Castile soap turning yellow

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isha

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I made a batcb of castile soap... Okay not pure castile..
I used 90% pomace
5% coconut oil
5% palm oil
Its at 30% lye concentration sf at 10[emoji19]

I made the batch on 1st jan. Got it to medium trace n unmoulded after week n now in drying racks

N now when i look at them they whole bar has turned yellowish.. Is that normal.. Or is that DOS??
Screenshot_20180219_000706.png
 

cmzaha

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You really need to post a picture of the soap. Why would you superfat at 10%, that could be part of the reason, even if you did not use prone to dos oils. Even with the high superfat I would not think it is dos this soon
 

isha

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Here is the pic
IMG_20180219_002550.jpg


It smells like stale oil[emoji16] [emoji16] [emoji16]

You really need to post a picture of the soap. Why would you superfat at 10%, that could be part of the reason, even if you did not use prone to dos oils. Even with the high superfat I would not think it is dos this soon
Im reallt not sure y i sf at 10. I must have read it somewhere i dont remembee it now
 
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earlene

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I have wondered if widespread color discoloration without ever having any spots is still DOS. When there is no accompanying smell, I am more in doubt as once DOS spreads throughout the soap, the smell is really really pretty strong and quite putrid.

Did you use a fragrance in this soap? Perhaps the discoloration is from that and not DOS. Some FOs and EOs do discolor soap, which in some cases takes time.

Posted before I saw the newer posts with photo. Is that a spot on the left side of the soap on the right? The discoloration doesn't look exactly uniform to me in the photos on my screen.

What is your drying rack made of? Has this soap ever sat on metal?
 

isha

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There is no fo or eo. I wanted to make it for my 1yr old. Im not sure if i shld be using this...

The color is not uniform. It dos have oily smell. Not strong though

What wud be an ideal sf for this? Ill make another batch
 
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cmzaha

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For a child I would use 100% light Pure Olive if you have it available not pomace, with a 5% superfat if I were you. I should say pomace would be my second choice if you do not have just the grade A pure Olive Oil available. Extra Virgin is really a waste in soap. A pure castille soap is at it's prime with a 1 year cure, a 2-3 month cure will make it okay.

I have seen pomace soaps turn yellow or yellowish, without being rancid. I would not throw them away, let them continue curing and if they have no off smell I would use them. In fact, rancid soap is not dangerous, just does not smell nice
 

earlene

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I just noticed this
It smells like stale oil[emoji16] [emoji16] [emoji16]
Stale oil smell? Do you mean oil that is beginning to smell rancid, but isn't quite there yet? How old was your bottle of pomace OO?

Again, I ask, is that an orange spot I see in the center on the left side of the bar pictured on the right? From the angle of the photo, I don't know if it is a spot or a shadow.
 

shunt2011

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How old is your soap? I once had a batch of 100% CO look kind of like that and it was rancid as all get go. It smelled bad too. I had accidentally stored it in a closed box in a humid area during the heat of summer. I too think your SF at 10% is part of the problem if it is DOS and going rancid. The only time I SF high is for my salt bars.
 

DeeAnna

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If those were my soap bars, I would be concerned about rancidity too. Early in my soap making adventures, I had one batch of soap turn all-over rancid. It looked a lot like yours. Thankfully that was a one-time problem, but I have had spots of rancidity (DOS) from time to time before I started using EDTA.

I do not have a way to prove this, but in my opinion, there are two types of rancidity. One is spots (DOS) that are most likely triggered by separate bits of contamination -- metals in particular. All-over rancidity is most likely triggered by an ingredient that is uniformly spread throughout the soap -- fat that is rancid or is on the edge of rancidity at the time you use it for soap, or a fragrance that is oxidized (older lavender EO can do this), or some additive that releases metal ions when it degrades (the magnesium in chlorophyll for example).

In your case, I'd look at the fats as the most likely culprit. Because it showed up so early after the soap was made, I would also guess the fats were borderline rancid to begin with. If that doesn't seem to be the case, then look further -- anything in the recipe could be the source. For example, did you use a different source of water or a different source for the NaOH?

