Finally, a decent shave soap!

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Sep 15, 2013
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After many failed attempts and even some complete disasters, I've finally formulated a legitimate working shave soap. There are tweaks to be made, but considering how hard it has been to find information or even a good starting place, I thought I would share what I have. Here is my hot process shave soap:

Kokum Butter 33%
Stearic Acid 33%
Castor Oil 14%
Coconut Oil 10%
Shea Butter 10%

I ran this through's lye calculator with an 8% superfat and a 25% lye solution of 35% NaOH and 65% KOH.

Trace occurred immediately, and I cooked it in a double boiler for 45 minutes.

This soap lathers beautifully with a badger hair brush and the shave was very pleasant. As good as many artisan soaps I have purchased. I added the essential oil too soon after taking it off the heat, so the scent was faint as most of it evaporated.

Now I have a question. In a hot process soap, how do I quantify the rate of evaporation during the cooking process? Basically, I want to make a five pound batch, but I know that a considerable amount of water will evaporate while it's cooking, so I won't end up with a full five pounds. How do I account for that?


Well-Known Member
Jun 23, 2013
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I don't know of any way to see how much water evaporates except to make a batch weigh it fresh and then after the cure. Congrats on coming up with a recipe you love..

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