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You can make expedient gels using Elmer's Glue-All (or cheaper brand of "white glue", i.e. PVA/PVOH glue) and borax. Search for recipes for "goop" or "gak". I've worked with poly(vinyl alcohol + vinyl acetate) starting from scratch, and it can take a lot of doing to dissolve. A lot easier...

Is a 2-layer product acceptable at least for your own use? There've even been commercial products like that. There was Twice As Nice shampoo + conditioner, and there've been bath additives too. Typically the 2-layer product was kept in a screw-capped bottle which the user mixed by inverting...

It doesn't, as I've explained in at least a couple places. This is a rumor that's gotten around a lot, but makes no sense.

That'd work, but there are some steps short of that that'd probably work as well. If you can not only use a metal spoon, but position it over the mouth of the plastic container after you unscrew the lid as you just start to slide the lid toward the other side, it should attract the charged lye...

I did. That's what I referred to above as the waxes and steroids. That's true, but of the various materials in this recipe, there will be a great deal of overlap in the minor constituents brought in by those ingredients, and also overlap between them and the major base oils, chiefly olive...

And I would say 50-50 is near the high end in terms of alkali for quality products when it comes to laundry. It's a pretty good compromise when you want something for scrubbing stains out of the sink (in which case you could go even higher in Na2CO3) that you could also use for laundry, but for...

Glycerine is glycerine, no matter how it gets there, and it's a humectant. The only reason you think of it as a particular problem with M&P soaps is that they have more glycerine than kettle process soaps do, so it's harder to deal with moisture problems in the former. It's just a matter of...

Probably not all together like that. You can look up the fatty acid content of those and see that there's probably a lot of redundancy. It's possible that some have other minor constituents (such as waxes (giving you fatty alcohols) and steroids) that might be of value separately, but not...

Not only that, but it produces more glycerine than other oils, and glycerine draws moisture, which contributes to the dampness of your soap.

Make liquid soap, then mix it with the shaved solid goat milk soap.

You might try complaining to the packer. I don't think that much static charge is produced merely by the contents rubbing against the container. They need to ground the equipment it was packed on.

Actually even then, if it's a material that excludes water, mere contact with water won't cause spoilage.

Fortunately the search tool here made this one fairly easy. That's not always the case! I pulled down "advanced search" from the menu, key word "preservative", and selected "titles only": http://www.soapmakingforum.com/search.php?searchid=341560 You can repeat that with other words such...

Actually, no water so it spoils never. The tea's dried so although it contains traces of moisture, its water activity is too low to sustain life.

For purposes of electricity, same type. Can I assume the polypropylene dish is sitting on the pan of a balance? That wouldn't do much good to bleed the charge off the granules of lye. They don't conduct electricity well enough. You'd have to stir the wire around in the lye for a long time...

Know how sugar makes syrups? That's how it's working. It makes a solution of it in water more viscous, meaning more resistant to flow. Therefore it makes the liquid of a bubble take longer to drain down. One of the common ways to measure the stability of a watery foam is its drainage time...

It can still be static electricity. Grounding yourself doesn't help because the container you're pouring from isn't electrically conductive. The humidity of the surrounding air doesn't matter because it's what's inside the bottle that counts. Of course you don't want humidity in the bottle...

Not sure how pure you need it, but cheap cat litter is mostly to entirely bentonite.

But you still haven't given us the info on what's in that antiperspirant. So, if I have the sequence of events right, you wash, rinse, and dry your armpits, and then they immediately feel sticky, and then you apply antiperspirant and they immediately stop feeling sticky? That would seem to...

Now I'm really curious! What could there possibly be in yours that's not in Dial? The unsaponifiables, maybe.