First batch fail ??

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Makingsoap21

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Location
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Hello everyone! I’ve made my first real batch of soap . I’m not too sure if this is normal for the particular soap I made and know it’s tricky when working with only coconut oil . I made my batch July 26 . Saturday night and took it out of the mold july 27 9:30 am , when I tried to cut the soap bar the bar cut but then broke in big pieces . Some of them came out good but it was extremely hard . I used the soap last night to see if it was any good ( i know I’m suppose to wait 6-8 weeks ) my hands look a bit flaky after using it I thought it may have been paper towels from drying my hands . I’m not sure if this soap was a total fail and if I should just throw it away . the soap feels kinda slimy and velvety when using and you can feel it clean all oils off the skin . I had 3 other family members try it out and they had no skin flakiness or any reaction . I do have some what sensitive skin so I’m thinking it maybe just be the frangrance I used Because I made a sample bar before and with no fragrance or mica and did not get the same reaction . I listed below the recipe I used for the big batch and for the single bar I made
I am also attaching pictures for the soap I made with how my hand looks .

Big batch
60 Oz coconut oil
17.45 distilled water
8.72 Lye
2.72 fragrance

Sample bar
3 Oz coconut oil
0.51 Oz lye
1 fluid Oz of water
Don’t have photo of sample bar
 

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100% CO soap needs to be cut at about 3-4 hours tops. Also, what kind of superfat did you do? 100% CO requires a 20% SF and it may still be drying to many. It needs a 6-8 week cure personally. I only make 100% CO soap with a 0%Sf for cleaning and light laundry.
 
100% CO soap needs to be cut at about 3-4 hours tops. Also, what kind of superfat did you do? 100% CO requires a 20% SF and it may still be drying to many. It needs a 6-8 week cure personally. I only make 100% CO soap with a 0%Sf for cleaning and light laundry.
By the Calculations of the lye calculator I used . I believe it should be about a 10% super fat . I’m still really new to this , I bought a ton of coconut oil so I don’t want it to go to waste . do you recommend another oil i can add to the recipe that’ll make it less drying ?? Thank you so much for your reply :)
 
By the Calculations of the lye calculator I used . I believe it should be about a 10% super fat . I’m still really new to this , I bought a ton of coconut oil so I don’t want it to go to waste . do you recommend another oil i can add to the recipe that’ll make it less drying ?? Thank you so much for your reply :)

A 10% Superfat would never be enough for my skin. Coconut oil will last quite a long time. If you're not opposed to using animal fat Lard makes an awesome soap along with CO. You can get lard at most grocery stores. You could do 80% Lard and 20% CO. 5% Superfat or 60% Lard, 20% CO & 20% Olive Oil. Also, if you do a search on the forum you will find a lot of suggestions.
 
Do you think the soap could make a good shampoo bar??
You have asked a loaded question there. By definition, "shampoo" isn't "soap" since shampoo contains synthetic detergents that lower the pH to be less damaging to your hair.

There are people who can wash their hair with bar soap (I am one of the lucky few and in fact, used that exact recipe for many years). But far more people suffer serious hair damage from trying to wash their hair with soap. You can search the forums to read more about it, and I'd recommend that you do so before you try it. You will want to know the risks going in so you can decide whether it is worth it to you.
 
Hi there @Makingsoap21
I'm new to the forum, but with my first soap I also tried to use a small sample piece of my soap within a week of making it, and It also dried my hands and left it flaky. But after curing for several weeks it was Way more gentle. The longer you cure the better it will be. Its like making wine, It needs to mature to be great.
Coconut oil in soap is very cleansing and drying. I personally wouldn't use it on my hair, but it will Definitely make a phenomenal stain stick for your laundry.
 
Hi there @Makingsoap21
I'm new to the forum, but with my first soap I also tried to use a small sample piece of my soap within a week of making it, and It also dried my hands and left it flaky. But after curing for several weeks it was Way more gentle. The longer you cure the better it will be. Its like making wine, It needs to mature to be great.
Coconut oil in soap is very cleansing and drying. I personally wouldn't use it on my hair, but it will Definitely make a phenomenal stain stick for your laundry.
Not with a 20% SF in it. It will leave stains behind.
 
Yes, you will want 0% SF or even negative SF for laundry stain sticks, laundry washing powder, or dishwashing soap. That way, there is no unsaponified oil left which might stain your clothes or leave greasy streaks on your dishes. :)

And I agree with you, @Elizevt , that curing makes all the difference in the mildness of the soap. I recently found some that I'd put away for donation about a year ago, only because the soap seemed very basic - not bad, but not the feel I prefer in my soap lather. After sitting in the closet for a year, the lather and conditioning are now quite lovely. Mind you, I don't want to cure all my soaps for a year, but it goes to show that at least as it relates to soap, time does "cure" (pun intended 😁).
 
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Hi @Elizevt,

The person who posted the question made a 20% SF soap. The purpose of 20% SF is to make it less harsh when you are using it on the skin for washing hands, body, etc.

In contrast, you will want 0% SF or even negative SF for laundry stain sticks, laundry washing powder, or dishwashing soap. That way, there is no unsaponified oil left which might stain your clothes or leave greasy streaks on your dishes.

So unfortunately, the person who posted the question cannot use this soap for washing clothes, bc it has the high superfat.

HTH:)
Thank you! I hope once the soap is completely cured it’s good to use ! Crossing my fingers 🤞🏼
 
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