CP milk soap...HELP!!!

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fairness

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hi all! i'm new here and i need ur help w/ this milk soap recipe pls :)
16oz crisco
7oz olive oil
7oz coconut
1oz cocoa butter
6oz water
6oz milk
4oz lye

my questions:
1. i'm running out of crisco can i add soybean oil instead?
2. how do u go w/ the mixing if i choose to use buttermilk powder should i add it w/ the water?

i wud really appreciate ur help if u cud suggest a better proportion of such oils mentioned. i luv milk soaps but haven't got a good recipe so far. help me pls.... milk soap recipes anyone? :wink:
thank u so much!
 
Your recipe as stated is a little soft and low on cleaning and bubbles. You might change to this recipe using these basic oils.

Coconut Oil...................30% ounces 9.3
Olive Oil........................20% ounces 6.2
Crisco...........................20% ounces 6.2
Coco Butter...................10% ounces 3.1
Canola Oil...................... 9% ounces 2.8
Safflower Oil.................. 6% ounces 1.86
Castor Oil...................... 5% ounces 1.55

Lye 4.41
water/milk 11.78

ETA: These numbers are from;

http://www.soapcalc.com/calc/soapcalcWP.asp

AS CPsoaper mentions, go to that or another online calculator, and run these numbers to double check me. Always check for yourself. :wink:

This is a standard liquids ratio since you are new to this and a 5% lye discount. If you don't have these oils, go to a Super Wal-Mart and get them. This is a much bubblier recipe, much harder and a bit better conditioning than yours!

I take it you need 31 ounces for your total weight for your batch.

Paul.... :) :wink:
 
fairness said:
hi all! i'm new here and i need ur help w/ this milk soap recipe pls :)
16oz crisco
7oz olive oil
7oz coconut
1oz cocoa butter
6oz water
6oz milk
4oz lye

my questions:
1. i'm running out of crisco can i add soybean oil instead?
2. how do u go w/ the mixing if i choose to use buttermilk powder should i add it w/ the water?

i wud really appreciate ur help if u cud suggest a better proportion of such oils mentioned. i luv milk soaps but haven't got a good recipe so far. help me pls.... milk soap recipes anyone? :wink:
thank u so much!

If you are going to sub in anything for another ingredient, make sure to run it through the soap calc.

When using powder, reconstitute it down with a bit of water first. You can add powdered milks directly to your soap mixture but you run risk it will lump. By reconstituting it down with water, you will hopefully avoid that. You can either add it to your lye water or hold back a bit of water to be used to add to the powdered milk. You can then add that at trace.

As Paul said, your recipe as stated will yield a slighlty softer bar which means it may be used up faster in the shower, and it will be very conditioning but won't have big, fluffy bubbles. This is not necessarily bad as some want a more conditioning bar than a cleansing one.

Here are a break down of some oils and butters and what they bring to soap:

Cleansing: Coconut Oil, Palm Kernal Oil, Babassu Oil.

Hard Oils: Coconut Oil, palm oil, palm kernal oil, Lard, Shea Butter, Cocoa Butter, Kokum Butter and tallow.

Soft Oils: Olive**, Castor, Rice Bran, Hemp, Sweet Almond, Apricot kernel, Avocado, Soybean, walnut, Hazelnut, Macadamia nut oil, etc (there are others I can not think of at the moment).


** olive oil is a soft oil, but will actually yield a very hard bar if given plenty of cure time. Soaps high in oo, aka castille soaps, can take a few months to cure and will have a very creamy type lather. Some don't like the lather from a castille soap and think it feels too slimy.


I always suggest trying for a combo of hard butters and soft butter/oils like a 60/40 or 50/50 split.

HTH
 
Soapmaker Man & CPsoaper, thnx for ur help and quick reply! :D

oh btw, do u still add eo's or fo's to ur milk soap?
 
fairness said:
Soapmaker Man & CPsoaper, thnx for ur help and quick reply! :D

oh btw, do u still add eo's or fo's to ur milk soap?

