Fatty Acid Profile

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J-Soaper

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Without knowing anything else about it, what would you think of a soap with this fatty acid profile? See attached image.
 

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20% coconut
8% castor
20% hemp
+ some blend of palm/shea/cocoa/lard/tallow to pull the longevity number onto a reasonable level
tl;dr: Yes, fine, why not? Might need an hour or two more patience until unmoulding, and then a good cure (better 8 than 6 weeks, the longer the better), but then it'd be a great bar of soap!
PUFAs are around the region where low superfat and ROE/chelators become imperative to avoid DOS on the long run.
 
Seems like, with all of the bars in the graph in the green zone, that it would be a great bar of soap. But then, I really like 100% Coconut Oil soap and none of the bars are green for that.

Don't have any at the 4-week mark yet -- much less eight week.

My biggest complaint about soap making is that you try some new things and you can't tell whether you like it or not for two months.
 
with all of the bars in the graph in the green zone, that it would be a great bar of soap.
Well, sort of. These numbers are only weighted sums of fatty acids, they aren't magic. Most importantly, they have been designed with a specific type of recipe in mind (one could also say: prejudice).
In my opinion (and that of many other soapers), the Bubbly and Cleansing number are next to worthless, and their “green” intervals even misleading. The time-proven “no more than 20% coconut” rule of thumb is hidden in there, but you have to know where to search for it. Contrary, the “traffic light” intervals fail to predict 100%CO and castile as reputable recipes, let alone the role of superfat and non-oil additions (salt, sugar) to hardness.
On the other hand, the “longevity” number really has its value to predict if one is happy with a nice hardening up bar, or disappointed by a bar that soaks up water and dissolves quickly.

My biggest complaint about soap making is that you try some new things and you can't tell whether you like it or not for two months.
So true … don't tell anyone I've tried out my cheese soap mere six days after making it, and it already gave off lovely lather! Can't wait another 5 or 7 weeks until officially cured!
 
So true … don't tell anyone I've tried out my cheese soap mere six days after making it, and it already gave off lovely lather! Can't wait another 5 or 7 weeks until officially cured!
I essentially always pour a tiny test bar (20 grams or so), so I can test it out anytime I want. I almost always try to wash my hands with whatever scrap I can scrape together from the pan.
 
Most importantly, they have been designed with a specific type of recipe in mind (one could also say: prejudice).
This is the part I've thought about the most. Who says this range is idea for that characteristic?

Nonetheless, I did formulate a recipe that gets all of the bars in the green. It also has lots of additives: citric acid, sodium lactate, powdered milk, powdered Aloe Vera gel, finely ground oat flour, sugar, salt.

I think it's going too be to creamy for my taste and not enough thick heavy lather.
 
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Nonetheless, I did formulate a recipe that gets all of the bars in the green. It also has lots of additives: citric acid, sodium lactate, powdered milk, powdered Aloe Vera gel, finely ground oat flour, sugar, salt.

I think it's going too be to creamy for my taste and not enough thick heavy lather.
The problem with getting "all the bars in the green" is that not all of these factors are important to each soaper, or even to the different soaps a soaper might make.

For instance, the lowest cleansing number recommended (12) is often higher than many soapers want for their soaps. For the many of us who began making soap bc we have dry or sensitive skin, the cleansing range shown in most calculators is ridiculously stripping to our skin. I personally like to be at 12 or below, not above.

I also don't care about longevity. I always have way too much soap, so I'm fine with short-lived soaps that get used up fast, as long as they have the other qualities that are important for my fussy skin.
 
As the Owl alluded to, there is so much more going on than the acid profiles in soaping that I don't actually give it any attention whatsoever. When looking for "similar" oils I look at the profile, but with the thought in mind that it only shows part of the story rather than the whole story (example being lard and Shea which are similar on paper but quite different in a soap). But if you put a gun to my head and asked me for even an approximation of the profile of my favourite recipes I would have no idea at all!

And as for the cure issue, there are enough different types of soap that you can make soap once a week and by the time you're back to the first recipe, the bars have had a 4 week cure
 
Nonetheless, I did formulate a recipe that gets all of the bars in the green. It also has lots of additives: citric acid, sodium lactate, powdered milk, powdered Aloe Vera gel, finely ground oat flour, sugar, salt.
See now I probably wouldn't put ALL that in one batch. I do a coconut milk soap, an aloe soap, an oat milk soap and a rice water soap for example. if you put everything in the one soap, then you'll have no variety.
 
The important thing to know is why you are adding each ingredient. There is no need for both salt and SL. SL does all that salt does, plus some. But if you are making a salt bar, you don’t need SL to harden it! Or if you want more natural sounding ingredients on your label, you might choose salt instead of SL.

No need for both sugar and AV powder - AV does what sugar does, plus some. But you might choose sugar instead due to cost.

I do make a bar that has CA, SL, GM, AV, and colloidal oats. It has lovely lather, is non-drying, works well with my fussy skin, is easy to unmold, and doesn’t leave soap scum. It works for me and is loved by family and friends.

So there is nothing wrong per se with lots of ingredients as long as each has its purpose. 🙂
 
I essentially always pour a tiny test bar (20 grams or so), so I can test it out anytime I want.
:thumbup: :) I do that too.
I think it's going too be to creamy for my taste and not enough thick heavy lather.
I think so too.
lots of additives: citric acid, sodium lactate, powdered milk, powdered Aloe Vera gel, finely ground oat flour, sugar, salt.
Overkill. You can make great soap without any of those additives. As others have said, they are good to have them in your soap makers tool box to use when you really need them for whatever benefit they bring to the formula.

I am not familiar with the soap calc you used so I really can't comment on how to make it better. The best advice I can offer is to start with a basic recipe like the Trinity of Oils; eliminate all those additives; use the default settings on SoapCalc; make a few small batches until you get it nailed and tweak to your heart's content from there. ;)
 

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