Aleppo Soap! The real thing!!!

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It sure looks amazing!

Savons_dAlep_traditionnels.jpg
 
I am not insisting because I know what color is the core. We are talking about the same thing but we do not understand eachother.


But...this is what you said: "Raw olive pomace oil gives the green and laurel berry oil gives the brown color."

But aging gives the brown outside (yes, browner with more laurel, but not with just olive oil), and laurel the green...that according to much I have read, and exactly what Sapw's personal soaping experience shows.

If you are not being understood, it would be helpful to reclarify your statements, please. I'm still confused by what you are saying.
 
But...this is what you said: "Raw olive pomace oil gives the green and laurel berry oil gives the brown color."

But aging gives the brown outside (yes, browner with more laurel, but not with just olive oil), and laurel the green...that according to much I have read, and exactly what Sapw's personal soaping experience shows.

If you are not being understood, it would be helpful to reclarify your statements, please. I'm still confused by what you are saying.


I think what he means is that the olive oil (raw) is green and the laurel oil is brown. That is what they are starting with. The soap once made switches and the olive is brown (well okay tan - it's not white, try lard or tallow then you'll see white) and the laurel turns green.

Again as always I could be completely off the mark.
 
I think what he means is that the olive oil (raw) is green and the laurel oil is brown. That is what they are starting with. The soap once made switches and the olive is brown (well okay tan - it's not white, try lard or tallow then you'll see white) and the laurel turns green.

Again as always I could be completely off the mark.

I guess. but the whole soap is green to start with, and then the outside ages to golden.
 
Question - Is the "Laurel Fruit Oil" listed on soapcalc the correct one to use for Laurel Oil?
 
Brown with age?

Hmmm, I just made an Aleppo inspired soap a couple of days ago, it started out a creamy greenish color but within a couple of days has turned brownish so not sure about the "time" being the only thing that turns the outside brown. I used pomace so I believe the previous statements on crude pomace giving the brown color is correct. I used 25% Laurel oil that I did get in America from this site http://www.newyorksoapmakingsupplies.com/
 
There is a video on YouTube of someone making a 100% laurel oil soap, it was a tannish color without a hint of green. Another video shows soap being made in Syria and the OO is a very dark green.
 
Hmmm, I just made an Aleppo inspired soap a couple of days ago, it started out a creamy greenish color but within a couple of days has turned brownish so not sure about the "time" being the only thing that turns the outside brown. I used pomace so I believe the previous statements on crude pomace giving the brown color is correct. I used 25% Laurel oil that I did get in America from this site http://www.newyorksoapmakingsupplies.com/

Until you cut it and the inside is still green.....and THEN how will you explain it? :D
 
I just got a bar from amazon for $6.50 (add-on price). Haven't cut it up because I don't want to. Not the best smelling soap, kind of old smelling as someone mentioned, but it gives a far better lather than I ever expected. At first it's a bit normal but with a touch of extra water and some light rubbing, very very nice. This last wash left my hands a bit squeaky feeling immediately afterward but my skin feels fine now. The bar is a bit chunky to handle. Very interesting!
 
Aleppo soap is by definition a very high quality soap.
The high quality is not given only by the good quality laurel seed oil, but also from the long curing time.
Aleppo soap must cure for at least 1 year. I personally consider minimum curing time of at least 9 months.
I plan to have availability of Aleppo soaps cured for 2-3 years in the near future.
I also try to cure my Aleppo soaps in conditions as close as possible to the Syrian climate, not so difficult to achieve if living in Greece.
 
Hi ArtraGarden, somehow, I can't send a PM to you. Last night, I have placed an order with Sinfullywholesome. Would you know what's their average shipping times? Thank you!

Hello Ellacho,
I am private messaging you. Thanks
 
Hi ArtraGarden, somehow, I can't send a PM to you. Last night, I have placed an order with Sinfullywholesome. Would you know what's their average shipping times? Thank you!

Hi Ellacho Shipping times vary based on your location. But in most cases you will receive your order within a week to 10 days.

Thank you

Kind Regards
Sinfully Wholesome
 
This is a 2-part question:

I'm confused about the Laurel Berry Oil content in soap. I've read on some websites that the higher the LBO content, the more drying the soap can be (LBO does have a significant lauric acid content so this makes sense to me). However some websites (and some forum posts) state that the higher the LBO content, the more moisturizing the soap is.

I'm wondering if this discrepancy has to do with how much of the LBO is added as a superfat in a hot process after the olive oil has been saponified. And this brings me to the second part of my question:

It seems that traditionally the LBO is added after saponification of the olive oil - so in other words, as a superfat. However I find it hard to believe that the 30% and 40% LBO soaps have a 30% or 40% superfat content. Sounds like the soap would go rancid quickly if that were the case. And in fact, it seems to me that the traditional method of boiling soap should leave a superfat content of 0%. In which case, I'm not sure I understand why the LBO is added towards the end of the cook.

Can anyone shed some light on these issues?

Thanks!
 
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