Ash

[Dean]

So this is interesting. I made 0% SF bars. It was actually SF a lil by over pouring the oils a bit. The soap has THE WORSE ash. It looks like brie. Im pretty sure its becuz of the no-low SF.

 

[earlene]

My lye heavy soaps were also very high with ash. But I expected that because it was discussed here about the excess ash folks got with Andalusian style Castile soap. There is a very long thread about it (the lye heavy soap experiment.) I don't recall the specific analysis of why they were so ash laden, but I think it may have had something to do with the amount of water used as well as being lye heavy.

https://www.soapmakingforum.com/threads/deanna-i-have-a-question.42922/

more about this soap: https://www.soapmakingforum.com/threads/trouble-with-andalusian-lye-heavy-castile.57963/

 

[BattleGnome]

I’m sure temperature also has something to say about ash. The warmer it is the faster the reaction happens. If you insulate or HP there may be less ash next time

 

[Lin19687]

My soaps all have SF, some high SF. I Gel my soaps and some don't gel well. But all get Ash. 33% Liquid, lots of Palm.
I have tried Alc spray, after pour, 1/2 through setting, after Gel .....
Tried covering, not covering.......... it happens on my Salt bars too

I have yet to find an Actual Legit cause that can be duplicated and Proven. All that seems to be out there are peoples conclusions .

 

[Paperbackstash]

I made five small lb batches for presents last weekend. Same recipe for every soap, although different FO's and colors of course. I sometimes get a small bit of ash at the tops of my soaps, which doesn't bother me - sometimes I like the rustic look, but it can be better to try to control this stuff. I didn't think to spray with alcohol at the top since it's not usually an issue. I had the soaps curing for over 30 hours without ash. Then I turned a fan on the soaps, and within an hour three of the batches developed ash. Irritating. A little late to spray them but I did a spritz of rubbing alcohol and it seemed to reverse or mainly fix the issue.

The two batches farthest from the fan (same wooden slap with them all resting cut) did not develop any ash. They also didn't have any brown colorants though.

I took a picture after cutting and doing a quick dip in water so the pictures they look a little gloopy, but they hardened up nicely and I used some shavings already in the sink even though it's premature.

The most annoying thing was I used salt in only one recipe, and I did it quickly (first time) so I think it created white dots. I don't usually use salt but was using to mold. Surprisingly they popped out of the mold very easily without any freezer or effort. I was worried somehow the white dots were lye somehow even though it didn't happen in the other recipes, but I'm really thinking now it was me not dissolving the salt and just pouring it in. It's also right by the fan and got some ash that I trimmed off the bottom.

 

[shunt2011]

I made five small lb batches for presents last weekend. Same recipe for every soap, although different FO's and colors of course. I sometimes get a small bit of ash at the tops of my soaps, which doesn't bother me - sometimes I like the rustic look, but it can be better to try to control this stuff. I didn't think to spray with alcohol at the top since it's not usually an issue. I had the soaps curing for over 30 hours without ash. Then I turned a fan on the soaps, and within an hour three of the batches developed ash. Irritating. A little late to spray them but I did a spritz of rubbing alcohol and it seemed to reverse or mainly fix the issue.

The two batches farthest from the fan (same wooden slap with them all resting cut) did not develop any ash. They also didn't have any brown colorants though.

I took a picture after cutting and doing a quick dip in water so the pictures they look a little gloopy, but they hardened up nicely and I used some shavings already in the sink even though it's premature.

The most annoying thing was I used salt in only one recipe, and I did it quickly (first time) so I think it created white dots. I don't usually use salt but was using to mold. Surprisingly they popped out of the mold very easily without any freezer or effort. I was worried somehow the white dots were lye somehow even though it didn't happen in the other recipes, but I'm really thinking now it was me not dissolving the salt and just pouring it in. It's also right by the fan and got some ash that I trimmed off the bottom.

You do know your soap won’t be ready to gift. They need to cure 4-6 weeks.

 

[Paperbackstash]

You do know your soap won’t be ready to gift. They need to cure 4-6 weeks.

I know, I'm a procrastinator and tell them not to actually use until February because it won't be done curing. The same thing happened last year with my "Christmas presents" lol. I meant to make these in November originally, but again procrastinating. It's just my parents and best friend and they mainly use shower gel, which I'm also making, and they understand and wait to actually use. I do small tests with shavings early because I can't resist.

 

[Dean]

I sprayed the top with alcohol but I get ash on all sides. When I unmold, do I spray the other sides?

Thx in advance.

 

[Alfa_Lazcares]

I sprayed the top with alcohol but I get ash on all sides. When I unmold, do I spray the other sides?

Thx in advance.

