s cold outside it didn’t really get to that temperature. I was measuring it around 60-80 degrees. so then I heated all my oils together (bad?!) on low until liquid.That temperature was around 100-120. and then I mixed everything together. Hopefully it traced up enough. But yeah do you think there was a bad chemical reaction with the lye?!
Thanks for any helpp
bless and love

l
 

dixiedragon

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Where did you get this recipe? To be honest...I think it's a bad one.

Did you run the recipe through a lye calculator? I did and here's what I got.

Did you leave out an oil? If not, then you used way too much lye and your soap is unsafe.

I have never used Sea Moss gel...I googled it and stumbled across this thread:

Looks like you should have replaced your water with the gel, vs just adding it. So with 6 oz Tea and 6 oz Sea Moss Gel, you had about double the amount of water. I don't think this is every going to firm up.
1603312855793.png

Can you post a pic? Honestly...I think you're going to have to chuck this one out.
 

DeeAnna

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I agree with Dixie -- I suspect you'll need to throw this batch of soap in the trash.

Next time, please let us critique your recipe before you make more soap, so we can help you make a batch of soap that is safe and good. The fats you used in this batch will make a fairly harsh, drying soap that may become rancid quickly. My opinion is this is not a good blend of fats for making nice soap.

Are you following someone's tutorial for making this soap? If so, please share a link to the tutorial so we can understand the context a little better.

Did you use a soap recipe calculator to calculate the NaOH weight? If so, which one did you use? Or can you show why you used that much NaOH for this recipe?

Other things that concerned me --

You added about 1 ounce of clays/mud to a recipe calling for only 18 oz of fat. That's over 5% by weight, and I thnk that's a lot more than most people would use. Not to mention the minerals in Dead Sea salt might inhibit the soap from firming up.

It might be cold outside, but NaOH should still cause the lye solution to heat up a lot unless you used ice cubes or snow rather than liquid water. Did you use ice or snow? And can you verify you have sodium hydroxide, NaOH, not another chemical such as sodium carbonate, Na2CO3?
 
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I agree with Dixie -- I suspect you'll need to throw this batch of soap in the trash.

Next time, please let us critique your recipe before you make more soap, so we can help you make a batch of soap that is safe and good. The fats you used in this batch will make a fairly harsh, drying soap that may become rancid quickly. My opinion is this is not a good blend of fats for making nice soap.

Are you following someone's tutorial for making this soap? If so, please share a link to the tutorial so we can understand the context a little better.

Did you use a soap recipe calculator to calculate the NaOH weight? If so, which one did you use? Or can you show why you used that much NaOH for this recipe?

Other things that concerned me --

You added about 1 ounce of clays/mud to a recipe calling for only 18 oz of fat. That's over 5% by weight, and I thnk that's a lot more than most people would use. Not to mention the minerals in Dead Sea salt might inhibit the soap from firming up.

It might be cold outside, but NaOH should still cause the lye solution to heat up a lot unless you used ice cubes or snow rather than liquid water. Did you use ice or snow? And can you verify you have sodium hydroxide, NaOH, not another chemical such as sodium carbonate, Na2CO3?
I just used sodium hydroxide. But I mixed it into some tea I made not just straight water. And then I put it outside but since temperature outside was 10 degrees i guess it cooled really fast.... I didn’t use ice or snow.

I just watched some videos on YouTube and just wanted to try because no ones gonna tell me how!

I hope it’s safe though, not poisonous do u think I can touch it to see the texture. Here are a couple photos.

I also follow the alkaline diet by dr. Sebi so i want to keep it all alkaline ingredients.
Thanks all....

I don’t know what NaOH is and how I was supposed to calculate it into lye calculator. You can see the website I used in the photo.

I feel like alkaline ingredients are all good regardless lol but we’ll see. Bless
 

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KimW

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So you DID use a soap calculator. That's a good start. Ok - so yeah - you left out two oils in the listing of your original post. You left out Olive Oil and Shea Butter. Assuming you added 2 Ounces of each of those, your lye amount is fine.

