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This is a planner for soap makers. It has over 50 design and log pages. So room for 50 different soaps. There’s also a section at the back with conversion tables, reference charts, usage guides and troubleshooting...

Has anyone added SCI to their soap after the cook in hot process?

We got off lightly, but my sister is still without power. Feel for her, cause she has two under 3. Must be terrible being without power for so long. Hope everyone else in NZ is safe!

Thanks everyone! Isn't this a great place? I've spent so much time browsing and reading through the forums. <3

Thanks! <3

You can still use the micas from AliExpress, just test them in soap first, so you know what to expect. (There is the issue of not knowing what they used to dye the micas with though)

In that case see if you can find glyceryl stearate to add.

Definitely needs to be re-rendered again, like the others said. And don’t worry about the smell. I used very piggy smelling pork lard, and no trace of that stinky smell was left in the soap!

Another trick to brighten your colours is to add a little titanium dioxide to it. I did it with my Jack Frost soap because I wanted the blue to be a pale blue and still be bright. And the blueberry soap needed it because the blue was full otherwise.

Did you heat the oil phase enough? It has to be at least 50 C or 122 F. I would add glyceryl stearate to help stabilise the emulsion. And maybe use poly 60 instead of 80, that could work too.

Adding to what everyone else has already suggested: use slow moving oils (I love using a Castile recipe for colour work), don’t use a water discount, soap at cool temperature, and check your fragrance doesn’t accelerate. And work fast! Have everything prepared and ready!

Like others said, I would use the fresh plant or juice. I would discount the water in the lye solution to the amount of fresh product or juice used, but instead of adding it to the lye, I will add it to the soap at trace. Here’s a soap I made substituting nearly half of the water used in the...

Best way to swirl is different temperatures, like the others mentioned above. I don’t bother with thermometers and exact temperatures though. I simply pour one part of the MP into my mold, let it cool and even form a skin on top. And then melt the contrasting MP and drop it in from various...

I used to add my honey to the lye and it turned a really dark colour like you experienced. Nowadays I tend to add it to thin trace. It gives a paler coloured bar.

I’m not a hobbyist, but I don’t sell my soaps either. I make quite a bit of soap for my blog (tutorials) and I always have tons of soaps. Because I don’t want to sell, for various reasons, I donate my soap to charities. Last Christmas I gave soaps to the Salvation Army to put in their Christmas...

Hi everyone! I’m Jackie from In My Soap Pot. Just wanted to say hi and introduce myself. I’m a kiwi soap maker (from New Zealand) and I’ve been making soap for over 20 years, probably closer to 30 now. I’ve been teaching soap making for the past 15 years, mostly at community education schools...