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I have two 7pound iron blocks i keep in the oven at 150 f until i poor my soap in the mold I set the mold on the two blocks and cover with towels and plastic bags and all has worked good

soapers choice

if you are going to yellowstone park , where bears reside do not take a bath with that soap it may cost you your life

I used to mix the clay in with the lye water BUT, i had troubles, for one it expands in water , and i found when using Halloysite clay it would make little conglomerations, , I now mix my clays and feldspars in the soft oils heating them on low heat , 1st wisk them and then use a 100 mesh screen...

I would reduce the coconut oil to 5% and lift the olive oil to 50% and it will not be as drying,

I normally use a 5% super fat and found i could get very close to it without adding more lye, I have been using the soap and it feels very good on my skin, and it is great at washing dishes, to. and even with no fragrance oils the soap smells wonderful. , + the citric helps preserve the soap...

I had noticed that when i used my soap in the hot water it bubbles very well but in the untreated cold water it notably flat. and not so bubbly. so for the 1st time i tried citric acid in my soap , because i heard it will bind to the Lime ,Magnesium , Iron in the water . well i found this to be...

Hard water

O,K hear is the full recipe of my soap that can clean dishes 292.5 Olive oil, 195 coconut oil, 97.5 shea butter, 6.5 g Vee gum T, 32.5 Opticast kaolin, 26 g feldspar powdered 200 mesh, 83.80g lye, 146.5 water distilled, it is set up for a 5% discount I mix the Vee gum , and kaolinand...

tried 2% caster oil in a batch of soap and yes i could tell the difference, I think I am hooked now

I went off 650 grams of oil and clays sorry

ya i go by 640 grams of oils and clay additives then calculate the water and lye I need i use a two pound mold cold processes I mix the lye in when oils are about 120f and cover with insulation and let it cure

No , thats what i thought, I even went from the middle of the sap values of all oils and discounted 5% but in every trial i do on greasy pans with oil in them from frying it just eats it away leaves them nice and clean , forget dawn this is way better, and it does not take much

I used a super fat of 5% and 1.8 Water to 1 lye and dont use well water go get some distilled water , that bad water can cause all kinds of trouble in soap

Mobjack thats what I am thinking, the V gum T is colodial in size, actally a magnesium aluminum silicate , Bentonite but very clean, and it expands i think 16 times in volume when it gets whet, but the cool thing is because iI mixed it in the oils it does not get active untill the water hits it...

I have some simple and good hand soap I made , and it works great for that , leavs my hands clean and silky feeling , I decided to use it on my greasy dishes, and to my supersize it works better than Palmolive . I just take my scrubber and rub it on the bar of soap and then do the dishesthey...

I know lye takes up water from the atmosphere. and maybe carbon to , is it humid in your location? was the cap on tite,

yes i added the honey to the lye solution, big mistake I am a newbeeI may try the other way and drop the honey,a to recomendations, also on the batch that worked it has so much hard oils i was afraid it would get so hard it may crack when cutting with the knife so it came out of the mold at 8...

i recently made two soaps both have the same recipe exept one used 2% honey and one did notthe one with the honey became brittle and i could not cut it the one with out was just fine . I added the honey to the lye water and that caused the lye to heat up and just seemed like it was not going...

things like calcium and copper can cause it , do you use tap water ? somthing is oxidizing.