I'm not sure if you really mean that you don't know what NaOH is, so you may need to forgive me here. NaOH is sodium hydroxide, also known as lye. You'll notice the soap calculator you used says "NaOH" right below the words "Lye Table" ;) I hate to say it, but if you don't know that NaOH is Sodium Hydroxide I think you should not make anymore soap until you at least learn some terms and safe/best practices for making soap.

Making soap is so exciting and satisfying! However, it also demands a level of attentiveness, focus, caution and knowledge. So, I respectfully encourage you to take a few weeks to do some reading, researching and question asking before you make more soap. There are a lot of books in public libraries and online. One good place to start with videos is "Soaping 101" on Youtube. This forum (soapmakingforum.com) has a decent Beginner's Forum. You said you have no one to teach you about making soap, so maybe start with this Soaping 101 Video
, and then watch all the videos in the "Beginner Soapmaking Series". Then get to your local library as soon as you're able and checkout some "how to make soap" type books.

I think the best book I've seen for a beginner is this one that I actually read recently -
Smart Soapmaking: The Simple Guide to Making Soap Quickly, Safely, and Reliably, or How to Make Soap That's Perfect for You, Your Family, or Friends (Smart Soap Making Book 1)
This book is available online and is often in libraries, and you can ask your library to get it from another library if they don't have it.
You can find my review of this book here:
 

KimW

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Yay - I'm so glad you'll investigate. :)

If this was actually your recipe, as the picture of your recipe suggests:
10 oz coconut
2oz walnut oil
2oz hempseeds oil
2oz avocado oil
2oz. Grape seed oil
2oz Olive Oil
2oz Shea butter
3.24 lye
6 oz. tea water
Other additives

Then, no, I do not think your soap is poisonous. I think your soap will be perfectly safe to use. After you take it out of the molds, let it sit on its sides on plastic - or something that is not metal - out of direct sun and in a well ventilated spot for at least 4 weeks. I know, I know. But, this waiting time will allow the soap to dry/cure. You'll be reading more about that in your investigations.
P.S. Love the color of your soap, btw.
 

cmzaha

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I will note NaOH Sodium Hydroxide a type of lye is not Poisonious it is Caustic, just like any very high Alkaline such as KOH Potassium Hydroxide also a type of lye. You are simply not going to make soap out of all high alkaline products soap by nature is a high alkaline product and is a sodium or potassium salt of fatty acids.

You also should not be using teflon pans for pouring your soap batter in. Do not use any metals other than stainless steel coated or not and absolutely do not use any type of glass including pyrex in soapmaking.
 
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Hi OK thankyou! Just to clarify with you if you see this message... at what point does the lye(sodium hydroxide, NaOH) not become poisonous. Because the way it happened I mixed the lye into my steeped tea water and put it outside to cool and only ten-15 minutes later it was 60-80 degrees so idk if it went to super hot temperature. If that’s how it’s supposed to happen. And then I heated up the oils to 110-120. And the lady at the soap store said in her soap making class they don’t heat up the oils. So I’m guessing they mix it into the hot lye/water solution maybe an hour in while it’s still warm to melt the oils that way...

Ok thank you also I forgot to add this picture. Shoutout dr. Sebi. Alkaline bio African mineral

Also do you think if I added fonio flour or grain that would be good? You can add flours into Soapmaking? I’m thinking because I’m Africa I believe they rub fonio on pregnant women at some point of the pregnancy it helps with birth somehow. Bless
 

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Relle

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Seamoss, as you are new, please go to the Introduction Forum and tell us about yourself, so members get to know you.
 

