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Do you like your dual lye soap?

Discussion in 'Lye-Based Soap Forum' started by lenarenee, May 27, 2017.

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  1. Jul 5, 2018 #41

    cmzaha

    cmzaha

    cmzaha

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    My skin likes 10 the best but will tolerate 15%. I have tried up to 17% and it is just to drying for me. I recently tried a soap I received where CO is the second ingredient and I absolutely cannot use it. I am guessing it is a soap with 20% or more. I do notice a lather difference between the 10% and 15% which is why I use the dual lye, keeping in mind I am using either 45% tallow or 45% Palm. Sometimes I use less palm is if I decide to add in shea or coco butter. Both my vegan and non-vegan soap are low in liquid oil
     
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  2. Jul 5, 2018 #42

    redhead1226

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    Thank you for explaining this to me. I clearly understand the issue of palm oil in products and the issues surrounding deforestation. I do not use Palm oil or PKO in any of my products. And I have struggled to come up with a soap I like for my vegan son and friends but have decided to stay away from using Palm for the obvious reasons. I'm a lard girl! Now the only thing I will say on that front is if they ever decide that pigs are endangered and we shouldn't use pork products - all I can say is POOR PIGGIES! lol If you do not mind reporting back on your water reduction I would appreciate it. This could be an interesting alternative for soap for my son. Thanks.
     
  3. Jul 5, 2018 #43

    Dean

    Dean

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    I unmolded and cut my 1.1 water DL soap this AM. It was absolutely perfect! Not too soft and not too hard. The water reduction did the trick.

    I'm wondering if the KOH might have been a little high on the last batch. I do test batches at 8-9 oz. 5% KOH is <2 grams. That's like a thimble size. It seems that with my scale its hard to get an accurate read at that low.

    BTW for some time now I've been blending with just a wire whisk for a minute or two . I don't know if its the SW or water reduction or both that causes my soap to trace so fast. I abandoned the immersion blender cuz the soap goes instantly to thick trace with it.

    On another note...do you guys remember that post about a woman that sold week old soap because her "proprietary" secret allowed a short cure? I'm wondering if she was doing something similar...no or very low lauric/myristic for mildness, water discount to reduce evaporation time, DL and/or sugar for lather. BTW, I do full cures myself.
     
    Last edited: Jul 5, 2018
  4. Jul 8, 2018 #44

    penelopejane

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    Hi Earlene,
    As always when one of these KOH threads comes up I rush back to my soaps and do another comparison. I use both soaps in the shower at the same time. One on one side of my body and one on the other. This avoids relying on my memory for comparison.

    It is quite puzzling why my tests of dual lye and single soaps don't correlate with other people on the forum except for your most recent results.

    I sort of dismissed your idea of doing a fair comparison with soaps of the same age.
    But now I think I have discovered that the older a soap gets the less the KOH effects the bubbliness of the soap.

    I cure my soaps for a minimum of 3 months. So this might have been effecting my results. I have soaps that are a year old so I have a lot to compare.

    I am finding that "young" multi oil soaps less than 3 months old do produce a few more bubbles than older multi oil soaps. Can you see if you get this result or do you not have enough young KOH soaps to compare?
     
  5. Jul 8, 2018 #45

    Dean

    Dean

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    I just did a hand lather test of 2 soaps that are essentially the same recipie. Soap 1 was 3 weeks old and single lye. Soap 2 was 1 wk old and DL. 2 produced less lather than 1 and was snotty like OO soap. I do not use OO for that reason. Snot belongs in Kleenex not soap. Although it may b too early to conclude since neither soap has fully cured, Im inclined to think that DL is a bit of an urban soaping myth. I personally wont use DL again. Alternatively, I’ll try 10% CO and see if I can get a few bubbles wo face-fry. If that fails, Ill just make peace with the creamy lather of a soap free of stripping/drying lauric/myristic.
     
    Last edited: Jul 8, 2018
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  6. Jul 8, 2018 #46

    DeeAnna

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    "...Im inclined to think that DL is a bit of an urban soaping myth...."

    Nope, it's not a myth, urban or otherwise, but not every good idea works for everyone all of the time. There's no need to disrespect a valid technique just because it doesn't happen to work with your style of soap making.

    It's a learning experience. You learned something. Move on to something that works better for you.
     
  7. Jul 8, 2018 #47

    earlene

    earlene

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    I'll take a look through my soaps and see if I have any that are young. I kind of think I don't, but I'll check. It seems plausible to me because during the longer cure, the evolution of the crystalline structure in the soap is making some changes that we do already know about, so why not this one, too?
     
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  8. Jul 11, 2018 #48

    itchyandscratchy

    itchyandscratchy

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    I make the dual lye soap
    Recipe from Loving soap shaving soap. Its a big hit. All the menfolk love it. Thick, dense stable lather
     
  9. Jul 11, 2018 #49

    penelopejane

    penelopejane

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    I think you need to cure your soap for 6 weeks before you do experiments on them.
     
  10. Jul 11, 2018 #50

    penelopejane

    penelopejane

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    Have you tried pure Castile cured for a year for your son? What about the “shampoo bar” on this forum - not for hair but for a body soap for your son? Both are really hard after a few months cure without soy wax.
     
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  11. Jul 11, 2018 #51

    penelopejane

    penelopejane

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    1:1 water lye will trace very fast. The soap produced will be the same weight as a 2 week cured soap but it won’t be cured it just has less water.

    If you mix your KOH 1:1 with water (for example say 100g KOH:100g water) you have a master batch. If your recipe requires for example 100g NaOH and 5g KOH and 150g water you and can measure out 10g of master batch KOH. But you have to subtract the 5g of water in the master batch from your recipe water.
    Water 150-5=145g water
    KOH masterbatch (water and KOH) 10g
    NaOH 100g

    It’s easier to weigh 10g than 5.
     

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