LGBT Soap?

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ozarkscents

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Has anyone tried to make an LGBT soap with the six colors, probably using the tall skinny mold?

If you have, can you give me a hint as to what recipe to use so I have time to pour all six colors before it turns into cement? LOL! :grin:
 
I have not tried to do a rainbow anything, single colors and a poor swirl is the extent for me so far, but I have tried to slow down the setup so I could do other things. Better results were with colder ingredients and even chilled lye. When I made a soap with OO, pomace was VERY fast where EVOO was slower. Anything so far with a good portion of CO sets quickly. And, I sometimes get an emulsion first with the SB and then go to hand stirring to trace. If I get to where the trace is getting pretty heavy but it looks like the emulsion needs to be incorporated more, turning off the technology and grabbing the spoon helps.

I'm not sure there's one right answer to your question, but maybe if you share some details about what it is you are trying it will help people point out things you can do to make that recipe easier?

Also, FWIW, I think it's becoming more mainstream now to use the acronym LGBTQIA but if the term gets any more inclusive it will start looking like the name of a Norwegian mountain town. :)
 
Arianne from La Fil del La Mer soaps did an awesome video on rainbow soaps. She masterbatched her oils for the entire soap and mixed each color separately giving her all of the time she needed.
 
I have a terrible time pouring clean layers, they almost always break through at least a bit to the layer below (even when trying to let the lower layer settle/pour on top of a spoon, etc). When I am doing them that is not such a big deal b/c it is part of a swirl technique, but if I wanted to get really clean layers - as I assume you do here - I might give the lower layers more time to set up between pours, especially if you are going to do "batchlets".
 
Depends on if you want straight lines between the layers (I see the small joke in there for a LGBT soap), or if you want more of a curve or swoop in the colors of the soap. If you want more of a curve, you can do a tiger stripe or pour down the walls of the mold, alternating from side to side so the soap doesn't break through layers. Pouring down the sides of the mold will help layer it.

If you don't want to separate and do several batchlets (I love that term), then I would use a recipe with lard and non-pomace OO as the bulk of the oils and soap RT. Have all your colors premixed and ready to go. After you get emulsion, pour out your separate amounts into their own containers and then stir in the colors. It pays to work quickly and efficiently. If the soap needs more stirring to get to light trace, then you can or use a frother to help out. Make sure you are using an FO that does not accelerate at all. And don't panic. Just keep working as quickly as you can.

I have been doing some soaps with low and high water in the same batch. I've made 5 or 6 batches now. Every single time, the part with higher water traces much faster than the part with low water. I've been doing it over and over because that is not the standard experience with trying to keep your recipe open for a longer period of time so I've tried everything I can think of that might affect it. Every single time, I've had the same result. The low water stays fluid for far longer than the full water. SO I don't know what to say about the water content.
 
Newbie, that reminds me of a slogan from the 80's, "straight but not narrow", always liked it. Ozark, hope your soaps come out as straight and not narrow (or just the right amount of narrowness) as you want them to be :)
 
Has anyone tried to make an LGBT soap with the six colors, probably using the tall skinny mold?

If you have, can you give me a hint as to what recipe to use so I have time to pour all six colors before it turns into cement? LOL! :grin:
My son loves rainbows. I have made rainbow soaps for him, including one that used 12 layers - each color poured twice. My go-to recipe is high in lard and uses moderate amounts of olive oil, too, and it moves so slowly that after dividing the soap and stirring in colorants, I had to stick blend all six for a few additional bursts to get it thick enough to do what I wanted.

In general, for rainbows or anything else that uses several different colors, I soap cool (<100F), use plenty of lard and/or olive and/or avocado oil, and only get the soap emulsified before dividing it for colors. You might get away with a thin trace, but beyond that and you'll have trouble before you're done pouring your layers.

Oh, and use a very forgiving, well-behaved fragrance. Not the place for florals, spices, etc. I have used citrus scents for rainbow soaps primarily.
 
I have been doing some soaps with low and high water in the same batch. I've made 5 or 6 batches now. Every single time, the part with higher water traces much faster than the part with low water. I've been doing it over and over because that is not the standard experience with trying to keep your recipe open for a longer period of time so I've tried everything I can think of that might affect it. Every single time, I've had the same result. The low water stays fluid for far longer than the full water. SO I don't know what to say about the water content.

That's interesting! I wonder why that is.

Terry
 
In general, for rainbows or anything else that uses several different colors, I soap cool (<100F), use plenty of lard and/or olive and/or avocado oil, and only get the soap emulsified before dividing it for colors. You might get away with a thin trace, but beyond that and you'll have trouble before you're done pouring your layers.

Oh, and use a very forgiving, well-behaved fragrance. Not the place for florals, spices, etc. I have used citrus scents for rainbow soaps primarily.

I made a dog soap yesterday that was pretty slow moving and it had olive and avocado oils in it. It also had jojoba oil in it. It uses a bunch of essential oils.

But I think I like the idea of "batchlets", to be on the safe side. I've ordered a tall and thin mold and I can already see a problem pouring individual colors in a deep mold like that.

Terry
 

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