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My soap lab is pretty cold these days (we have cold temperature in Québec!) and it must be the reason. Merci!

I have adopted this method a while ago and I found it very practical. However, this time, when I opened my jar to use my lye solution, it was like a thick jelly. I must have done something wrong, but I can't figure what. Did you ever experience something like that? Do you think my lye is still...

My recipe was: 50% lard (in fact, it was wild boar fat, as my friend breeds boars and gives me the fat) 23% coconut oil 23% olive oil 4% castor. Soaps were hard (INS 157), but after a while using them, they became all «glue glue» and very soft in the soap dish. Maybe I didn't let them cure...

I would like to avoid palm oil in my soaps for ecological reasons, but I find it hard to replace. I've tried avocado oil and lard, but don't get a very firm bar. Any ideas?

I really liked this one : Sun Ripened Strawberry Fragrance Oil 139 and I'm picky ;-) I doesn't smell like jam, but nice sweet strawberry.

Similar thing happened to me once. I looked in «The Soap Maker Companion» (Susan Miller Cavitch's book) and it seems that it may have two causes: temperature too low when mixing lye and oils or insufficient stirring. In both case, the result is an incomplete saponification. In my case, I think...

How can we test the pH of a solid soap bar with it? If i soak a peic of soap in water, is the water going to change the pH?

Hello all, My pH stripes are running out and I'm considering investing in a digital pH meter. I need it for soap, lotion, cream, shampoo, etc. After some research, I'm still not sure if it worths the money. Anyone using one? If so, what do you think? Thanks for your answer!

I think it should work better if you lower the temp. You can keep the shea: my basic recipe is 30% palm, 25% coco, 30% olive, 5% castor and 10% shea. It's great: good SAP value and hard soap. Beeswax is not necessary to get hard soap. Good luck with your trials!

Since the melting point of beeswax is higher than oils, it can accelerate the trace because the higher the temp of your oils is, the faster is the trace. Be sure to cool down your mix at 40 C (at least) before put in the lye. Try to make your cp soap at room temp: I found that it slows the...

I tried BTMS and it's great: leves a nice silky touch, not greasy. I mixed ti with 1/4 of Polawax and the emulsion is very stable.

What's the difference between the two BTMS?

I always use Polawx, it works great, but I'm looking for a lighter emulsifier: Polawax is a bit greasy. What about Olivem? And Ecomulse? Is it as easy to use as Polawax? Is it light?

Butter EZ! Seems great: http://www.lotioncrafter.com/butterez-trade.html Thank for the tip.

My first attempt to make a lip balm was not succesfull: at the begining, it was ok, but after a while, the balm was grainy. Someone told me it was because of the sea butter. Any idea on what my problem was? My recipe was similar to the one mentioned before.

I bought my water proof labels at Online Lables. Service is good, fast. My glossy water proof labels work well. But the template does'nt match exactly with the lables (sometimes, my logo is a bit outside the box when I print). The companie also offers a software to custumize your one lables...

For me, it's Stormy night, at WSP: everybody seems to like it. Me too!

Thank you. I will try it. Think I'm ready for a little order at WSP.

Hi everybody, I was asked to make a cranberry soap (cp), but I didn't find a good fragrance yet. Anyone tested something realistic and good in a cp recipe?