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Can I rescue my batch of moisturiser?

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Jennifer Marion

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Hi,

I make organic moisturiser so my costs are ridiculous and I am worried that I'll have to throw this lot out, anyway, I have been using 7.5% wax emulsifier for quite a few years now with no issues except for some very slight oil seepage when the tub of moisturiser gets old. Sometimes happens in warmer weather. It's not bad, I've not had a single complaint but in a bid to perfect it I researched my emulsifier and discovered that I can increase to 10% so I did that.......I NEVER have any separation in the cool down/whipping process until now! It started separating while it was warm, it got better as it cooled but I can tell it's going to separate later because it's slippery and not as smooth as normal and it slid off the spatula as though there is residual oil. Can I fix this with tapioca or corn starch? assuming that more emulsifier would make it worse? do I need to reheat it? My oils/fats and preservatives are stable to 70°Celsius /158°F.
 

lsg

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Need to see your recipe in order to give advice. :)
 

Jennifer Marion

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Need to see your recipe in order to give advice. :)
Jojoba oil 6.5%

Hemp oil 10%

Argan oil 3.5%

Shea butter 5%

Olivem1000 7%

Water 61.5%

Oil preservative 2.5%

Water preservative 4%

This is my regular formula. The adjustment of 10% emulsifier yesterday would obviously change the other percentages slightly :) thank you.
 

lsg

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Lotions are usually made up of about 70% water phase. I am a fan of the heat and hold method (about 168*F for 20 min.) . After heating and holding each phase in separate containers, I combine the oil phase with the water phase while mixing continually with a stick blender for several minutes.
 

DeeAnna

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Adding a source of carbohydrates (the tapioca or corn starch) to a lotion is going to increase the chance of microbial growth. Not sure that would be a good idea.
 

Jennifer Marion

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OK thank you ladies and yes I do the heat and hold :) I have been in contact with my emulsifier seller and they said I need to reduce the oil so yep...reducing the oil now, thanks again.
 

cmzaha

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I have had the same thing happen when I decided to up the emulsifier percentage thinking to thicken a lotion. I have actually reheated the lotion to a point of 10 degrees less than my lowest heat-stable point preservative, I use two preservatives, add in more hot water that has been heated and held until the emulsion stays together.

I never sell any lotion with any seepage or separation. In my opinion, it is not good, no matter what the reason for seepage or separation. We simply cannot tell a bad lotion by looking at it, unless it decides to go mold.
 
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