Recent content by Kiwi2:)

Simply gorgeous - love the blues in the first two 👏

Hi - I have a short hair feline companion with a very luxurious coat, who shares with us all as well! I wipe down the area and vacuum, etc before I soap (in our laundry) and she's excluded from that area. Then when the soaps are curing they go into a plastic tiered kitchen trolley, covered...

Hi there - I do make and sell shrink-wrapped bath bombs Down Under and I would love to try the National Shrinkwrap system but just can't justify the cost (yet). So I have a small impulse sealer and a craft heatgun and use polyolefin (the one that NS recommend for soaps). I mostly make round...

Hmm - you could be right about Super Creamy -I think the soaps made with the S100 are harder. Have just bought 5kgs of pure soy from The Sourcery (15% discount nothing to sneeze at! ;) That seems harder than the SC soy so I'll see how that soaps! :)

Hi - oh dear! That was the soy wax I found :( I have used the S100 when I couldn't get anything else (I usually use super creamy soy wax from NZ Candle Supplies) but I'm only using soy at 7% so perhaps the effect wasn't so pronounced in my batches. Looking back at my notes I did note that it...

Hey there :) Do you use a surfactant like SLSA in your bath bombs? If you do then that should prevent any ring from forming without using P80. (If you're only using mica decoratively and not to actually colour the whole bath bomb that is). I use mica/RA to colour cocoa butter embeds and use...

Hiya - I've tried this in my CP and it works out fine - 100% soy - and it's still in stock!! :) https://www.candlecreations.co.nz/product/soy-wax-seasons-s100/

Hi Leahmarie - I've been making bath bombs for several years and I'm wondering whether you are using FD & C lakes or dyes to colour your bath bombs, or if you are using micas? I use lakes / dyes for a beautiful vibrant colour both in the bath bomb and in the tub - I'm in New Zealand but...

Hi there - I'm interested in this issue too - biodegradability is a big issue here in New Zealand also :) I found that cellulose cellophane was a pretty good alternative for my bar products and cupcakes, etc. It is able to be heat sealed, is nicely transparent (slight yellow tinge but not...

Hi there - I try to offer mostly vegan soaps too :) and we are palm-free also. I had the same problem in that my bars are hard but I wanted to increase the longevity (haven't had the problem with rinse-off though). I have started adding a small amount of soy wax to my recipe (fully...

:) Thank you! I consider myself to be a newbie too :) So much to learn...notice my fail at a pencil line in the honey soap haha - btw I think that it doesn't matter if you use more rather than less in terms of the size of the "pinch" as long as it dissolves you're all good ;)

Hi - Have you tried Australian Red Reef Clay? (I believe there is also a French Red Clay but I haven't tried that one). I used that for the first time recently and got both a rich red (scant 1/2 tsp clay dispersed in a tiny bit of water to half a cup of batter) and a really pretty pink (mixed...

Hi there- So sorry I missed responding to this earlier - I work in metric but I agree with atiz in terms of volume / pound :) I reserved a small amount of water and blended manuka honey powder, aloe vera powder and goat milk powder together then added it to the oils before adding the lye...

I love this deo - (thanks to the guys here for the inspiration!!) - tried a few tweaks to the original babassu/magnesium hydroxide mix and have added a combination of cetyl alcohol / emulsifying wax NF / castor wax (fully hydrogenated castor oil) to give me the texture/glide/skin feel that I was...

Hi there - Could I suggest you could try powdered aloe vera concentrate? The concentrate I use is 200x so the amount used is actually super tiny - I think WSP have Crafters Choice 100x powder (1/2 oz for $9.60). Also it has a year shelf life - I always store it with a desiccant sachet though...