There is no substitute for doing your own tests. If you plan on selling, you need to explain to customers why your product works better than alternatives.
The sodium sulfate is added to dry detergents to keep them flowing. I can't think of anything that it will contribute to a bar of soap...
I use tallow in the 30 to 40% range. Before changing the oils, I would start is by changing the superfat. I would increase it by 1 to 3% and compare. Oils are a natural product that can vary from lot to lot. The 5% superfat is never really 5% because the lye and the oils have a built in...
To add to what everybody else said: what do you think happened to the rust resistant coating when you put it in a bleach bath? You need to think about the materials you use and the impact of every step of the process on their performance. The tins were a bad idea for something with high water...
If you decide to do this, do it on a small scale in a well ventilated space and wear protection particularly for the face just in case what you have is not EDTA.
I don't have disodium EDTA but I have the acid form. I measured 23 g of the acid EDTA (fine powder) and added 50g of water and got...
You got it. If you add enough NaOH to the di EDTA, you end up with the tetra. You can even add KOH. It isn't any different than neutralizing citric acid or vinegar with NaOH before adding it to the rest of the soaping lye.
You can get the pH right if you add NaOH slowly and allow the EDTA...
Somebody needs to take the pH of this slurry. pH paper is fine. You just need to know which neighborhood you're in (around 5 or around 10). Slurry is what you get when you use the acid form of EDTA. It is what I use most of the time. If the slurry is acidic and assuming an honest mistake by...
The acid form takes a lot of NaOH to neutralize. It will significantly raise the superfat. Dissolve it separately to get it to the right pH (around 8 or 9 will be fine) and then add it to the lye.
The image on your link said tetrasodium EDTA. If that is what they sent you, you shouldn't...
If you got the acid form instead of one of the EDTA salts, you'll have to add NaOH to neutralize it to get it to dissolve. You can use a pH paper to check the pH. If it is around 4 or 5, you have the acid form.
Check your supplier to see what you actually bought. The acid form is fine...
I'm with you on the WT&G. It's the only WT&G of the ones I tested that sticks. The oil is blueish but it soaps without discoloration. I also poured it mixed with BB Neroli. I'm not sure why you're smelling so much dirt in the rest of their FOs. I love Jungle. I have Imogen Rose and I like...
Nsmar, I'm sorry your soaps didn't turn out but really glad you're updating your reviews. Are you doing HP or CP? Also, did you get new FO bottles from them or are you testing the original bottles you have? There was a post on the Craftserver about RE where one or 2 people bought larger...
I'm going to recommend FragranceBuddy. His BRV is strong with no to very soft yellow discoloration depending on the oils used. It lasts forever and a day. It is very strong when first poured at 4% but softens nicely with a long cure. At 18 months, it smells like sweet berries you want to...
What Navigator said. My large loaf mold holds about 6 Kg and I just wrap it with towels and a wool blanket and leave it alone. It warms up on its own even when soaping cool. The saponification reaction generates enough heat to reach gel without external heat. The concentration of the lye...