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smeetree

smeetree

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I am finally starting to get pretty good at making cold process soap. So I wanted to step things up and try a clay soap. However, I don't even know the benefits of clay in soap. It's more that I just want to try it due to boredom as I need something new.

Can you guys explain (a) why clay (b) what do I need to consider when making clay soap vs standard cold process soap?

My usual batches are olive, coconut, and palm with some castor and almond oil. Last night I tried a .50 ounce lanolin addition since it's winter. We'll see how that turns out. But in general I use those oils and then one or two essential oils for scent. Then I always do the gel phase via insulating. So far after 14 batches I haven't had any partial gel or any issues. I'm afraid to try the freezer method because I use nice ingredients and fear partial gel.
Anyway, that's all a tangent. Just wondering if I do try clay what I'd have to alter.
 
Clay adds a nice slickness to the soap and some people claim its good for the skin. I find clays to be drying on my skin so I use just enough for coloring. Make sure you mix the clay into water and get all the lumps out. It won't cause any difficulties like acceleration so don't be afraid to play around.

Partial gel isn't that big of deal, with a nice cure the center circle will fade some and won't be so noticeable. It doesn't hurt the soap at all, no reason to fear harming your ingredients.
 
I add kaolin clay to my oils and mix well or will mix with EO/FO before adding to the oils. I think the kaolin adds slip to the soap. As far as color, I will add 1/2 tsp +/- ppo depending how much color I want and do 7-8% SF. Not had any problems with dryness and the color doesn't morph. I use Brazialian, French green, and rose clays. Hope this helps.
 
TeriDk said:
I add kaolin clay to my oils and mix well or will mix with EO/FO before adding to the oils. I think the kaolin adds slip to the soap. As far as color, I will add 1/2 tsp +/- ppo depending how much color I want and do 7-8% SF. Not had any problems with dryness and the color doesn't morph. I use Brazialian, French green, and rose clays. Hope this helps.
Click to expand...

So you don't add the clay after trace?
 
No, it would be really hard to mix clay in after trace, especially if you don't hydrate it first.

I use sea clay in one of my soaps. Hydrate it with a little water before I start making my soap, then I add it to my oils before I add the lye. You could add lye first and then the clay also.

If you're wanting to only color a portion of the soap with the clay, just mix until you reach emulsion, then add the clay so you have plenty of mixing room left.
 
I've only used clay a few times but I always add it at trace, it is hydrated of course and it mixes in just like any other additive.
 
Not hydrated, I'm sure you would have the same problem as TD... lots of spots/pockets etc. I find it lots easier to just mix with the oils so you can really get it mixed in well.
 
smeetree said:
So you don't add the clay after trace?
Click to expand...

I might be the only person who does....??

But, I don't just dump it in and stir....

I take a portion of the soap out, into a smaller bowl. I start with 1tbs, and I stick blend right into the portioned out soap. I don't have lumps either..... and I SB until its smooth.

Then I stir THAT into the big pot of traced soap....

That works for me..
 
Is french green clay good for cleaning in the shower, too, or just as shaving soap?
 
As a general rule, kaolin clay is less drying and is good for dry, sensitive skin and benonite is a more "drawing" clay, better suited to oily skin.
 

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