That would be about the same price as a DI system, but it sits on the countertop. I guess it depends on where you have the room for it....or buy a cheap water distiller machine.
Clarity test for liquid bastille soap. Still safe?
- Thread starter TamsJam
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Zany_in_CO
Saponifier
This links takes you to a thread that demonstrates the clarity test:
https://www.soapmakingforum.com/threads/clarity-test-add-eos-thicken-with-salt.83440/
https://www.soapmakingforum.com/threads/clarity-test-add-eos-thicken-with-salt.83440/
Zany_in_CO
Saponifier
I'm coming in a little late to the party but I see a couple of problems with your basic recipe:
Tick 90% KOH. Water to Lye Ratio should be 3 to 1 for most formulas. 0% SF for clarity
Your recipe calls for 9.35 oz KOH vs. 9.6 oz - this tells me your SF is higher than 0%.
Your recipe calls for 32 oz. water vs. 28.9 oz - this tells me you will need a longer cook.
- With an SF higher than 0% you can expect some unsaponified oil in your finished soap, which is not a bad thing, but may be what's causing the cloudiness.
- Excess water requires a longer cook time.
It's important to bring the batch to hard trace before beginning the cook. Although high % of olive oil requires a long cook, this is a fairly well-balanced combo and should have come together nicely in 3 hours or so. If not, it's best to turn it off, leave it over night. It will continue to saponify over time -- maybe a day or 2 or 3. Patience is the key.
As for the dilution water, weigh the paste and add enough water to make 40% soap to 60% water ratio. You will know the correct amount of dilution water needed when the batch forms a skin on top. Add a bit more water to incorporate the skin and it's done.
HTH
Always check any recipe you find on the internet (or even here on SMF) for accuracy. I use SoapCalc
Tick 90% KOH. Water to Lye Ratio should be 3 to 1 for most formulas. 0% SF for clarity
Your recipe calls for 9.35 oz KOH vs. 9.6 oz - this tells me your SF is higher than 0%.
Your recipe calls for 32 oz. water vs. 28.9 oz - this tells me you will need a longer cook.
- With an SF higher than 0% you can expect some unsaponified oil in your finished soap, which is not a bad thing, but may be what's causing the cloudiness.
- Excess water requires a longer cook time.
It's important to bring the batch to hard trace before beginning the cook. Although high % of olive oil requires a long cook, this is a fairly well-balanced combo and should have come together nicely in 3 hours or so. If not, it's best to turn it off, leave it over night. It will continue to saponify over time -- maybe a day or 2 or 3. Patience is the key.
As for the dilution water, weigh the paste and add enough water to make 40% soap to 60% water ratio. You will know the correct amount of dilution water needed when the batch forms a skin on top. Add a bit more water to incorporate the skin and it's done.
HTH
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Why do you hate buying distilled water in plastic jugs? Is it because of plastic waste?Thank you! I did use tap water. I do for all my cold process soap and never have any issues at all. A big reason I started making soap was to cut down on waste my family produces. I hate buying distilled water in the plastic jugs. The recipe I used had a lengthy section on water but didn’t stress enough, at least to me, that it could affect the clarity of the soap during the clarity test. The soap has had its final dilution and is completely clear and amber green. This is my second batch because I wasn’t going to let it beat me. My first batch got to the amber paste but wouldn’t pass a clarity test. I have SO MUCH soap now. Oh well
Distilled water is really inexpensive where I live... about $0.98 to $1.20 a gallon. Our city recycles the plastic jugs as part of the trash pickup.
Sincerely, always use distilled water for all your soap recipes, regardless of whether or not it is cold process, hot process or liquid soap.
I hope the best for you in your future soap endeavors! Regarding the extra soap you have... give some away to relatives, friends, etc.
I know I'm new here (lurker for a long time) but I wanted to comment on this.
Firstly, I agree distilled water is a MUST, but if you don't like buying it or don't want the expense of buying equipment just distil it yourself. I assume being a soaper you have a variety of stockpots? You only need a decent sized one (with a lid, domed is better), a stainless steel bowl (glass works too) and water. I would type it out but there's lots of detailed instructions available online. Even ones with drawings like THIS ONE
The other thing I need to say is there's an excellent scientific experiment I do without my primary (elementary for USA) school children about distilled water. You need two jars/glasses, two teaspoons, distilled water and a bit of soap paste.
Fill both jars 3/4 full with water - one with tap water, one with distilled water.
Put a dab/blob/quarter teaspoon of soap paste on each teaspoon.
Mix one teaspoon in water that's distilled and the other one in glass with the tap water.
Stir. Observe.
You can actually take this further by including other waters, spring water etc.The first thing you will notice is the cloudiness. But there's lots more happening there too.
The pH of liquid soap alone doesn't stop the growth of microbes (although it is a common myth that it does) so it is uber important to use distilled water.
Tap water has lots of things that can go wrong. Someone already mentioned DOS but using tap water can accelerate trace, can oxidise the soap, it could cause microbial growth and it will most definitely leave soap scum. I know it sounds simple but the soap dissolved in water is a great way to visualise why it's important to use distilled water. My current year 5 class could teach you more, but I'm sure you're not interested and I really just wanted to share this simple experiment.
I'll sneak back to my corner now and go back to lurking another 18 months before commenting again. Although it's taken me this long to register and it was easier than I thought it'd be!
Firstly, I agree distilled water is a MUST, but if you don't like buying it or don't want the expense of buying equipment just distil it yourself. I assume being a soaper you have a variety of stockpots? You only need a decent sized one (with a lid, domed is better), a stainless steel bowl (glass works too) and water. I would type it out but there's lots of detailed instructions available online. Even ones with drawings like THIS ONE
The other thing I need to say is there's an excellent scientific experiment I do without my primary (elementary for USA) school children about distilled water. You need two jars/glasses, two teaspoons, distilled water and a bit of soap paste.
Fill both jars 3/4 full with water - one with tap water, one with distilled water.
Put a dab/blob/quarter teaspoon of soap paste on each teaspoon.
Mix one teaspoon in water that's distilled and the other one in glass with the tap water.
Stir. Observe.
You can actually take this further by including other waters, spring water etc.The first thing you will notice is the cloudiness. But there's lots more happening there too.
The pH of liquid soap alone doesn't stop the growth of microbes (although it is a common myth that it does) so it is uber important to use distilled water.
Tap water has lots of things that can go wrong. Someone already mentioned DOS but using tap water can accelerate trace, can oxidise the soap, it could cause microbial growth and it will most definitely leave soap scum. I know it sounds simple but the soap dissolved in water is a great way to visualise why it's important to use distilled water. My current year 5 class could teach you more, but I'm sure you're not interested and I really just wanted to share this simple experiment.
I'll sneak back to my corner now and go back to lurking another 18 months before commenting again. Although it's taken me this long to register and it was easier than I thought it'd be!
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