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I use the SFIC clear glycerin M&P base and I wrap it up and heat seal it as soon as it has hardened. My question is, what would you say the "shelf life" of this base is? I have bars that I made a year ago that still use and they still lather great. But what would be the optimum "used by" time...

This is more time consuming, but you could try pouring a series of thin layers. Pour the first layer, let it harden, then spritz with alcohol and pour a second layer, let that one harden, etc. until your mold is filled. This works well for me with glitter, which tended to settle at the bottom...

I've had this problem in the past. I believe it took about 3 to 4 weeks for the discoloration to show up in my soaps, but I've used other fragrance oils that discolored almost instantly. I had a few questions about this myself, and was hoping some experience folks could elaborate. What exactly...

Oh my! Glad I asked :) I had a feel there was something to do with dissolvability and gentleness on skin. Soap glitter it is then.

Great suggestions, thanks Tienne. I'll have a look around and see if I can find something cheaper

I've always used glitter that is specifically marked as "for use in soap". But I wonder, is there truly a difference between "soap glitter" and regular old craft glitter? Or am I just being swindled out of a couple extra bucks?

I wrap mine up in cling wrap as well. I've used Glad brand which works well, now I am using the food service prep stuff from Sam's Club, comes in a big roll like mentioned above, with a nice cutter. I've never tried using a hair dryer, but I imagine it would work just fine. I use a heat gun ($20...

I'm thinking of making a small bar with an embed in the middle. If I color the embed with a non-bleeding colorant, but I color the soap around the embed with a liquid colorant, will the liquid colorant bleed into the embed? I imagine it wouldn't matter much if the embed was dark blue and the...

I agree with twinmom. You can do a lot with simple Avery labels, and there is a template for every size/shape label they sell. Depending on your computer aptitude, you can add text and graphics and anything you like, then just print them out.

I fill mine with super hot water from the faucet and let them sit for a bit. The stuck-on soap with turn into a squishy blob and fall right out

haha I love experiements too :) They were high quality pictures, so I am sure the soaps were black. I ditched the Buttercream & Snickerdoodle fragrance oil (and don't plan to ever use it again) so no experiements with that one. I do experiement with all my fragrances in clear and colored soap...

That's what I was thinking, Genny. I tested this fo a while back, and I saw that it turns brown/tan, so I know what that looks like and I expected that. But these were completely black, like nothing I've ever seen before. And they were the same black in multiple different colors, including...

I used the clear glycerin SFIC base from Elements B&B, liquid colorants from Elements and Buttercream & Snickerdoodle fragrance oil from BrambleBerry

I made a set of small soaps (each about one ounce) with clear M&P base, and I added liquid colorant (red, blue, yellow, pink and green) and fragrance to each one. I sent them to my customer, and about a month later, I got a message from them that the soaps had turned BLACK. They sent along a...

Awesome! Thanks so much for the info Seifenblasen.

I bought some "felting wool" from Michaels and made my first felted soap. I was a little disappointed because it smells like... well... sheep :) and there were twigs and leaves in the wool! I obviously don't want my soap to smell like a petting zoo, and I'm assuming it would be rather unpleseant...

hm... since it gets better when you pour slowly, have you tried pouring maybe 1/2 or 3/4 and letting it set up completely, then pouring the rest?

Sounds very weird. I would ask what type/shape of mold are you using? And since you mentioned bubbles, do you know to spray the surface with rubbing alcohol after you pour?

@Chay - I've heard that wire cutters don't work well with M&P. The M&P I get is very hard, I would be hesitant to try cutting it with a wire cutter @lsg - Sounds like it could work, I'll give that a try.

I've never used this particular type of mold, but I do have a few plastic molds that have small intricate designs that can be tricky to wash. I hand wash all my molds, and I start by holding them under super hot running water. Then I take a clean sponge and scrub a little, then back under the...