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Parfumerie

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Hello, I'm just about ready to make my 1st soap I think I'm gonna do cold process but considering hot process, I found a basic recipe on soapqueen.com


Basic Cold Process Recipe (Super fat 5%):
8 oz. Coconut Oil (24%)
15 oz. Olive Oil (44%)
11 oz. Palm Oil (32%)
4.8 oz. Lye
11.2 oz. Distilled Water

https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-...ck-to-basics-simple-gentle-cold-process-soap/


I plan to add activated charcoal to half and bentonite green clay to the other and layer it, I'd like it to be a moisturizing bar of soap do you guys think I should adjust any ratios, add other oils or remove any of the additives?
 
That looks okay for starters. I personally would reverse the Palm and Olive. Also, be sure to run it through a lye calculator to make sure the lye/water is correct. Also, measure in grams ( print recipe from a soap calc) is better than ounces.

Also, soap is not moisturizing, depending on the recipe it can be less stripping of the natural oils from our skin.

Good Luck!
 
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I think it seems fine. It's not a recipe that I use, but I think it's a good recipe to start out with. My concern here is actually the layers - that's actually a bit of a pain. Be open to the layers being uneven or bumpy. Mix your charcoal and your clay with 1 TBSP or so of water, oil (taken from your recipe), or glycerin. I recommend glycerin, myself.
 
If it were me, I'd do 50% palm, 30% olive, 20% coconut, but that's a personal preference for keeping olive below 1/3 of a balanced bar and limiting coconut to a fifth. There's nothing wrong with it as written.

I'd skip the layers your first time. Pick one and do that. Layers require a much thicker trace to be stable and you're going to be too anxious your first time to wait for it. Alternatively, if you MUST do the layers do them side-by-side by separating your mold with a piece of cardboard cut to size placed down the middle. Secure it in place and pour both sides, then remove after the tamping down. But I would definitely not try horizontal layers the first time.
 
I would forget the layers and clay, keep in simple until you see how you like the recipe, how it traces etc. There is plenty of time and soap batches ahead to try additives and colorants.

That looks okay for starters. I personally would reverse the Palm and Olive. Also, be sure to run it through a lye calculator to make sure the lye/water is correct. Also, measure in grams ( print recipe from a soap calc) is better than ounces.
I would do the same as Shari a mentions. I would agree with Brewer George with the 50% Palm but palm can thicken quickly
 
An in-the-bowl-swirl is easy. Take out a bit, for example 1/3 of the batter, and dump it in another bowl or jug. Color it with activated charcoal, and dump it back in the main bowl of uncolored soap in a steady stream and from various hights, and moving the stream in a random pattern, like splatting paint. Then just dump everything in the mold. If it thickens to become porridge or is too thin, it doesn't matter for an in-the-bowl-swirl. It will just be a different design, beautiful anyway. If it becomes very thick and blobby, just swirl it a bit in the bowl with a chopstick or the spatulua before you dump everything it in the mold.
 
Also, soap is not moisturizing, depending on the recipe it can be less stripping of the natural oils from our skin.

Good Luck!

What about lotion bars is that different from soap?

Thank you all for the input I'll take it all into consideration and post my results :)
 
What about lotion bars is that different from soap?

Thank you all for the input I'll take it all into consideration and post my results :)
A lotion bar is not saponified.

The properties of an oil can be totally different from the properties of the salt of that oil (soap). Coconut is the most extreme example - coconut oil is good on the skin, sodium cocoate (saponified coocnut oil using sodium hydroxide) is not
 
Bubbles, yes, but also that coconut easily can be found everywhere. Which is important to many that don't have a soap supply store next door. Some don't even have a soap supply store in their country, like me and many other people from small countries, and then the availability gets more important.
 
I'd also flip the olive oil and palm oil in the recipe and run it through a soap calculator. but, for your 1st batch of soap, I'm more concerned with you trying to do layers than I am with the recipe. That recipe will make soap and it is relatively cheap (which is great if it fails and you have to throw it away). Your first batches are about learning HOW to make the soap. Just concentrate on making something you are proud of.
 
I would just do a plain basic soap for your first go to get an understanding of and experience with the actual process. Then when that is under your belt start getting fancier.
 
I kind of thought I was but I'm going to omit the additives and alter the ratios based on the advice given, all I need is my scale which I'll be getting this weekend!

One other question - well a multifaceted one: cold vs hot process.. is there any benefit to a slower cure time and are aesthetics the only difference in the finished soap, does anything besides drying occur in the cure (molecular bonding etc) and has anyone played around with dessicants to speed up a cold process
 
Hot process isn't a faster cure time. Safe to use (that is fully saponified) is not the same thing as fully cured and at its best. Even CP will be saponified and safe within a day or two. Curing to best effect is quite a lot more than simply drying. Dessicants are actually counter productive. They don't speed cure but can over dry, causing warping.

HP will often use more water, actually. HP is also quite a bit more work, IMO. The only reason to do it is to use things that don't work well in CP like stearic acid or really accelerating fragrances.
 
HP will often use more water, actually. HP is also quite a bit more work, IMO. The only reason to do it is to use things that don't work well in CP like stearic acid or really accelerating fragrances.

Another important thing with HP, is that you can decide what is going to be soap and what is going to be superfat. I follow some HP-soapmakers on Youtube, and it seems like that is the most important reason behind them doing hot process instead of cold process. They make soap of cheap fats and use the expensive butters as superfat, for example.

I have also read that castile soaps gets better done HP than CP. But I have no clue if that is the case or not.

