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LJA is completely right ... for some reason I can't use high CO soaps .. they dry me out ... but I'm fine with salt bars. You have to use a high % of CO, otherwise you won't get any kind of lather at all (yeah that was a disaster ... lol).

LOL @ the manicure ... that rocks !! Do you have one of those hot wax things for your hands and feet? Maybe that would help??

Deda, that stinks!! I hate when that happens; oh well, lesson learned; take care of those hands lady!!!

I think the easiest candle item for me to start with would be container candles. I'm looking at Soy Paraffin blends at WSP, namely IGI 6006; the reason being is because they can handle 10% FO which is more than the other waxes. Does anyone one have any input or advice as far as which container...

Thanx so much NancyJo; I got The Everything Candle Making Book. It was rather informative, but now I'm left with even more questions.

I'd like to start making candles to add another product to my line. I was wondering if any of you could recommend a good book for beginners.

If the soap is too thin when you start to pour, just give a couple minutes and let it thicken up before you start to do your surface swirl.

If you aren't at trace it could separate. I've never had that happen, but it could. If everything's well combined and mixed up, chances are you'll just have to wait a while longer to unmold.

I'd leave it covered. If you don't have any alcohol, I wouldn't worry about it.

I leave it on the oven top. After you pull it out, spritz with alcohol to prevent ash. It's usually ready to cut in the morning. I don't think it would matter either way. It's probably just personal preference like a lot of things in soap making.

I got those bowls at a yard sale !! Godiva, I mix for a few minutes with my whisk, pull the batter out like shown, and then hit everything with a SB before going to town and haven't had problems. It truly is a learning process; I was queen of soap on a stick until I figured out when to...

Yes, ITP is in the pot. There are two ways that I do ITP. 1) I pour the different colors in from various heights and then stir around the pot once and pour into the mold or 2) I just pour in from various heights and dump into the mold letting the movement of the soap do the work. Either way I...

The key to swirling is separating out early on. The second key is being ready to go so that if your soap decides it wants to misbehave, you can move at super speed. Here's how I set my kitchen up; you can't see in the deep bowls, but I have my colorants pre-mixed and everything's ready to go...

Deda, Thanx for the link ... I've been shopping with Scent Works for awhile. They're in my state so shipping is reasonable and their silk prices are good too. Big plus for the cruelty free; I didn't even know they had silk!! You rock.

yeppers .. and it does result in a nice brownish/tan color

I agree with Lindy .. the harder the bar, the longer it lasts. If you have a softer soap, a soap bag is a great alternative because you can even use the mush/slivers.

Ditto the toast :oops:

Next time try using a high FP fragrance and scenting at 1.2 oz per PPO ... salt bars gel at or over 120 F so the extra fragrance will help

Your soaps are absolutely wonderful!! I love the mood theme and the packaging is absolutely beautiful.

Online labels has excellent products; I order from them all the time. However, I wanna let you know that their inkjet "waterproof" labels are not waterproof or oil proof. I used them to label some of my scrubs and body washes and the ink ran off .. I haven't tried the poly. laser labels, but...