Tips for White soap on purpose?

shop deals on amazon
MunbynSMF
Soapmaking Forum

Help Support Soapmaking Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Phteven

Phteven

Member
Joined
Dec 16, 2017
Messages
22
Reaction score
31
Location
S. King County, WA
After reading more and thinking, I would like to try making a soap that is black and white. It’s just for me and my family, so it doesn’t need to be perfect. I was thinking of using activated charcoal to help wit the black, and arrowroot for the white.

Does this sound like it would work? Any other recommendations for black and white.?

This will be my first CP batch.
 
I agree that using light oils will give you a nice white soap. I usually use a white mica if I need to get my base oils whiter and also sometimes use TD. Here are a couple of threads that might be helpful to you. Mintle is a talented soapmaker who I haven't seen around lately, but she shared a recipe for kaolin crème. And this reminds me that I want to try that.

http://www.soapmakingforum.com/showthread.php?t=58702&highlight=kaolin+creme

http://www.soapmakingforum.com/showthread.php?t=54784&highlight=kaolin+creme
 
Coconut oil, lard, and castor oil make a very white bar. Cold process with no gel and it is beautifully white. Hot process makes it somewhat translucent.
 
lsg said:
Coconut, white palm, palm kernel, lard, and rice bran oil, all make white bars.
Click to expand...
Interesting about the RBO I have never had a white bar from it, which is why I quit using it. Maybe it is just the brand I purchase at the restaurant supply. I do get pretty white bars with tallow, lard, coconut, sunflower or canola HO and castor
 
For those who use TiO2 in soaps to whiten - I've read, but never confirmed through relevant experiment, that "titatnium dioxide reduces lather and moisturizing significantly"* in CP soap.

Can anyone share their experience - agree or disagree (esp considering lather)?

*Anne L. Watson. Milk Soapmaking, pp. 25, Shepard Publications, Olympia WA, (2009).
 
I use TD, in all but one of my soaps and it doesn't reduce lather, also, soap does not moisturize as it's a wash on, wash off product.
 
Can I use cooking grade coconut oil n sunflower oil?? Or do I need to use something else??
 
Here in India.. Coconut oil is available in abununt variety.. For hair a different one. For cooking a different grade. N then lots available locally directly from the mill... Where it's freshly extracted.. I bought the cooking grade today..
Earlier I used the extracted oil.. Which went rancid I guess.. Few batches stink.
 
Dr.J said:
For those who use TiO2 in soaps to whiten - I've read, but never confirmed through relevant experiment, that "titatnium dioxide reduces lather and moisturizing significantly"* in CP soap.

Can anyone share their experience - agree or disagree (esp considering lather)?

*Anne L. Watson. Milk Soapmaking, pp. 25, Shepard Publications, Olympia WA, (2009).
Click to expand...

I have noticed absolutely no difference in the end result of soaps with TD vs soaps without.

I have noticed that my soap batter will sometimes thicken quicker when using TD vs. not using TD in my soaps.
 
I too use TD in a lot of batches and it does speed things up but never noticed a difference in lather. I suppose if you used an over abundance it might affect it and make the soap chalky.
 
While we r discussing Td I have a question.. I made a batch using td n split it into 2
One half I used for TD n papaya n the other half for charcoal n TD
Have a look at the pic.. The charcoal soap has cracked TD. Can someone please explain why
IMG_20171220_124711.jpg
 
isha said:
While we r discussing Td I have a question.. I made a batch using td n split it into 2
One half I used for TD n papaya n the other half for charcoal n TD
Have a look at the pic.. The charcoal soap has cracked TD. Can someone please explain why
Click to expand...

TD, if using full water, or liquid amount and gelling can sometimes cause what's known as "glycerin rivers" and that's what these are.
Or at least that's what these look like to me.
 
I usually mix TD in 1part TD to 2 parts distilled water. N then mix it.. Hope tats the correct way of mixing..
I guess the gelling made the difference.. I poured n cut both at the same time
 
I love a truly white bar of soap and a lot of these suggestions will help you get there. The one thing that I occasionally forget to consider is that so many FO’s will discolor, sometimes right away and sometimes during cure. It definitely pays to do your homework in advance...
 
isha said:
I usually mix TD in 1part TD to 2 parts distilled water. N then mix it.. Hope tats the correct way of mixing..
I guess the gelling made the difference.. I poured n cut both at the same time
Click to expand...

Yes it was probably due to the heat of gelling, especially when combined with high amounts of water. It can create what's known as "crackle" or "glycerin rivers". 2:1 water for mixing the TD seems reasonable, but what ratio are you using to dissolve your lye? Try that at 2:1 also. If you still have crackle, hold back some of the water from your lye solution and add your TD to that.
 

Similar threads

T
Strange spots showing up one week after soaping
Replies
4
Views
398
KiwiMoose
KiwiMoose
D
Need help making new soap.
Replies
3
Views
238
Mobjack Bay
Mobjack Bay
U
Adding Castor Oil at end of Hot process soap as superfat ?
Replies
13
Views
2K
user 58006
U
Rune
Should refined palm oil be odorless? Is mine rancid or not?
Replies
3
Views
936
Rune
Rune
A
Lye mixing containers
Replies
17
Views
840
Relle
Relle

Latest posts

Back
Top