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Must be 91% or >. The lower dilutions don't seem to help as much.

This is very unlikely at this point since they are still seeking a buyer for the business and all its parts. Perhaps someone will buy SS and maintain its scent catalog.

Re: Southern Soapers See http://soapmakingforum.com/forum/viewto ... metics+act

Not including packaging, my different formulas are all under $1 per bar (even one that uses both shea and cocoa butter), but I'm trying to buy more in bulk to drive down costs.

Just bumping this to say that I think they anchor in patch.

Yay! Let us not forget that "soap" is a salt, too. :P

Did it get hotter than usual? I've heard of FO/EOs beading up, but tasting salty... don't know about that.

For best results with a 'poo bar, you really should look into syndets instead.

It's not exclusive to melt and pour. It's used there to break surface tension so that embeds and layers will not separate. In CP, it's used to prevent formation of ash.

Yes, you can use canola from the grocery. It's believed that canola is more likely to result in soaps that get DOS so a lot of people shy away from it, but others love it. I wouldn't use more than 20% in a given batch if you decide to use it. The fresher the oil, the less likely/longer it...

Yes, dreaded orange spots.

Maybe... but probably not. Usually milk is considered an additive and so no SAP value is calculated for it. Am I correct in understanding that you still used the appropriate amount of lye for the oils in the batch? If so, the only difference is that you may want to let it cure a bit longer so...

Do you use a pH meter? pH test strips will not give an accurate read with soap.

I'm with carebear. I don't agree with most of what your post says about rebatching. For instance, "extra fluid" isn't always added when rebatching. Whether any fluid is added at all is dependent on the soap being rebatched, its age, etc. With respect to molds, I think most will see the...

The answer really depends on the specific EOs in question. Most people I know dump citrus after a year. MDL is right about storage. Amber or violet glass is the best. I don't know that I would refrigerate all EOs as there are some that will crystallize when the temp gets too cold, but a...

Cosmetic grade and skin-safe aren't necessarily the same thing. As long as it's skin-safe, it's fine. Some micas, for instance, are both, but not recommended in soap because of morphing, etc.

I'm sorry, was there a question attached to your post? In any event, I've used OBN, and haven't had problems with their oils, waxes, butters, etc, but haven't purchased the preblended. Some people have raised concerns about this type of masterbatching since you don't know the exact proportions...

If you get anywhere close to pH 8, true soap typically turns to sludge.

Except that in actual soap making, soap made with hydrogenated soy is less likely/takes longer to get DOS than un-hydrogenated soy oil. Liquid soybean oil gives many people DOS issues.

I believe one of the key ingredients is anise, but maybe someone who's made it before will be able to help you out.