Dishwashing Liquid

Discussion in 'The Photo Gallery' started by MikeInPdx, Nov 1, 2013.

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  1. Nov 1, 2013 #1

    MikeInPdx

    MikeInPdx

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    ....
     
    Last edited: Nov 5, 2013
  2. Nov 1, 2013 #2

    Hazel

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    That looks great! I wouldn't have thought of adding soybean to the soap.

    What splatter? ;)
     
  3. Nov 1, 2013 #3

    Pepsi Girl

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    HA HA I laugh at you! I was just "cleaning" up after making some lotions and potions, in my soaping room. And I was thinking ( actually I was talking to my husband's dogs, which is completely different from talking to yourself) how thankful I am that I don't soap in my kitchen! I also mention to both Sam and Sprocket I honestly don't even know how to be a clean nut. Not that I'm a slob, my space in neat and somewhat tidy but " how do you clean up all that oil and wax"?
    And you can see how interested they are?

    image.jpg
     
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  4. Nov 1, 2013 #4

    Pepsi Girl

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    O I completely forgot to say "great job"! :oops: it takes so little to distract me
     
  5. Nov 1, 2013 #5

    Pepsi Girl

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    Sorry I couldn't help myself right after I took that picture Sprocket did the big Yawn as if to emphasize my point!
    :eh: why are they upside down again!

    image.jpg
     
    Last edited: Nov 1, 2013
  6. Nov 3, 2013 #6

    MikeInPdx

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    Cute babies...upside down or not. :p

    I have five little ones...two Pomeranians...two chihuahuas...a rat terrier (and a patridge in a pear tree).

    Sent from my SGH-T679 using Soap Making mobile app
     
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  7. Nov 3, 2013 #7

    MikeInPdx

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    LOL...wish it was the only spatter...I need to deep clean.

    I like soybean oil in liquid soap...it has a nice skin feel and makes very clear soap for cheap.

    I don't care for it in bar soap because I get DOS if I use much more than 10-15%.

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  8. Nov 3, 2013 #8

    Hazel

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    Don't worry about a little spatter. I'd be embarrassed if anyone saw my kitchen. Thanks for the info about the soybean oil. I've only made a few batches of LS and I'm not very good at it. I stopped because I felt I was just wasting oils. I'll have to try it again using soybean because it would be good for practice.
     
  9. Nov 3, 2013 #9

    MikeInPdx

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    I will share a couple of tips. Stick blend until you get soap on a stick. Cover the pot and place in a 170F oven. Check every half an hour for the first hour or two and stir if it separates. Then just leave it covered in the 170F oven overnight. LEAVE THE OVEN ON.

    Next morning just weigh and dilute the paste. 1/4 oz borax per lb of paste will neutralize it. Wait to dissolve or mash it with a potato masher and stick blend. It will clear up after a bit. :)

    Edited to add: You cannot overcook the paste this way and you do not have to mess with a clarity check...it is definitely done.

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    Last edited: Nov 3, 2013
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  10. Nov 3, 2013 #10

    Pepsi Girl

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    So would you mind sharing the full recipe,I've never made dish soap but I'd like to try.
     
  11. Nov 3, 2013 #11

    MikeInPdx

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    It is easy. 70% soybean, 30% coconut and KOH for zero superfat according to either the Brambleberry or Summerbee Meadow calculator (both calculate for impurities in KOH).

    Weigh everything and get your oils in the crockpot on high. When the CO is melted...add the weighed KOH to weighed water. Add to melted oils once the lye solution clears.

    Pulse with your stick blender...alternate hand stirring and stick blending....otherwise you will fry your SB.

    Be patient and keep pulsing and stirring. It will keep wanting to separate...stir through it. After a while, you will start seeing a lot of steam coming from the soap...that means you are almost there. Soon it will go from blendable to soap on a stick...lol...this is what you want.

    Remove the crockpot liner and place it...covered with foil...in a 170F oven. Check it every 30 minutes or so for the first hour or two and stir if it is separated. Leave in the 170F oven covered with the OVEN ON overnight. This will finish the cook and no need for a clarity check. It will be done.

    Next morning weigh your paste. Weigh out 1.5 to 2 times the water as you have paste. Bring to a full rolling boil.Dissolve 1/4 oz water per pound of soap paste and add to boiling water. Add the soap paste and mash up thoroughly with a potato masher. When it is mostly dissolved hit it with the stick blender to get the remaining pieces. It will cloud up but will clear again.

    While it is still warm...stir in 1-2% of the total weight of the finished soap of EO or FO...this may or may not cloud it.

    Let cool and bottle it. It can be used right away but it is better if you let it sit and sequester for a week.

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  12. Nov 3, 2013 #12

    hellogorgeous

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    How are you all getting your ovens to 170?? Lowest mine goes is 220 and it's a newer oven.


    Sent from my iPhone using Soap Making
     
  13. Nov 3, 2013 #13

    Hazel

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    Thanks so much for the tips and advice! It's very generous of you to share. I'll definitely give it a try but I won't be able to do it until next weekend. I wouldn't want to rush off to work and forget it was in the oven. Plus I'll have to buy some soybean oil. I have some which I use for baking but it's probably gone rancid by now. I don't bake very often. :oops:

    This is just for washing dishes, right? Would you add in some extra oil if you wanted it for washing hands?
     
  14. Nov 3, 2013 #14

    MikeInPdx

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    I use it for hands too...its a little harsh though. You could always drop the CO to 20% and up the soy to 70% and recalculate the lye. You can also use lard if you dont mind the cloudiness.

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  15. Nov 3, 2013 #15

    Hazel

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    I don't mind cloudiness. But I was wondering if it was possible to add a little glycerin to make it less harsh. Have you tried glycerin?
     
  16. Nov 3, 2013 #16

    MikeInPdx

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    No I haven't. But you can use warmed glycerin to make your lye water. Soaping101 on youtube has an excellent tutorial on this method.

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  17. Nov 3, 2013 #17

    Hazel

    Hazel

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    I've made the glycerin method LS. It's actually the only batch I was happy with and thought turned out well. My problem is making the regular LS with water. I don't know why. The batches look great for awhile and then gradually separate. Somewhere I'm making a mistake. I suppose I'd eventually have figured it out if I hadn't given up after the third fiasco.
     
  18. Nov 3, 2013 #18

    CaraBou

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    Excellent instructions, thank you Mike! I have been wanting to try LS -- maybe these will get me there this winter.
     
  19. Nov 3, 2013 #19

    MikeInPdx

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    Try the longer cook and going light on the neutalizing...that may help.

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  20. Nov 3, 2013 #20

    Hazel

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    Thanks for the advice! It's been a long time but I know I cooked the paste a lot longer than I normally do for HP. I remember for sure one batch was well over 3 hours. Is than not long enough? I used citric acid for neutralizing based on advice from agriffin. Is borax better? I kind of think it was just over diluting which was the main issue. I don't remember for sure and I'll have to try it again.
     

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