Yep. I sometimes spray all sides of the cut bars, sometimes ash will still appear, sometimes just a speay everywhere gets rid of it.

 

[penelopejane]

I don't get ash on logs but I spray them with alcohol and cover in a timber box and cut at 12 - 18 hrs. I soap pretty hot, always have a very low SF and equivalent to 31-33% Lye concentration on Soapcalc and I force gel.

I did get it on individual cavity molds.
For individual cavity molds try pouring your soap at a thicker trace. Let the tops set a little then spray with alcohol and cover with a close fitting lid or cling wrap as soon as the tops are set and leave them to set in the mold for days. The longer the better seems to work. I gel all my soaps.

I clean my molds really thoroughly with warm water and dish detergent. I think that makes a difference as well.

I think the micro-climate in your soaping room has something to do with it as well.

 

[SoaperForLife]

Last time Rustic Essentials had a FO sample sale I bought a bunch and made one lb. test batches with most of them. Same exact recipe for all, same closet to cure...some of the FO's got a heavy coating of ash, others none at all so perhaps the FO has something to do with it... typically I cover my log molds with saran wrap after pour and leave it on the soap for two days before uncovering and cutting and that seems to help a lot with ash.

 

[KiwiMoose]

I'm pleased you asked about ash, Dean. I was going to ask a question about spraying after cutting, or demoulding from cavity moulds. I always spray after putting the batter into the moulds, but then wonder if i should do the other side ( of cavity moulded soaps) once i have turned them out. I have found some of my soaps developed ash some weeks after unmoulding - what's that about? I've never had an extreme case though - just the tiniest bit that wouldn't bother most people.

 

[jcandleattic]

When I first started out I would spray after cut because I would get ash. After going to a 33% water lye water solution and gelling my soaps I don't need to do that as I no longer get ash.

I have found some of my soaps developed ash some weeks after unmoulding - what's that about

Is it humid where you are? That could cause it.

 

[Steve85569]

My limited experience is that the more salts ( sodium compounds) in the recipe the more ash I get.
I now limit the salt , citric acid and acetate ( vinegar) and have a LOT less ash.

Oh, and I use a low lye discount of approximately 2 to 4 %.
The heavy lye experiment was interesting to watch cure. When first cut there was no ash but as the soap cured and salted the ash developed. All od it eventually was white on the outside because of the ash even though I colored on batch.

 

[penelopejane]

My limited experience is that the more salts ( sodium compounds) in the recipe the more ash I get.
I now limit the salt , citric acid and acetate ( vinegar) and have a LOT less ash.

Oh, and I use a low lye discount of approximately 2 to 4 %.
The heavy lye experiment was interesting to watch cure. When first cut there was no ash but as the soap cured and salted the ash developed. All od it eventually was white on the outside because of the ash even though I colored on batch.

So what lye concentration are you using Steve?

 

[KiwiMoose]

Is it humid where you are? That could cause it.

Yes. Yes it is.

 

[Dean]

When I first started out I would spray after cut because I would get ash. After going to a 33% water lye water solution and gelling my soaps I don't need to do that as I no longer get ash.

I’ve never gelled. Might try CPOP.

 

[Lin19687]

Well, I just did 2 new recipes and stuck the loafs Outside so they would not gel..... but there is Milk so I think 1 may have still slightly gelled.

Will let you know in 6 weeks if there is Ash or not.

 

[cmzaha]

My lye heavy soaps were also very high with ash. But I expected that because it was discussed here about the excess ash folks got with Andalusian style Castile soap. There is a very long thread about it (the lye heavy soap experiment.) I don't recall the specific analysis of why they were so ash laden, but I think it may have had something to do with the amount of water used as well as being lye heavy.

https://www.soapmakingforum.com/threads/deanna-i-have-a-question.42922/

more about this soap: https://www.soapmakingforum.com/threads/trouble-with-andalusian-lye-heavy-castile.57963/

I am guessing the high ash is due to the high water carrying out the excess lye to the soap surface. Of course I am not a chemist in the least, but that has always been my guess. The Andalusian soap experiment was very high water and minus superfat. But I could very well be completely wrong

I superfat from 1-3% and usually do not get ash except with a few fragrances and my Lavender 40/42 which always ashes. I put my molds in my shallow totes spray the tops of my soap with alcohol after the soap has set. I almost always have to force gel. When gel is complete I turn off the heat pad and blankets let the molds stay covered in the tote until they are cooled. I really do not get heavy ash or any ash to often anymore.

 

[Martha]

I sometimes get ash and am starting to think it might also be temperature/cold draft-related. Someone mentioned making a few batches of soap, and only the one by the fan got ash. Made me wonder as mine cure in a fairly drafty area in my home.