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GrayWolf

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How do you know what the proper size is for your tapers? Do you go by how many times you dip them or do you use an inside caliper to measure. I think that something like 7/8 of an inch is the norm for a good taper ??
 

Wax Munky

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GrayWolf said:
How do you know what the proper size is for your tapers? Do you go by how many times you dip them or do you use an inside caliper to measure. I think that something like 7/8 of an inch is the norm for a good taper ??
For me,the size depends on the order.
I make cut and carved wedding sets. The tapers need to be able to fit into the taper holder snugly. So I make sure that they are at least 1",especially at the base.That's the standard size for most holders.

It's also a personal preference as to what size you want them to be,or the project that you are working on. Here's a link http://www.candlehelp.com/?content=easydip Great site ;)

If that option is too time consuming,you can buy taper molds.Then use a Base former.Those are used to melt the ends of the taper to fit into the taper holders.Perfect fit every time :)


Good luck,


Munky.
 

GrayWolf

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Hey ! Want to say thank you for info. Things have been kind of crazy in my world lately. Don't usually wait this long. My mother taught me better than that. Sometimes you forget when life gets crazy.
As for taper molds,they are everywhere but they aren't the standard shape. This is the only place I have found a traditional candle taper mold

http://jas-townsend.com/index.php?cPath ... f18ed3580d

It is a site for 18th century re-enacting. Actually have the 4 slot 6" mold.
 

Wax Munky

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Thank YOU for that link...I still miss Pourette..

I bought my duel taper mold from them. Lasted 4 years.I used it often,but unfortunately it needs to be replaced.

It had one ugly accident... Yeah I did it! ;)


Munky :)
 

GrayWolf

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Your Welcome ! Unfortunately they aren't cheap. ! They are even more expensive if you have them custom made by a tinsmith !
 

Wax Munky

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I'd glady pay if it saves me the tedious job of hand dipping them myself..

I can be so lazy ;)


Munky.
 

GrayWolf

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Hi,
Would have gotten back sooner.......been busy. did some checking found several Tinsmiths online. [Colonial ] Do not know if they would consider making taper molds or not. Was not sure of your interest. I can post the links and you can contact them if you would like to. If given specifics they may be able to help.

........." I am wondering something in regard to Dipping Tapers. Read what info I can get my hands on. Using the double boiler system .......What should my temp be in the water before putting in wax. Right now I have bees wax. About 140-145 degrees for melting. Do I just put in the wax and wait for it to get high enough to stick thermo in and check wax temp. Don't want to burn or over heat wax. If water is to hot it wall burn the wax". Any suggestions !!
 

Wax Munky

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GrayWolf said:
Hi,
Would have gotten back sooner.......been busy. did some checking found several Tinsmiths online. [Colonial ] Do not know if they would consider making taper molds or not. Was not sure of your interest. I can post the links and you can contact them if you would like to. If given specifics they may be able to help.

........." I am wondering something in regard to Dipping Tapers. Read what info I can get my hands on. Using the double boiler system .......What should my temp be in the water before putting in wax. Right now I have bees wax. About 140-145 degrees for melting. Do I just put in the wax and wait for it to get high enough to stick thermo in and check wax temp. Don't want to burn or over heat wax. If water is to hot it wall burn the wax". Any suggestions !!
I'm always interested in new suppliers,thank you :)

If it were me I'd add the vat to the double boiler,before turning on the stove.Let them both get to the same temp together.
keep something like a piece of wood ,chain,that will keep that vat off the bottom of the boiler.It might get noisy,but it will save your vat a lot of wear and tear in the long run. Doing it like that decreases the chances of the wax over heating.
Check the temp often as it melts.When it's 140 or so,eye the water lvl.Keep it right there.Also keep an eye on how long it takes to reach the temp your looking for,If you need to add more water to the boiler use hot boiling water,that way you won't have to wait longer to remelt the wax.

And yes you just put the wax in and wait,smaller chunks makes it go faster :)

Good luck.

Munky.
 

GrayWolf

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Hey! Listed below are some places that you might want to contact. These are not traditional places to look for molds. I Do Not Know If They Will Do Such Custom Work as Candle Molds. I do know of one man in Southern Kentuckey that makes taper Molds.Unfortunately I lost his card. I can't make any gaurantee on any of these but you can aways try.

http://www.cg-tinsmith.com/

http://tintinkers.org/index.html

http://www.tinntreasures.com/

http://www.tinlighting.com/index.html

Another possible place to check is this site: North Valley Candle Molds
http://www.moldman.com/index.html

Thank you for the info on wax !
One last question that popped into my mind after reading your post.

I have noticed in one book by Clare Leavy,it talks about pouring temps.. In other words if the temp is 140 for melting,it may call for a higher temp for pouring. Maybe it has been awhile but I don't remember reading this in some of the others that I have read. I also know that if you increase the temp on BeesWax you take a chance on burning or darking the wax.

I appreciate your help and information and thanks again ! Hope that the above info can be of some use.
 

Wax Munky

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GrayWolf said:
Hey! Listed below are some places that you might want to contact. These are not traditional places to look for molds. I Do Not Know If They Will Do Such Custom Work as Candle Molds. I do know of one man in Southern Kentuckey that makes taper Molds.Unfortunately I lost his card. I can't make any gaurantee on any of these but you can aways try.

http://www.cg-tinsmith.com/

http://tintinkers.org/index.html

http://www.tinntreasures.com/

http://www.tinlighting.com/index.html

Another possible place to check is this site: North Valley Candle Molds
http://www.moldman.com/index.html

Thank you for the info on wax !
One last question that popped into my mind after reading your post.

I have noticed in one book by Clare Leavy,it talks about pouring temps.. In other words if the temp is 140 for melting,it may call for a higher temp for pouring. Maybe it has been awhile but I don't remember reading this in some of the others that I have read. I also know that if you increase the temp on BeesWax you take a chance on burning or darking the wax.

I appreciate your help and information and thanks again ! Hope that the above info can be of some use.

She might have been referring to a particular type of wax.Or candle design to get a particular look.Every design has it's own rules,which would require a certain pouring temp.Higher or lower.Melt point is also referred to as a point in which the wax begins to melt.

As for Beeswax,pouring temps shouldn't in my opinion exceed 140 to 145,it will darken as you've said.Wicking them with the square braid works well.That wick and depending on what type of mold was used,the wick will trim it'self.And you never have to prime it.I like that idea :)

Thank you for the links much appreciated :)

Munky.
 
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