As you learn more about soap making, learn to tailor your superfat to the recipe. Some soapers routinely use a high percent of superfat, but that is not always helpful. High superfat definitely reduces the lather, possibly makes the soap softer, can cause plumbing problems, and may increase the chance of rancidity.

Soap that is fairly low in lauric and myristic acid -- like the soap you made -- is most likely mild enough without a high superfat. I would not hesitate to make this soap with a 2-3% superfat and see how that works.
 

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Did you add an extra 100g of oil as super fat over and above what the recipe calls for? Did you add it at trace?

Super fat is part of the soap calc calculation. You do not add extra oil over and above the recipe.

You cure your soap in a warm room that has sun in it.
I thought that would end up being a problem for you.

Do you also store your oils in that room?

I think you will have to rethink your soaping methods - oil and soap need to be stored in a cool dry place. Air movement is needed to cure soap for the first few months minimum.
 

Fluffy Bunny

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Here is the picView attachment 28858

It smells like stale oil[emoji16] [emoji16] [emoji16]
Right, I think it could be your Olive Oil is not what it should be.
I could be wrong but some Olive Oil can be mixed low grades mixed with outdated other batches.
It's naughty but it does go on with some factories around the world they take older oils close to their end of shelf life so to speak and mix it with the newer processed stuff, and presto, label as good as new.
Only when soapers use they wonder what and who is the culprit.
So for me with whatever evidence I see in you images and account of your recipe I'd go for naughty company rebatching Olive Oil.
Hope this helps
 

isha

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How old is your soap? I once had a batch of 100% CO look kind of like that and it was rancid as all get go. It smelled bad too. I had accidentally stored it in a closed box in a humid area during the heat of summer. I too think your SF at 10% is part of the problem if it is DOS and going rancid. The only time I SF high is for my salt bars.
I made then on jan 1st.. So almost 2 months
 

isha

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Did you add an extra 100g of oil as super fat over and above what the recipe calls for? Did you add it at trace?

Super fat is part of the soap calc calculation. You do not add extra oil over and above the recipe.

You cure your soap in a warm room that has sun in it.
I thought that would end up being a problem for you.

Do you also store your oils in that room?

I think you will have to rethink your soaping methods - oil and soap need to be stored in a cool dry place. Air movement is needed to cure soap for the first few months minimum.
I store all oils and soaps in cool dry room n use plastic racks or cardboard boxes for curing..
I did not add any extra oil over the top.
I got the botter to medium trace. Took me about 20 mins with sb. I thought that was normal as i was using pomace olive oil...
 

penelopejane

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I made the batch on 1st jan. Got it to medium trace n unmoulded after week n now in drying racks
N now when i look at them they whole bar has turned yellowish.. Is that normal.. Or is that DOS??View attachment 28857
In the recipe in post 1 did you use 1000 g of oil or 1100 g? I find that soap calculator very confusing as it would be easy to use 1100g of oils.

It's been hot in India lately hasn't it? Do you have airconditioning or a fan on your soaps.

Did you use the same coconut oil as you used in the soap in this thread?
https://www.soapmakingforum.com/threads/soap-does-not-smell-good-need-help.68505/

People say Pomace traces faster than OO. SB for 20 minutes indicates to me that there is something going wrong here. I SB pure EVOO for no more than 5 mins, if that, but I soap at about 110*F.
 
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isha

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In the recipe in post 1 did you use 1000 g of oil or 1100 g? I find that soap calculator very confusing as it would be easy to use 1100g of oils.

It's been hot in India lately hasn't it? Do you have airconditioning or a fan on your soaps.

Did you use the same coconut oil as you used in the soap in this thread?
https://www.soapmakingforum.com/threads/soap-does-not-smell-good-need-help.68505/

People say Pomace traces faster than OO. SB for 20 minutes indicates to me that there is something going wrong here. I SB pure EVOO for no more than 5 mins, if that, but I soap at about 110*F.
Hi,
Sorry for the late reply. Got caught up in something else.
The oils are 1000 gms total. Look velow the line after superfat... ( in my image)

Ive changes the coconut oil. Its not the same as the one mentioned in my old thread. Ive replaced the oil since then.