Zany_in_CO

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I googled "Sea Moss Soap" and found this (click on it to follow the link):

Sea Moss Soap Handmade With Dr. Sebi Approved Wild-Crafted Golden Irish Sea Moss 1 5oz

This soap seems to have many beneficial qualities
• (Yoni Cleanse Unscented) Optimize vulva health and reduce odour, Prevent Yeast Infections and bacterial vaginosis, Balance Vaginal pH, Avoid irritation from harsh chemicals, found in other feminine products.
• Lemongrass- Reduces Oily Skin, Glowing Skin, Sterilize Your Pores, Strengthen Skin Tissues, Bacteria Killer, Natural Deodorant, Reduces Puffy Skin
• Acne Cleanse (Cinnamon Clove Lime)-Heals Acne, moisture the Skin, treat Dry Skin, Treatment Eczema, Complexion Enhancer
• Skin Healer (Lavender, Basil, Sage)-Heals Injured Skin, Helps Prevent Wrinkles, Detoxifies Skin, Soothes Eczema and Dry Skin Conditions

Here are the Ingredients:
Coconut Oil,
Grapeseed Oil,
Avocado Oil,
Hempseed Oil,
Shea Butter
Sea Moss Gel - Additive
Spring Water - Used to make the lye (NaOH) solution
Essential Oils - Used to scent the soap

As a first timer, I would not add anything other than the above until you get the hang of it. So I would delete the following: bentonite clay, Himalayan mud, Armenian clay, Dead Sea salt. Then use a soap calculator to determine the amount of each oil/butter to add. The one you used is from Majestic Mountain Sage -- that's the same one I used when I was first starting out! It's fairly simple to use and it has been around "forever" but it is limiting in many respects.

Like so many other soapers, I now use SoapCalc because it offers so much more information to help formulating recipes. It's a little complicated at first but once you get used to it you can spend hours tweaking a formula.

Tea Tree & Lavender essential oil blend is a very nice choice for scenting soap.

BTW, walnut oil is a lovely oil for mature skin, but it has a very short shelf life. I would leave it out and sub shea butter or something similar, if you have it available.

I wish you all the best in your endeavor... and a healthy dose of patience to get where you want to go! 😁
 
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I googled "Sea Moss Soap" and found this (click on it to follow the link):

Sea Moss Soap Handmade With Dr. Sebi Approved Wild-Crafted Golden Irish Sea Moss 1 5oz

This soap seems to have many beneficial qualities
• (Yoni Cleanse Unscented) Optimize vulva health and reduce odour, Prevent Yeast Infections and bacterial vaginosis, Balance Vaginal pH, Avoid irritation from harsh chemicals, found in other feminine products.
• Lemongrass- Reduces Oily Skin, Glowing Skin, Sterilize Your Pores, Strengthen Skin Tissues, Bacteria Killer, Natural Deodorant, Reduces Puffy Skin
• Acne Cleanse (Cinnamon Clove Lime)-Heals Acne, moisture the Skin, treat Dry Skin, Treatment Eczema, Complexion Enhancer
• Skin Healer (Lavender, Basil, Sage)-Heals Injured Skin, Helps Prevent Wrinkles, Detoxifies Skin, Soothes Eczema and Dry Skin Conditions

Here are the Ingredients:
Coconut Oil,
Grapeseed Oil,
Avocado Oil,
Hempseed Oil,
Shea Butter
Sea Moss Gel - Additive
Spring Water - Used to make the lye (NaOH) solution
Essential Oils - Used to scent the soap

As a first timer, I would not add anything other than the above until you get the hang of it. So I would delete the following: bentonite clay, Himalayan mud, Armenian clay, Dead Sea salt. Then use a soap calculator to determine the amount of each oil/butter to add. The one you used is from Majestic Mountain Sage -- that's the same one I used when I was first starting out! It's fairly simple to use and it has been around "forever" but it is limiting in many respects.

Like so many other soapers, I now use SoapCalc because it offers so much more information to help formulating recipes. It's a little complicated at first but once you get used to it you can spend hours tweaking a formula.

Tea Tree & Lavender essential oil blend is a very nice choice for scenting soap.

