Batch Number 6! :)

[MetalSubstance]

Wow, this is such an engaging hobby, that I'm making far more soap than I can actually use in a year!

I'm attempting a vegetable shortening-based soap to see how it will turn out. Here is what I used:

2 sticks of Crisco (for a total of 12.5 oz.)
4 oz. LouAna Coconut Oil
2.22 oz. lye

At trace:

2 tsp. olive oil (I didn't measure)
Lemongrass essential oil
Spearmint essential oil
Melted crayon, which turned out to be a red shade

It turns out that the melted crayon didn't mix into my soap as a smooth blend; rather, it gave the soap more of a distinct "marbled" look.

Now that it's being cured, let's see how this one turns out.

This is addictive...

--Metal Substance

 

[IanT]

awesome looks like it will be yummy! post some pics when you get a chance!!

 

[MetalSubstance]

This batch is now ready to cure, and it's looking like a good one! The bars are still wet on the inside, and the color hasn't fully settled. I'll post pictures as soon as the curing process moves along and the soap gets drier.

--Metal Substance

P.S. -- the scent combination worked out better than I thought it would!

 

[IanT]

awesome!!! glad to hear it and awaiting pics!! dont worry that theyre still wet , itll take a month or so for the water to evaporate out of them through the curing process, youll see that the soaps become much better through time!!

 

[MetalSubstance]

Pictures!!!

http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm16 ... ch_6_1.jpg
http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm16 ... ch_6_2.jpg

--Metal Substance

 

[IanT]

veeeeeery nice!! Great job!!!


I likeeee!

 

[MetalSubstance]

veeeeeery nice!! Great job!!!


I likeeee!

Thanks!

The only thing now is that after leaving the soap out to cure, it started to ash toward the top. I never covered the soap after pouring it into the mold, so I'll try that next time.

--Metal Substance

 

[IanT]

yup that will help, it usually happens because of the reaction with air molecules that touch the top of the soap bar, if you use some plastic wrap or wax paper it should be fine, havent had a prob with this yet (although im sure itll happen sooner or later)

 

[7053joanne]

If I'm not mistaken....adding castor oil may also help reduce or eliminate ash.

Great job

Joanne

 

[MetalSubstance]

As usual, I'd like to use one of the soap bars on myself as a guinea pig before it's fully cured. I washed my hands with that bar and it felt really good on my skin; better than most of my batches. I look forward to using it in full after it's fully cured!

I went ahead and sealed the other 5 bars that came from this batch into a quart storage bag to let them cure; I don't want to risk DOS like I did with my last batch.

--Metal Substance

 

[Soapmaker Man]

Sealing your fresh soap in a hermetically sealed environment may actually increase the chances of DOS. You should let your soaps breath while curing, as keeping inside a sealed environment, the water will not evaporate. You can store them in cardboard shoe boxes. Poke a few holes in it also for air to circulate.

Paul :wink:

 

[MetalSubstance]

Thanks for the tip. I'll let my two latest batches "breathe" for a while before sealing them.

--Metal Substance

 

[IanT]

metal- i wouldnt even bother sealing them at all until theyre fully cured this way the water can evaporate out of them, I have been curing mine on a rack, and turning every so often...you can also cure on a plank but might need to turn more because one side is not exposed to the air...they shouldnt ash if you cover them well with wax paper after it gels a bit ( i push my wax paper in to smooth the soap out and make sure its uniform and flat all around)...

 

[CPSoaper]

Wow, this is such an engaging hobby, that I'm making far more soap than I can actually use in a year!

I'm attempting a vegetable shortening-based soap to see how it will turn out. Here is what I used:

2 sticks of Crisco (for a total of 12.5 oz.)
4 oz. LouAna Coconut Oil
2.22 oz. lye

At trace:

2 tsp. olive oil (I didn't measure)
Lemongrass essential oil
Spearmint essential oil
Melted crayon, which turned out to be a red shade

It turns out that the melted crayon didn't mix into my soap as a smooth blend; rather, it gave the soap more of a distinct "marbled" look.

Now that it's being cured, let's see how this one turns out.

This is addictive...

--Metal Substance

Good job.

I'd recommend investing in some proper soap colorants and ditch the crayons. I know some will use them ( I don't and won't), but you will get better colors and results with colorants made for soap. A good place to buy them is Brambleberry, Select Shades sold at Tradewinds, MMS, Southern Soapers, OT etc.

 

[pjb31apb]

Wow, this is such an engaging hobby, that I'm making far more soap than I can actually use in a year!

I'm attempting a vegetable shortening-based soap to see how it will turn out. Here is what I used:

2 sticks of Crisco (for a total of 12.5 oz.)
4 oz. LouAna Coconut Oil
2.22 oz. lye

At trace:

2 tsp. olive oil (I didn't measure)
Lemongrass essential oil
Spearmint essential oil
Melted crayon, which turned out to be a red shade

It turns out that the melted crayon didn't mix into my soap as a smooth blend; rather, it gave the soap more of a distinct "marbled" look.

Now that it's being cured, let's see how this one turns out.

This is addictive...

--Metal Substance

Good job.

I'd recommend investing in some proper soap colorants and ditch the crayons. I know some will use them ( I don't and won't), but you will get better colors and results with colorants made for soap. A good place to buy them is Brambleberry, Select Shades sold at Tradewinds, MMS, Southern Soapers, OT etc.

Or you could play with natural colorants such as pureed veggies. Carrot gives you a nice bright orange and I will be lpaying with tomato juice once I get some more lye in the house. Infusing botanicals into oil can also change the color of your finished soap.