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I have purple raspberry from MMS. It's water soluble, and VERY potent. I only use it for solid color soaps, because no matter how little I use, it bleeds. I'm going to have to try peacock blue, it sounds wonderful. I mixed a new soap using ultramarine and cobalt as a swirl, and they were...

Wow! I'm sorry that happened. I've never had a soap color get more intense. I wish we could balance each other out. :) I do have a yellow that is really powerful, no matter how little pigment I use, it's always too much.

I made a blue soap using ultramarine pigment, and it was a beautiful dark blue. I don't do CPOP, by the way. Then I did a soap with cobalt pigment. It was a nice rich blue during the pour, and the next day it became a pastel blue. It's still pretty, but not the ocean color I was hoping for...

@cmzaha I don't understand why you'd erase your answer. (I still see the one I thought you had erased) I also don't understand why you told me my recipes aren't soaps that your nor your customers would use, that seemed a bit unnecessary. I wasn't asking for feedback on my recipes, and I would...

Okay! Progress! I made an embed using the new recipe, and salt, and it unmolded beautifully. MMS's "Ocean Blue" is more Forest Green. I made a beautiful swirled soap loaf, then had to dump it all back in the pot when I realized I forgot to add the FO. It's still a pretty color, so I made some...

Thanks for all the helpful feedback! DeAnna, that was a really great explanation. To follow up, I didn't post my recipe because I was more interested in understanding hardness, longevity, etc than in my actual recipe. I made a new one based on feedback, and I'm trying that out today. The old...

Hi! Although my searches are providing fascinating knowledge, I can't seem to find answers to my questions. I was under the impression that adding salt would create a harder bar, but the beta soampaking friend doesn't change the bar hardness value when I include salt in the recipe. Hardness and...

Oh, I have also thought of this! I was dreaming of a real gypsy vardo that I could take to fairs and markets.

I think I may have found the problem: I don't usually make soap when it's winter because it's so difficult to keep the oils liquid. I think that even though I warmed the oils, I was working at or below 100F. I have to start getting my inventory curing for opening the farmstand for the season...

I'll have to get photos after my "expansion". My Xmas gift from my guy was an additional countertop and shelf underneath for soapmaking. I use our farmstand kitchen for soapmaking (and vegetable/egg washing, herb drying, nuking a lunch) and I have about 4' of countertop with shelves on which...

Thanks for the feedback! I keep my lye solution in an emptied, clean gallon jug that previously had olive oil in it. I know there's no residual oil, as I've refilled the jug with the lye solution a few times already. Also, now that I remember, I had gotten some soap batter on my hand while...

Just recently I started using premixed lye solution (1:1) I had some solution left over from December and used it in my latest batch, but my soap which usually hardens after 1 day is still soft and oily after 5 days. This is something I've never experienced in the past. So I'm wondering if the...

Thanks for all your input. From your responses, it seems my disappointment with my colors is not related to my oils. I'll try some other things then.

Good morning! For those of you who have made soap with and also without palm oil, what differences have you noticed with colorants, if any? Have you noticed any other differences? I want to stay palm free, but I have soap envy and I wonder if this is a factor. I've never used palm. Thanks!

Hi! Sorry for the delay responding to you. The soap is 6 weeks old. It did not morph back as of yet.

Hi! Forgive me (and point me in the right direction) if this question is already answered. I made a beautiful bright yellow soap dough, mica & titanium dioxide for colorant. I extruded it and added the yellow embeds to a light blue (titanium dioxide and a little BB lab color) and blueberry...

Hi, I'm following up. I got my BB supplies, I read Scientific Soapmaking (a very good reference, by the way) and was very careful to note the conditions of each of my experiment soaps. The end result is that for the longest fluid working time, the oils and lye solution should be at around 80°...

I bought my pomace OO from Bulk Natural Oils, I had better luck with the OO from BJ's when I could get the one labelled "pure" OO. TBH I don't see how BJ's/Costco and grocery store would differ that much in having "blended" OO. I would think you would need to pay attention to labels at both...

I'm confused. She's using storebought OO which is discouraged, and it is taking a long time to trace. The only thing I can see about accelerated trace is the reference to the SB. Did I miss something?

Yes I use the default setting, I'll try your suggestion. Since I have 2 pails of pomace OO to use up now.