BTW, walnut oil is a lovely oil for mature skin, but it has a very short shelf life. I would leave it out and sub shea butter or something similar, if you have it available.

I wish you all the best in your endeavor... and a healthy dose of patience to get where you want to go! 😁
Thankyou yo much for this reply!!! How do you think I should add seamoss because it’s not something the calculators understand you know...
 

Zany_in_CO

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Thankyou yo much for this reply!!! How do you think I should add seamoss because it’s not something the calculators understand you know...
Right. Seamoss is an additive so it isn't in the soap calculations. I don't have any experience with using seamoss, but Kelp Soap has been discussed here before. I suggest you use the Search feature -- find the magnifying glass icon in the upper right corner of this page -- for kelp soap.

Quick question -- is your "sea moss" the same thing as "Irish Moss"?
 

dixiedragon

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NaOH = Sodium hydroxide = lye.
Technically you can also use KOH which is potassium hydroxide and is another form of lye, but generally speaking lye = Sodium hydroxide. When soapers mean KOH, they will say KOH.

If your soap has too much lye, that means there is not enough oil to combine with the lye. So you have free lye in your soap. This will cause skin irritation and even chemical burns, depending on how much you have. That's why using a lye calculator is important.

Soap is always alkaline, so you don't have to worry about keeping it alkaline.

Why did you choose the oils you did? Are you opposed to using lard (pig fat), tallow (beef fat) or palm oil?

Assuming you want to stick with the oils you have already used, maybe try:

15% coconut
20% shea
65% divided between olive and avocado
 

Zany_in_CO

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Yes same thing
Thank you for your reply. Then you may want to learn how to make Irish Sea Moss Gel which you can then use as all or part of your liquid for your soap. I've never done this but I imagine it will take some T & E (Trial & Error) to get it right. Here's a link to several YouTube videos (for cooking).

HOW TO MAKE IRISH SEA MOSS GEL
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=how+to+make+irish+sea+moss+gel

ETA: Oops! I see you already have the gel! I need to pay better attention. :oops: In that case, you will want to discount the amount of water you use to make the lye solution equal to the amount of gel which has water in it. I hope that makes sense?
 
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Thank you for your reply. Then you may want to learn how to make Irish Sea Moss Gel which you can then use as all or part of your liquid for your soap. I've never done this but I imagine it will take some T & E (Trial & Error) to get it right. Here's a link to several YouTube videos (for cooking).

HOW TO MAKE IRISH SEA MOSS GEL
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=how+to+make+irish+sea+moss+gel
Yes this is my website I sell seamoss www.AlkalineEmporium.com I just want to make soap for my business T & E

NaOH = Sodium hydroxide = lye.
Technically you can also use KOH which is potassium hydroxide and is another form of lye, but generally speaking lye = Sodium hydroxide. When soapers mean KOH, they will say KOH.

If your soap has too much lye, that means there is not enough oil to combine with the lye. So you have free lye in your soap. This will cause skin irritation and even chemical burns, depending on how much you have. That's why using a lye calculator is important.

Soap is always alkaline, so you don't have to worry about keeping it alkaline.

Why did you choose the oils you did? Are you opposed to using lard (pig fat), tallow (beef fat) or palm oil?

Assuming you want to stick with the oils you have already used, maybe try:

15% coconut
20% shea
65% divided between olive and avocado
Yes opposed to any ingredients not on the dr. Sebi alkaline foods list I posted in first post.

all ingredients on this list are medicine. So I would Like to keep it to the alkalinefood list. Thanks for your input!

I felt the soap today and maybe it is a little slimy? Well 5 more weeks to cure and we’ll see I guess!....
 

dixiedragon

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One issue with your recipe is that hempseed oil and grapeseed oil have short shelf lives. They really aren't bringing anything good to the soap and they are likely to make your soap go rancid. I'm not sure about walnut oil. On the other hand, Avocado and Olive oil have longer shelf lives and make better soap in general.
 
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