So.... what is the point of adding the quart of water to the olive oil? Why not mix the lye into the quart of water, and then add the lye-water to the OO? Or is it just a matter of logistics and what is easier to handle? Just seems to me that getting the lye fully incorporated into all the water, and then incorporating it into the OO would be the way to go. The lye water would be slightly less caustic. Or maybe it doesn't matter.
Sorry if this question has been addressed previously. I've read a lot of this thread, but not 100%.
This thread started out with a recipe that is 1 quart olive oil, 1 quart water and enough lye dissolved in more water to be added to the solution.
The purpose of the water is to help carry the excess lye out to be turned into soda ash during the cure process.
What I just did:
I cut the recipe in half and kept the lye discount at MINUS 43% to stay true to the original recipe. I made an emulsion of the pomace oil and water ( 4.8% sodium acetate) and when I made up the lye water I used aloe vera juice and 2 % ppo of sodium citrate.
I slowly - a little at a time - added the lye solution to the emulsion being careful to not lose the emulsion. No problem. I'll just hit this with my trusty mini SB and get trace. I sweated out a pair of glove after 10 or 15 minutes and went for the big stick blender. My thought was to incorporate as much air as possible since it plays a part in the reaction ( read back through some of the Deanna science for the reasoning) so I was not being careful to not allow air in. SB got warm so I set the mini on high and sucked air in til the second pair of gloves got too swampy. Traded into the third set of gloves ( 30 minutes in) and turned on the computer. I was going to check in and see just how long trace should take. Looked back at the emulsion.
RICING!
Not just ricing but Sugar Bear RICING! Grabbed up the big stick and beat it into submission. Now it's a nice, thick and creamy trace! Into the mold it goes!
From reading a portion of this thread over the last couple of days I know better than to CPOP this so it's on the table being watched. It *looks like* it is going to stay and not phase out on me like has happened to some that warmed this recipe.
All liquids (not oil) were refridgerated until used. The lye water was hot (140 F) when added to the emulsion. The batter never got over 103 F during SB work and is now down to 95 F
I did not attempt to put a scent into this but I did add just a bit of green mica so if I try it with EVO instead of pomace I'll be able to see the difference. This is going to be watched for a bit just to see if it does phase or if the idea that inducing air helps keep this soap from separating into the water and oil phases after thickening.
I know it didn't happen without pictures so I'll post before and after pics of the cut.
Steve