Recent content by Gerry

Looks like my recipe. :think: Haha! I go for 20% OO and 60% lard, but otherwise it's spot on identical to my most common base recipe. I was making 100% lard bars for a friend a few years ago. We had a falling-out, so I had a bunch of bars left that I decided to start using lately. Suds...

Just watched the video and yes, I use a very similar technique - layering against the wall of a tilted loaf mold after pouring in the base color. What I did though was layer first black-orange-black-orange...etc., then a thicker layer of the base color, then black-emerald...

I cut this today after making it last night. I'm working with my favorite sandalwood FO which unfortunately accelerates a bit so being quick is necessary. I ran out of TD, so I've been experimenting with designs without it until my order arrives. The colors are really off on my cellphone...

I round my grams. If it calls for 2066.7 grams of lard, I go for 2067. But seriously, I don't think rounding by ounce is a great idea, unless your batches are like 50 pounds of soap. Being off by 14 or 15 grams can be pretty significant with small batches, especially if you're measuring lye.

You can buy ultramarine blue at any soap or cosmetic supply store. I bought mine from a Canadian online company that sells just over half a pound for about $20 Canadian. Half a pound is like a life-time supply for me considering its recommended usage rate is one teaspoon per 5 pounds of soap...

For the light shade I used 1 squirt, for the dark 3 squirts PPO! Haha I premix (masterbatch) all my colors with glycerin or OO. I just squirt it from my plastic squeeze bottles until the soap batter takes on the shade I want. UB goes a long way, so it doesn't take much. I wouldn't...

Smells tropical fruity, I kinda like it and it sticks really well too.

I have a FO called "Lick me all over", but I'd hesitate to name my soap after it. Haha!

I'd consider 30% to be my normal (high) water recipe. I soap pretty cool though. Usually I do 33% except for castile soap where I use 40% lye to water. I think the translucency of soap is more directly related to jelling and temperature rather than simply the amount of water. But soap jells...

The acids in these fruits are responsible for the whitening and exfoliating effect of their juices. Unfortunately these are completely neutralized by the lye, so no... those benefits would not be realized in cold process (or hot process) soap.

I did that once before too, and it's something I'll never forget! Sadly I was using a shallower container for my lye, and the next two hours involved cleaning up dark lye water from the counter and floor. I remember pouring the lye in and giving it a gentle stir and thinking "wow, is this...

UB is my favorite blue colorant, partly because of its price, but also because again it's predictable and makes a great mixing colorant to get other shades and colors. A little goes a long way. This is a simple in-the-mold spoon swirl I made yesterday and just cut this morning. There is...

Yeah it fully gelled and actually got a bit on the hot side. When I use oxides, especially without TD like in this case, I don't see much difference in the color of iron oxide if any between gelled and ungelled.

I really like the wispy trails effect of the pink into the white.

I've done more than 5%, added 3 tablespoons per kg. Keep in mind that overheating is a danger, so watch it. I add it to my cool lye water before adding the lye, and yes it turns brown. But I like the honey-brown it gives to honey soap. I use the bubble-wrap thing in a slab mold on the top...