Its hot in india but not too much where I stay.
Also i tried cleaning my drying rack couple of days back.. N found that the edges of this particular soap were soggy and oily. As if they were leaking on one side.

Ive been wanted to replace my pomace with rice bran oil.. Do u think its a good idea to make castile with 100 rice bran oil with litttle vit e to help it avoid dos?
I have wondered if widespread color discoloration without ever having any spots is still DOS. When there is no accompanying smell, I am more in doubt as once DOS spreads throughout the soap, the smell is really really pretty strong and quite putrid.

Did you use a fragrance in this soap? Perhaps the discoloration is from that and not DOS. Some FOs and EOs do discolor soap, which in some cases takes time.

Posted before I saw the newer posts with photo. Is that a spot on the left side of the soap on the right? The discoloration doesn't look exactly uniform to me in the photos on my screen.

What is your drying rack made of? Has this soap ever sat on metal?
 

isha

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Hi,
Sorry for the late reply. Got caught up in something else.
The oils are 1000 gms total. Look velow the line after superfat... ( in my image)

Ive changes the coconut oil. Its not the same as the one mentioned in my old thread. Ive replaced the oil since then.

Its hot in india but not too much where I stay.
Also i tried cleaning my drying rack couple of days back.. N found that the edges of this particular soap were soggy and oily. As if they were leaking on one side.

Ive been wanted to replace my pomace with rice bran oil.. Do u think its a good idea to make castile with 100 rice bran oil with litttle vit e to help it avoid dos?
Oh n my drying rack is plastic. I lined them with very soft tissue for this bar as it was soft when cut
 

SaltedFig

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How are you storing your lye?

Oh n my drying rack is plastic. I lined them with very soft tissue for this bar as it was soft when cut
It is possible that your sodium hydroxide has degraded.

This can happen in storage, especially in a hot and humid environment.

Clumping, where you see lumps of lye crystals all joined together that are easy to break apart, is a sign that your sodium hydroxide has absorbed moisture from the surrounding environment.

If you are soaping with sodium hydroxide that has degraded, it will not be as strong when you make up your lye solution (it will already have extra water).
This results in a soap that has an excess of unsaponified oils.

A simple check is to weight the lye (and container) after you have finished soaping, and record that weight on the container.
Before you begin soaping next time, weigh the lye container again and compare that with the weight you recorded.
If you notice that it's got heavier, the lye has absorbed moisture and you will need to take the extra water into account.
 

isha

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How are you storing your lye?



It is possible that your sodium hydroxide has degraded.

This can happen in storage, especially in a hot and humid environment.

Clumping, where you see lumps of lye crystals all joined together that are easy to break apart, is a sign that your sodium hydroxide has absorbed moisture from the surrounding environment.

If you are soaping with sodium hydroxide that has degraded, it will not be as strong when you make up your lye solution (it will already have extra water).
This results in a soap that has an excess of unsaponified oils.

A simple check is to weight the lye (and container) after you have finished soaping, and record that weight on the container.
Before you begin soaping next time, weigh the lye container again and compare that with the weight you recorded.
If you notice that it's got heavier, the lye has absorbed moisture and you will need to take the extra water into account.
I used to store them in plastic air tight containers. N do individual lye batch.
What u say is true i remember that lye had clumped up when i was mixing. I had to break the cryatals.
Now ive made a master batch of 50% lye solution.
 

shunt2011

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Hi,
Sorry for the late reply. Got caught up in something else.
The oils are 1000 gms total. Look velow the line after superfat... ( in my image)

Ive changes the coconut oil. Its not the same as the one mentioned in my old thread. Ive replaced the oil since then.

Its hot in india but not too much where I stay.
Also i tried cleaning my drying rack couple of days back.. N found that the edges of this particular soap were soggy and oily. As if they were leaking on one side.

Ive been wanted to replace my pomace with rice bran oil.. Do u think its a good idea to make castile with 100 rice bran oil with litttle vit e to help it avoid dos?
You can sub rice bran just be sure to run it through the soap calculator. It will not be Castillo though. Vitamin e will not do anything. Rosemary olersin will help if added to the bottle when first opened.

Something certainly went wrong. It should not be soggy and dripping oil. Are you sure you are using pure NAOH.
 

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