Another reason, apart from accelerating fragrances, is that they don't run the risk of their scents morphing or fading because they are eaten by lye. I understand that they can use citrus essential oils in HP as well, which will disappear in cold process. But I'm not too sure of that, I might have mixed things up. They also don't have to worry about trace, they just stickblend everything to thick trace and that's it. Partial gel does not exist in HP. No soda ash either. But of course there are problems with HP that those doing CP don't have, like that the soap suddenly can volcano out of the crock and end up all over the countertop + the floor. It can start to solidify before you have got it into the mold (I have experienced that).

How much work HP is depends on their method of making HP. Stickblender hot process (SBHP)/countertop hot prosess is very fast. I have done it myself, and it became quite a lot of work because I messed it up, did not have the right equipment etc, etc. But for me the problems started after saponification. But going from oils and lye to soap, that went as fast as a lightening! For those who are experienced enough to know what to do and what not, and actually can follow recipes without experimenting with everything, they can make HP in a hurry. I of course messed everything up with my experimental methods, that I have learned is not too clever to start with for an absolute beginner in soapmaking.

I think there are many reasons to do HP. I'm not sure though if I will do it again soon, since I now have a recipe I like (I just have to boost the bubbles a bit and it is close to perfection), and that recipe does not have a particular oil going to superfat or anything. I will see when my fragrance oils arrives from Australia, if some of them requires HP, if not, I will make my recipe CP. But I do like HP, it is quite fun when the volcano action starts. I think I have done 3 HP soaps, and two of them ended in the garbage. One was a milk soap, and I had no clue then that the horrible ammonia smell is normal, so it ended up in the trash as a total failure, even if it most likely was just fine. I have not tried the slow HP method, cooking in a crockpot for hours. That seems totally boring and absolutely unnecessary, since it just is to warm the oils to a higher temperature to begin with, dump in hot lye and your HP soap will be done in almost an instant. I don't see any point in doing slow HP, watching over a crockpot for hours when HP really does not take that long at all. If you have 10-20 soaps to make at once (like Essential Soaps on Youtube), well, then it makes sense to use the slow HP method. The fast method would be almost impossible for more than 1 soap at a time.
 
Experience will matter for both methods, of course, but I still feel that CP is slightly easier/faster. It's easy to make a false equivalence between the two methods by not choosing similar finished products. The vast majority of HP soap is going to be a single color with no decoration, whereas I suspect it's pretty rare that many CP soaps are made without at least an ITP swirl - and many are more complicated still. It's easy to compare that basic HP soap that just takes a few minutes to a CP design with several more process steps.

FWIW, I can have a single-color CP soap in the mold in 20 minutes or less using prebatched lye solution. Getting everything ready and putting it away afterward takes longer than the soaping process itself. I don't usually do that, but I can. Conversely there are advanced HP processes that allow multiple colors, swirls and the like, but they are more rarely performed (I think) and take more time and effort.

So while it is probably fair to say that the most common methodology of HP is faster/easier than the most common methodology of CP, the truth is that they both have a wide range of functional processes that are probably pretty close to the same thing. After all, they're both performing the same chemical process on the same basic components. My preference for CP could easily be down to greater experience with it.

You might also consider that the idea that HP soapers can "choose" their superfat is somewhat controversial. It's conventional wisdom, for sure. In fact, I'd say it's probably universally considered truth among more casual soapers. But the actual truth is ... murkier than that. I'm not well-versed enough on the science to attempt to explain it. Perhaps someone better *cough*DeeAnna*cough* will try. ;)
 
The last first. I read earlier that DeeAnna wrote something about it. I could not remember exactly what, so I did not mention it. But it was something with that expensive butters degrading down to fatty acids during curing time, so what you added to the soap to begin with is not what you will get in the end, if I don't remember completely wrong. I really don't understand fats and oils in the first place. And I definately don't understand butters and how they differ from oils apart from having more stearic acid. But what DeeAnna wrote quite some time ago about the butters added after saponification in HP, does make sense. Everything changes with time, so it would be strange if not time should change for example shea butter in one way or the other.

This is far out, but I think oil paintings might be a good example. Pigments and oil gets mixed and painted on a canvas. To begin with it is just that, oil and pigments. But with time the oil hardens to rock hard, like glass. Time, oxygen and light makes the paint crack up like enamel on ceramics. But it was just oil and pigments to begin with. The superfats in soap must also change in one way or another. So I think it makes sense. I will try to find out what DeeAnna exactly wrote.

Yes, you are right. CP is much faster. I did a CP last, and it was so quick that I was shaky afterwards. I had of course messed it up, again, by dumping boiling hot lye in my cold process, and thought I had to mold it quick before it became unmanageable. It went just fine, and I made designs too. Not exactly tall and skinny shimmy, as supposed to, i had too much hurry, so it ended up with blobs of dark brown in orange soap, and some tiger stripes. Not bad.

Yes, it is the same process in the end, unless you need you soap to be saponified before you add an ingredient that can be altered by active lye. Judged by Youtube, I have the impression that many HP soapers experiment with adding this and that before the cook, and this and that after the cook. Some add a lot of different things to their soaps in different stages. For example did Shalebrook Handcrafted Soap add apple cider vinegar after the cook to boost bubbles. And those who believes in skin benefits of everything, they add all sorts of benefitial things after the cook. I don't believe in such things myself for a wash off product. Hardly for a leave on product either.
 
So I think I'm gonna do hot process later today to force the gel and shorter curing stage, can you do it in a crockpot without the lid, a friend gave me one but didnt have one and if I don't have to buy a new one that would be great
 

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