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OOP? Olive Oil Pomace? If so, that's what I use. :thumbs:


That's exactly why I started making soap in 2004. 😁

Best recipes to try using the oils you have listed:

ZANY'S NO SLIME CASTILE
Either 100% OO or, my personal favorite variation, 85% OO, 10% CO, 5% Castor.

BASIC TRINITY OF OILS
35% Olive Oil
20% Coconut Oil
40% Shea Butter
(Sub for palm)

NOTE: As much as I like using High Oleic Sunflower Oil in lotions, creams, and lip balm, in my experience, it's not a good oil in soap formulas. If you have almond oil available, that would be a better choice. The one time I added Sunflower to ZNSC, the result was slimey soap. 😢


This is just me, but, as much as I like using natural colorants, any one of those might cause irritation to sensitive skin. It's best to leave out the colorant and fragrance at first. That way you will know whether the formula or the additive is causing the irritation.

HTH (Hope This Helps) and HAPPY SOAPING! :computerbath:
I have looked into the recipes and they both look very promising for my dry dry skin. I am going to make them next. You have been soaping for long long time now.. the no slime recipe is recommended by many people on this forum. I am sure it will be good on skin
 
My apologies for my late response.

For the most part, recipes are a matter of personal and customer preference, and what is available in your area and are affordable. I find Coconut Oil to be a bit drying in soap so I use it at 20%, but I have a customer who is allergic to Cocoa and Shea Butters and so I use CO at 27% for her and she loves it.

I am including my recipe down below, even though I saw what you wrote about Palm Oil and Cocoa Butter. The PO I purchase is responsibly and sustainably produced; I pay a little more for it, but it's something that I support. Cocoa Butter isn't cheap here in the States either, but I get a good deal on Shea Butter and so it works out in the wash. And honestly it wouldn't matter if it didn't because I like what CB brings to the table and I'm about producing a quality bar of soap, and quality is not cheap.

I have been a 'maker' of things my entire life and yes, it's not cheap. Cooking, baking, sewing, embroidery and cross-stich, quilting, crocheting and knitting and now soap making. Part of it is the labor which has been reduced through industrialization and mechanization, part of it is the stuff it takes to make these things. When I first started making soap, I was buy in small quantities. A pound of Cocoa Butter Wafers is $12.00...if I buy 5lbs it's $9.60 lb, if I buy 26.5lbs it's $7.41lb. I've gone from paying $2.87oz for 2oz bottles for my FOs to $1.71oz for 16oz bottles. My next step is 5lb jugs which will bring my cost down to $1.56oz.

35% Olive Oil
20% Coconut Oil
20% Palm Oil
10% Cocoa Butter
10% Shea Butter
5% Castor Oil

33% Lye Concentration
5% Super Fat

1 tea Sodium Lactate PPO
1 tea Kaolin Clay PPO
You are right when you says handmade and good things are not cheap be it any creative things like knitting, crocheting, embroidery or painting. But as a beginner you always want to start small with cheapest yarn available or cheapest colour for painting because you are learning and are bound to make mistakes and you might not afford to pay much for your inventory during your trial and error phase.
I am in this learning,trial and error phase of soap making. Therefore, I am looking for cheap or relatively cheap options for soaping. It is just get the hang of the process. Eventually I would also want to use best of available oils that I can get.
 
You are right when you says handmade and good things are not cheap be it any creative things like knitting, crocheting, embroidery or painting. But as a beginner you always want to start small with cheapest yarn available or cheapest colour for painting because you are learning and are bound to make mistakes and you might not afford to pay much for your inventory during your trial and error phase.
I am in this learning,trial and error phase of soap making. Therefore, I am looking for cheap or relatively cheap options for soaping. It is just get the hang of the process. Eventually I would also want to use best of available oils that I can get.
We may be talking at cross purposes here. I was talking about ingredients not being cheap in terms of quantity, while you are talking about quality.

But to discuss quality…cheapest isn’t always the way to go. Now if I were to take up woodworking tomorrow, of course I’m not going to start with walnut or mahogany because if I make a bad cut, I’m screwed. On the other hand, if my cat decides to take a bite out of my $40 skien of merino/cashmere/silk blend, I can do a spit splice and you’ll never find it.

I teach Loom Knitting. I don’t recommend the cheapest looms or the cheapest yarn because my goal is for my students to be successful and to enjoy their potential new hobby. So I recommend the KB All-in-One as it is a very versatile loom and they can make a lot of different things without having to purchase more looms. I also recommend Cascade 220 Yarn..it’s a superwash wool which means it can be tossed in the washer/dryer and because it’s wool, it doesn’t have memory; you can frog your project, mist it with some water, let it dry and it’s ready to be used again.
 

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