Deanna, I have a question...

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I just went and started zap testing all my batches from the experiments for this thread- no zaps, icky taste, burning, etc. Feel encouraged folks. I feel that hand stirring is crucial for whatever the reason to the mildness of this soap. My hand stirred ones lost the burning taste far more quickly then the SB batches. In the end, the mildness is there with all of them.
Cheers!
Anna Marie
 
AnnaMarie....thanks for bring the recipe up.

As a new soap maker, I am enjoying this recipe. Too bad I did not listen to my nudge and cut sooner. But with having 1 other batch under my belt, it was a good learning experience.

Even though many bars cracked, I am amazed at how white it has gotten and how smooth the exterior of the soap is. I am definitley trying my hand again this weekend or next...but will cut sooner!
 
It ~does~ make a lovely looking soap. Even my first "homely" batch is lightening up with age to a pale, pale yellow. The second "pretty" batch is a handsome ivory color.
 
"I made a small batch recently using the classic method with only hand stirring with excellent results."

That's how I ended up spending 9 hours! I wanted to see how it went that way, with half the batch kept warm, half of it at whatever temp. I never got good trace--NEVER!

Yes, I need to type up the details, I will try to get that done tonight.
 
I would happily donate a bar for the experiment!

I think it would be VERY interesting to see if method used to make the soap made any difference in the trajectory of alkalinity, if the recipe is the same. I think it would not but my experience is the opposite of yours, AM. None of my soaps zap, but some still tingle if I leave my tongue on it. The one I SB'ed almost entirely has the least tingles. To me it doesn't make sense that the method of stirring would affect the mildness of the soap in the end but actually testing that hypothesis could be revealing. I use Kirkland OO (non-organic), for the record.

When you mention a possible third method, DeeAnna, I think it would be a hybrid of the two, which I have done but varied a bit. I stir initially and then SB'ed very briefly after about 15-20minutes. I will then return to stirring every 10-15 minutes with occas SB bursts. I sometimes have SB'ed near the end to ensure trace. A method could be outlined for consistency, rather than basing it on frustration, as I have been doing. It might take longer, but it has consistently made the soap.

I actually want the slippery slide-y rubbery trace but have been unable to attain it recently, which is exceedingly frustrating. It's like I'm suddenly doing it right when I WANT to be doing it incorrectly. How ridiculous is that?

Soap Rat, Robert and I need to meet somewhere (preferably really fancy) to have an Andalusian Castile Soap Conference and Contest, which is tax-deductible, of course, and see whose method is the most frustrating. It would also be in the name of science, of course.
 
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Well, then, you need an official contest monitor. I volunteer!

Seriously, it sounds like Kirkland olive oil is the product of choice. That's good, because it sounds like Kirkland is reasonably reliable. I'm rather leery of olive oil, given all the adulterated olive oil on the US market, so it's good to settle on a consistent product.

"...How ridiculous is that?..."

Pretty ridiculous. :) But I get what you mean. It's kinda cool when it happens.

I was making some shave soap tonight and was seeing a bit of the plastic-y trace we get with AnnaMarie's recipe. It was, like, hey, this recipe does it too! For the record, this plastic-y stage came when I had mixed about half the fat with all of the lye solution and the batter was starting into trace. I SB'ed and the texture changed instantly from grainy/curdled into smooth plastic-y gravy. Cool...

The shave soap is HP'ing right now ... and I'm tired ... so I hope it gets done soon.
 
I'm all for it!!! I've seen some good deals on trips to Ireland so maybe we could pretend it's an Irish recipe, just for a week. But ****, you can't take a liter of Kirkland Olive Oil on the plane.

Seriously though. I truly find it RIDICULOUS that I can't get the rubber ball or the plastic trace now. DeeAnna, were you using Songwind's recipe? I made it the other day and followed your lead of adding the lye water to just the coconut oil. It was over the double boiler but it didn't really trace but it did start to break up/curdle, just like this one (castile) used to for me. I didn't SB or stir it back together so I wonder if I would have gotten plastic if I did. I never HP so I was uncertain if that was supposed to happen so I quickly dumped in the stearic and stirred it up. SO do you think the trick is the lye excess, or the relatively high water? If you just did high water with a regular recipe, do you think you'd get the funky trace or does it have to be with excess lye, for some reason?
 
RIP my trusty stick blender. I'm sorry I rode you so hard but I just wanted this ***** of a soap to break so I could have my rubber ball soap. I didn't think it was too much to ask, but it was. The soap won.

I can only hope the soap will be a worthy tribute to your splendid life. It sure as heck trashed my kitchen.

(My SB is shrouded, so you needn't worry about seeing the carnage.)

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I suppose it is simply an excuse, a dodge of my personal responsibilities to those under my care, but frankly I feel abused by this soap. I am a victim and my stick blender is therefor also victimized. Ultimately this is AnnaMarie's fault for introducing this recipe. You owe me hours of my life back, girl! And a stick blender!
 
On a factual level, the batter would NOT break. It simply would not. I took it all the way through to a full-on heavy trace. I added more water, thinking that maybe the ratio needed to turn in order to get the soap-in-water emulsion, but it just would not do what it used to do. This is what I mean by now doing it right when I want to do it wrong. I SB'ed it mainly and had a definite trace by under an hour (a personal record) but I wanted that switch because I want to do some experiments with that rubber ball texture but now it will not come to me.

I used a mixed recipe. It was 70% OO, 28% tallow and 2% castor, -35%SF. So I am wondering if part of the plastic trace or the oil-in-water emulsion has to do with the oils as much as the oil-to-water ratio. I have been trying with various recipes and cannot achieve the plastic I seek using a mixed oil recipe.
 
I'm going to hold a soap conference next year to teach this recipe. Newbie's presence will be required. It will be held in Andalusia.
 
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