Calculating emulsifier in lotions.

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I have a super quick question...

To calculate ewax in a lotion its a simple mater of 25% of the oils/butters that you're using.

In another thread when reffering to cyclomethicone and dimethicone, Meganmischke said:

Though you add cones in the cool down, they are counted as a oil to emulsify. If you are having separation you need to look at you ewax/emulsifier amount and likely add more.

Do you also put fragrance oil into your equation? For that matter does anything non-water souluable (optiphen plus for example) get counted in?
 
No, you do not need to include your fragrance in your oil to calculate your emulsifiers (and since you are usually using around 1% in leave-on products it won't make a huge difference anyway).

Optiphen is water soluble.

Yes, you do need to consider other oil-soluble ingredients, such as stearic acid or cetyl alcohol, and any silicones when you calculate your emulsifier. To emulsify silicones, though, I would recommend using at least part BTMS-50 in your product as it is really the best for that.

As for the 25% of your oils, when using ewax I would round up just to be on the safe side. For instance, if I had a total of 25g of oils, I would need 6.25g of ewax, but I would round that up to at least 6.5 and as high as 7g. For BTMS-50 you may be able to get away with a little less but it's a good guideline.

HTH
 
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