Yes you can and I do.
 
I pretty much think any fragrance will go with any milk soap and will soap just about any. But you could use:

Oatmeal Milk & Honey
Honey
Almond
Coconut
Chocolate
Amaretto
Brown Sugar
Coffee
Sweet & Creamy (from KY)
Bubba Bees Baby Milk (from SW)
Buzzy Bumble Buttermilk (from OT)
 
Yea, since goat milk soap is all I have ever made, I use any FO or EO I want or a customer requests. I use FO's at 1 ounce PPO and EO's at .65 to .75 PPO.

Those are some great suggestions CPsoaper has given you.

Paul.... :) :wink:
 
once again thanx for ur valuable suggestions :)

i just made my 1st milk soap batch yesterday. at 1st i used buttermilk powder and mixed it w/ the water then added the lye. it turned some kind of orange color and curdled (is it normal??) i didn't like the smell so i threw it away :? i found some fresh milk in the fridge so i decided to give it a try once again (i didn't know if it's ok to use fresh milk), same result but decided to go on anyhow :oops:

here's my recipe: (the only oils available for the moment)

2 oz crisco
5 oz coconut oil
5 oz palm oil
2 oz olive oil
3 oz soybean oil
2 oz canola
7.22 water
2.7 lye
2 Tbsp FO

i didn't insulate it just covered it w/ linen cloth on top. so far it turned out fine but when i peeked this morning, i noticed some very tiny droplets on the surface of the soap :( what gives?? is this ok? can i still use this?

opinions, suggestions, reactions plsss..... :oops:
 
Awww you did not need to throw that batch out. When soaping with gm, it can turn a putrid orange color and smell quite amonia-ey but that is all normal. Believe it or not, the soap will not stay that color and that odor will cure out as well. :wink:

before using your next batch, always check for zap by placing the soap to the tongue. If it zaps you like a battery, it is lye heavy. Sometimes a bit more time to cure is all that needed but sometimes, your recipe can not be saved. Your soap might just still have some oils that need time to absorb in.
 
Droplets of oil on top can be a sign of overheating again. When you cut, if you have oil pockets, definitely overheated again on you. The orange colour is the lye burning the milk sugars and causing a foul ordor. My first batch of GM soap was orange and got too hot and had oil on top and inside in "pockets." That was many batches ago thankfully, but; "Been there, done that!" We understand. It took me 8 months before I developed my goat milk soap method. Come to the Tennessee gathering in May, 2008, and I'm doing a demo on my GM, RTCP methodology. Plus, giving away TOG Molds and cutters!

Paul.... :) :wink:
 
2 oz crisco
5 oz coconut oil
5 oz palm oil
2 oz olive oil
3 oz soybean oil
2 oz canola
7.22 water
2.7 lye
2 Tbsp FO

thought this recipe was ok but when i took it off from the mould noticed the soap was kinda soft and sticky :( what went wrong? what to do w/ this batch? need ur help again.....
 
I added milk to one of my batches but I just divided the water in half and substituted coconut milk for the on half and added it at trace. I used Ice cubes for the half that I dissolved the lye in.
 
Droplets of oils on the top can be a sign of overheating but if it is not that much, it more than likely is just oil that still will still absorb into the soap with the soap ultimately being O.K. for use. Even if you do curdle your soap and get that horrid orange color and smell, the soap is still fine for use. And the orange color will more than likely turn a tannish brown and won't stay orange. Whenever soaping with any milks, it is best to keep the mixture cool and soap with your lye and oils and butters cool.

If you use a recipe with softer oils, your soap can be soft when being unmolded. While it may never get to be a super hard bar, time will improve it. When it comes to soap making, time is always your friend.
 
hi! how far wud u go based on hardness on the soapcalc 9 WP? i'm quite hesitant to adjust it til hardness of 50, might be too hard for soap to develop cracks or something.... any ideas about this pls. tnx!
 
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