Botched batch - can I melt it?

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kniquy

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I just made a batch of CP soap this weekend. This was the first time i used clay for coloring. I guess I did not blend it well enough so the colors are a bit blotchy. How soon after you make CP soap can you use it essentially as melt and pour? I know it still needs to cure, but could i melt it now, hopefully able to blend it better and re-pour into a mold to finish curing?
 
You can rebatch it, the sooner the better.
This might be a stupid question but is re-batching different from melting in my slow cooker (like it would a melt and pour soap?
 
Melt and pour soap has solvents in it to allow it to melt easily. Regular cold process soap does not have these solvents, so it doesn't behave the same as M&P.

If you heat regular soap, it will soften to the point when you can stir it, but it stays fairly thick and gloppy. Most of us call this rebatching, not melting the soap. I'd agree that this is a melting process, but you'll confuse a lot of people if you use the word "melt" rather than "rebatch" when talking about regular soap, rather than M&P soap.

I've never met a rebatched soap that was better looking than the original, but YMMV. If you want to rebatch, do it soon after it's made. I would not cure the soap and then rebatch -- it can be done but it's much harder to get it all fluid. And you'll have to wait for another whole cure time to get the soap firmed up so it's nice to use again.
 
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The difference between M&P soap and re-batching is basically that in MP, your base will always melt without adding anything extra to help it melt. And it melts to a very fluid pour.

Depending on how fluid loss has occurred with your CP or HP soaps, additional fluid is required to get a smoother melt and a fluid pour. Re-batched soap rarely ever has the same fluidity and ease of pour as a real MP soap. The only way you can really reach that much fluidity in a re-batch is to add back in so much fluid that as the soap cures, it warps as the fluid evaporates off.

But if you re-batch right away, you can get by with very little added fluid and hopefully you will have a nice result.

Cross-posted with DeeAnna.
 
I hate rebatching as I hate all the work, then I get ugly soap. I either grate mine up and use as confetti, or chop it up and use it as embeds.

I'm exactly on the same page as Susie. I've only rebatched once and it was a PITA to me so I either use the ugly soap as is or use it in another batch as Susie described.
 
I saw a video recently where the lady was able to achieve a consistency that wasn't lumpy, and actually a lil better than regular HP.

She shredded the soap into really small bits, left it to "melt" then added sodium lactate and stick blended it.

What I don't know is the how much and the how longs...
 
How soon after you make CP soap can you use it essentially as melt and pour?
You can rebatch (not "melt & pour") as soon as it's hard enough to cut into bars, then grate up. I use a Salad Shooter but a food processor works well too. Using a cheese grater is a knuckle buster! :eek:

If less than 2 weeks old, you won't need to add liquid. But, if you discounted your water, which ISN'T a good idea for clay soap, add the difference between your discount and the full water amount.

For vegan soaps, use milk (protein helps); for lard/tallow use water. Just sprinkle it on and toss with gloved fingers to wet all the gratings.

Depending on how deep your crockpot is, and how large the batch is, you may want to do what I do... I do the oven method. Preheat to 250°F (121°C). I use a large stainless pot with a lid. Takes about an hour. At that point, the soap should be molten. If not, give it a stir and wait another 20 minutes. Repeat if necessary.

My advice would be to take the full 2 weeks to see how much the soap improves after a bit of a cure. You might be surprised! :thumbs:
 
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